Bearings...

[The bashist]

Wondering which are better and for what conditions. Avid racing or Fast Eddie Bearings? Or maybe another alternative brand..

 

[Notorious J]

Wondering which are better and for what conditions. Avid racing or Fast Eddie Bearings? Or maybe another alternative brand..

Both are good. There's also Jim's bearings which you can find on Facebook or Ebay. Any quality rubber sealed set works, as long as you do some routine maintenance. I own at least one set from all three.

 

[WoodiE]

@The bashist I'm biased because Eddy is a personal friend of mine that I've known for many years in addition he also happens to sell some incredible bearings for a more than reasonable price. He's also a Vendor here on ArrmaForum and has donated a number of bearing kits for giveaways. So I'll recommend him over the others.

But honestly Fast Eddy, Avid and Boca all make great bearings. So you won't be making a mistake going with either of them. Check out all three of them, find out which has the best deal at the time and buy them.

 

[Krathead]

@The bashist I'm biased because Eddy is a personal friend of mine that I've known for many years in addition he also happens to sell some incredible bearings for a more than reasonable price. He's also a Vendor here on ArrmaForum and has donated a number of bearing kits for giveaways. So I'll recommend him over the others.

But honestly Fast Eddy, Avid and Boca all make great bearings. So you won't be making a mistake going with either of them. Check out all three of them, find out which has the best deal at the time and buy them.

For basically the same the price this is a great reason to buy from Eddie over the others.

 

[JT58]

Sorry to hijack the thread... but what’s the benefit of ceramic bearing vs the regular sealed ones?

 

[Notorious J]

Quick tutorial
https://www.bocabearings.com/bicycle-bearing-tips-tutorials/bike-ceramic-bearings-8-things-to-know

 

[JT58]

Quick tutorial
https://www.bocabearings.com/bicycle-bearing-tips-tutorials/bike-ceramic-bearings-8-things-to-know

Interesting! I wonder how much benefit there is for a casual basher to go ceramic considering they’re 3-4x the cost.

 

[WoodiE]

Interesting! I wonder how much benefit there is for a casual basher to go ceramic considering they’re 3-4x the cost.

Zero.

Some will argue that putting ceramic in your motor or gearing will help and maybe it does, but reguardless it's only a tiny fraction.

Even most any place that sells ceramic will tell you that. Ceramic bearings are a tiny bit lighter and provide a bit less friction. Ceramic bearings provide the top tier racers that tenth of a second better laps. That tenth of a second against other top tier drivers can make a difference.

Those of us that are jumping our trucks and running around the park is going to see zero or next to zero difference.

That said, I'd recommend picking up a second or even third set of sealed bearings for still less the cost of one ceramic set. Or use the money saved on another upgrade.

That's just my 2 cents. I'm just a basher so take it with a grain of salt. Other more smarter guys here might tell you different.

 

[Notorious J]

Yeah, what said?

 

[JT58]

Thanks @WoodiE and @Notorious J! Saved me a few bucks ?

 

[HeavyBag]

Both are good. There's also Jim's bearings which you can find on Facebook or Ebay. Any quality rubber sealed set works, as long as you do some routine maintenance. I own at least one set from all three.

+1 Maintenance is key. Rubber, PTFE, metal, or hybrid sealed bearings...Depending on what type of RCing you do, will determine what seal/performance you may be after. Are you the type of RCer that rids the bearing of grease and inserts a special oil? I run my RCs in some very dusty track bashing conditions. I know if I don't clean/relube my RC's rubber sealed bearings every 15 runs, they have a short lifespan. Even though double rubber sealed bearings are used most of the time, in most areas of my "trashers" (track bashers), dust is my nemensis.

I'll also add into the mix that I only buy ABEC5 bearings especially for my motors. I feel a tighter tolerance bearing is needed for areas of high RPMs. A lot of bearings out there will sell for $1each. I just try and buy from a reputable brand/seller with great feedback.

 

[The bashist]

+1 Maintenance is key. Rubber, PTFE, metal, or hybrid sealed bearings...Depending on what type of RCing you do, will determine what seal/performance you may be after. Are you the type of RCer that rids the bearing of grease and inserts a special oil? I run my RCs in some very dusty track bashing conditions. I know if I don't clean/relube my RC's rubber sealed bearings every 15 runs, they have a short lifespan. Even though double rubber sealed bearings are used most of the time, in most areas of my "trashers" (track bashers), dust is my nemensis.

I'll also add into the mix that I only buy ABEC5 bearings especially for my motors. I feel a tighter tolerance bearing is needed for areas of high RPMs. A lot of bearings out there will sell for $1each. I just try and buy from a reputable brand/seller with great feedback.

I do run my RC cars in a wide variety of terrains, lots of jumping, even go mudding once in a great while.

 

[MrTitanium]

I’ve purchased Fast Eddie bearings in the past for a Summit and Nitro TC3. Quality is ok.
, but couldn’t vouch for them. I’ve had much better results with Avid’s Revolution bearings, however. Plus at $1.00 a bearing ($30 for my Big Rock 6s), I highly recommended them.

 

[Sledgehog]

Any good videos on swapping the bearings on an arrma 6s model? Never built or rebuilt a diff before and have a fast Eddie's kit sitting here waiting to be installed on my Talion. ?

 

[Lingerfelter6]

Any good videos on swapping the bearings on an arrma 6s model? Never built or rebuilt a diff before and have a fast Eddie's kit sitting here waiting to be installed on my Talion. ?

It;s quite a big job. took me some time to swap them all out. I still have yet to replace the bushings in the steering posts only because I lack the proper tools to take it apart. That said, do 1 section at a time. Start with the front wheel bearings, then rear wheels.

Next move on to the diffs. I scheduled my bearing change to coincide with my diif servicing. Its time consuming, but rewarding.

Have fun!

 

[Sledgehog]

Yeah I figured I'd do the steering and wheels for now and then do the diff bearings when they need to be rebuilt but I'd like to be "prepared" for when the time comes and there's so many vids out that edit out all the important bits or whoever made the video totally fat-fingers the picture and you can't see wtf they are actually doing

Didn't know if anyone here had any good ones to recommend for this particular job.

 

[Lingerfelter6]

Yeah I figured I'd do the steering and wheels for now and then do the diff bearings when they need to be rebuilt but I'd like to be "prepared" for when the time comes and there's so many vids out that edit out all the important bits or whoever made the video totally fat-fingers the picture and you can't see wtf they are actually doing

Didn't know if anyone here had any good ones to recommend for this particular job.

Tear down and rebuilding diffs are relatively straightforward. The challenging part will be changing the bearings for the diff housing, not that it is complicated, but requires some effort. But you just need to feel the pain , for a lack of a better word, only once. After figuring out what works, the second change for the other housing will be a breeze

 

[Notorious J]

Getting these two puppies out was a chore. First, you have to heat them up enough to get the grub screws out that are welded by red loctite. The amount of loctite they used, bled down over the shaft of the pinion gear. More heat and finally ended up using a thin nail punch to tap the pinion out. It was tedious on the first, but the second one went a lot quicker. You just have to be careful not to damaged the pinion shaft, so it goes back together smoothly.

 

[Sledgehog]

You guys using a mini torch on these to heat them up or a soldering iron contacting the screw. I only have a 25w soldering iron atm so not sure if that will do the job. Might have to pick up a mini torch.

 

[Notorious J]

Iron, 60 watt. If yours can melt solder, it should be able to heat the screw. Just gotta hold it there a little longer