Notorious Before-I-Buy Questions

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The Bean

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Arrma RC's
  1. Notorious
I know there are many reviews, and threads like this, but I still have some questions:

1. Is the Notorious "unbreakable", assuming I don't crash it (I always try to land in grass)?​
I really don't like repairing stuff that "isn't my fault" that it broke, so, for example, if I launch the Notorious and land perfectly, is the chance that it breaks near zero?
I have another RC (Slash 4x4 VXL), and as long as I land perfectly, nothing breaks. Should I expect the Notorious to be just as durable?
I don't care about breaking it when crashing, because I can prevent that without spending money: just learn to drive better.

2. Assuming I do crash it, what can it handle with few modifications (I always try to land in grass)?​
I've heard replacing the chassis braces are a must, to prevent many other parts from breaking, so assume I have upgraded braces.

3. What are must-have mods/upgrades, besides:​
  • Diff fluids
  • Chassis braces
  • Alu. servo mount?
Many people say: 'Just go full M2C', but I'm a 16 y/o without a job (can't work in the USA), so I have to do with my current money + allowance, and I also have to (read: want to) buy a new laptop and guitar. What are the absolute essentials?

4. How are all the stock electronics?​
People say the radio and receiver are good for an RTR set.
From what I've heard the servo is ok-ish, and that there are other mods to improve steering (I'll do more research after buying, as this isn't a priority).
I've heard many opinions about the motor + ESC, so how good are they for general, non-extreme skatepark use?
Should I upgrade immediately (if so, to what?), or are they sufficient? Do I need cooling (I'll be living in Portland when I buy one)?
And, is this true: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/kv-range-firma-150a.33799/ Only one person answered, and I prefer to have the opinions/knowledge of as many people as possible.

5. Will 2x 3s fit?​
https://www.smc-racing.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=99&product_id=641
2x 38mm > 70mm, but I've heard there is a way to make the batt. tray larger.
Otherwise, what is a good option for 2x 3s LiPo's? I need some for my 1:10, that can also be used in a Notorious.

6. How much should I expect to spend?​
Like I said, I want to be a bit careful with spending money. This is my current "buy-list":
$600 ARRMA Notorious 6s V5 (I thought it was $570?)​
$60 SMC 6s 5000 mAh​
$50 M2C/$25 EXB chassis braces (you can get a pair of EXB ones for $25 at JBI RC)​
$10 Tuning stuff​
$... A good charger​
I'll keep in mind that shock towers are a likely future upgrade, though I don't mind constantly bending them back if that means not buying a $100 M2C pair.



And, why am I getting a Notorious? Because My Slash is the complete opposite: great in a straight line, and jumps perfectly stable, but I can't even dream about letting that thing do more than half a flip. I just want something more exiting with more variety, to test the limits of my control. The Slash is "too easy" to drive, though I still love it!
 
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Lots of questions and you’ll probably get a variety of answers.

Not wanting to sound harsh, but you should dispel any belief that you aren't going to crash it. If you bash/jump - you WILL land funny/off/wrong/yardsale and depending on how you land, you may break arms, rip out pivot balls, etc. It's just a fact of life of bashing/jumping. It's also not about crashing, you can break diff parts by landing on power. I suppose if you just drive around in a field and do some small jumps off a ramp, sure - it'll last - but if you're running 6s and playing in a skate park that's a recipe for broken stuff.

Other than the steering servo, stock electronics are fine. You can get a decent servo for $20-30 from Amazon.
 
I think damage often has a lot to do with people trying to be like the crazy guy on YouTube sending his RC truck into the sky.
I ran my Kraton 6s V4 pretty hard and did lots of backflips. Never broke a thing other than one screw for a shock mount.

This truck on 6s is on another level. Not sure if you have seen one run or driven one but it is in another league compared to Traxxas junk. The Kraton 6s was 100% more reliable than my Slash 4x4!!!!
I would actually like to get another one as I miss that truck a lot!

I do recommend you get MIP hex wrenches for a 6s vehicle. Many screws have Loctite and you will be glad to have those good hex wrenches.
 
Lots of questions and you’ll probably get a variety of answers.

Not wanting to sound harsh, but you should dispel any belief that you aren't going to crash it. If you bash/jump - you WILL land funny/off/wrong/yardsale and depending on how you land, you may break arms, rip out pivot balls, etc. It's just a fact of life of bashing/jumping. It's also not about crashing, you can break diff parts by landing on power. I suppose if you just drive around in a field and do some small jumps off a ramp, sure - it'll last - but if you're running 6s and playing in a skate park that's a recipe for broken stuff.

Other than the steering servo, stock electronics are fine. You can get a decent servo for $20-30 from Amazon.
I know, I know, I'm not saying I'm perfect. The Notorious is like a fighter jet: built to be unstable.

It's just, when something breaks and its clearly MY fault (for example, broken arm after ramming a pole or a bad landing), I don't mind repairing it: I break it, I pay for repairs.
BUT, when I land perfectly, and the arm breaks, I do not like replacing it, because I'd know it would break sometime later, even if I would drive carefully. That would take all the fun out of bashing.

My Slash for example breaks a bearing after every run (they are 2 yrs old and not properly maintained), and because of that I don't like running it: every time something breaks, even if I'm driving in a straight line (happened more than twice already)

(Yes, I will buy a bearing kit for my Slash 😁)
 
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Between my K6 and Noto., the Noto chassis I have never bent. I have been through 3 Kraton OE chassis though. It bends and twists much at the rear Because of the longer Kr. Wh. Base
The Noto. wants to wheelie all day long. Seems cool at first. But the novelty wears off because it becomes hard to drive in a normal fashion.. Fr. WHeels will blow out easily. So a better Thr. finger and lowering the ESC punch as well as dialing in the diffs better will help with the Noto.. The Kraton is much more controllable in this regard.
 
I think damage often has a lot to do with people trying to be like the crazy guy on YouTube sending his RC truck into the sky.
I ran my Kraton 6s V4 pretty hard and did lots of backflips. Never broke a thing other than one screw for a shock mount.

I do recommend you get MIP hex wrenches for a 6s vehicle. Many screws have Loctite and you will be glad to have those good hex wrenches.
I already have decent tools, and I can always use my dad's if necessary 👍🏽

And don't worry, I won't launch it (yet) 😁. I just want to do some flips/other stunts.
 
I don't think anyone would ever guarantee that you won't break if you drive "perfectly". These are high-performance vehicles and they wear down over time regardless of how rough or gentle you drive them. That being said, if you drive well, you are much MUCH less likely to break than if you are a hooligan.

I have a Kraton and I try to walk the line between avoiding breakages at all costs and sending it "to the moon". I can get through most bash sessions without breaking, but now that I've had it a year, I'm finding some parts are just giving up due to fatigue.
 
Stunts require some air for stunts, freestyle running. You will break the wing mounts first. I am taking bets. We all did. At least the first few times out for sure.:LOL:
And the wing mounts protect the shock tower. A good thing.
 
I know there are many reviews, and threads like this, but I still have some questions:

1. Is the Notorious "unbreakable", assuming I don't crash it (I always try to land in grass)?​
I really don't like repairing stuff that "isn't my fault" that it broke, so, for example, if I launch the Notorious and land perfectly, is the chance that it breaks near zero?
I have another RC (Slash 4x4 VXL), and as long as I land perfectly, nothing breaks. Should I expect the Notorious to be just as durable?
I don't care about breaking it when crashing, because I can prevent that without spending money: just learn to drive better.

2. Assuming I do crash it, what can it handle with few modifications (I always try to land in grass)?​
I've heard replacing the chassis braces are a must, to prevent many other parts from breaking, so assume I have upgraded braces.

3. What are must-have mods/upgrades, besides:​
  • Diff fluids
  • Chassis braces
  • Alu. servo mount?
Many people say: 'Just go full M2C', but I'm a 16 y/o without a job (can't work in the USA), so I have to do with my current money + allowance, and I also have to (read: want to) buy a new laptop and guitar. What are the absolute essentials?

4. How are all the stock electronics?​
People say the radio and receiver are good for an RTR set.
From what I've heard the servo is ok-ish, and that there are other mods to improve steering (I'll do more research after buying, as this isn't a priority).
I've heard many opinions about the motor + ESC, so how good are they for general, non-extreme skatepark use?
Should I upgrade immediately (if so, to what?), or are they sufficient? Do I need cooling (I'll be living in Portland when I buy one)?
And, is this true: https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/kv-range-firma-150a.33799/ Only one person answered, and I prefer to have the opinions/knowledge of as many people as possible.

5. Will 2x 3s fit?​
https://www.smc-racing.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=99&product_id=641
2x 38mm > 70mm, but I've heard there is a way to make the batt. tray larger.
Otherwise, what is a good option for 2x 3s LiPo's? I need some for my 1:10, that can also be used in a Notorious.

6. How much should I expect to spend?​
Like I said, I want to be a bit careful with spending money. This is my current "buy-list":
$600 ARRMA Notorious 6s V5 (I thought it was $570?)​
$60 SMC 6s 5000 mAh​
$50 M2C/$25 EXB chassis braces (you can get a pair of EXB ones for $25 at JBI RC)​
$10 Tuning stuff​
$... A good charger​
I'll keep in mind that shock towers are a likely future upgrade, though I don't mind constantly bending them back if that means not buying a $100 M2C pair.
1. I have had my Notorious for the entirety of the summer and not broken a single plastic part( snapped a steering link, but that's it) I land right most of the time, but do occasionally have bad landings however nothing ever breaks. You will need to upgrade your servo, and get the 3drc wingmount to save your wing from breaking!! 2. The Firma 150a esc can run my 1700kv hobby star motor with no problems, my temps are about the same as they were with the stock motor. 3. The amount of money you are going to spend will likely be around $850, The Notorious cost around $650, batteries around $100, can get a good charger for $60 and some other upgrades will cost $50. 4. I have never bent a shock tower so don't worry about it, and I have had my truck for 10 months.
 
Stunts require some air for stunts, freestyle running. You will break the wing mounts first. I am taking bets. We all did. At least the first few times out for sure.:LOL:
The wing mount is one of the parts I have yet to break. I'm not sure how. I'm thinking of submitting it the the Vatican as a miracle. Anyone know who the Patron Saint of Bash is?
 
Another question: how are the diffs currently? I know there are upgrades, but how are the stock ones?

And my drivestyle isn't nearly as extreme as a YouTuber, just so you know. I will probably leave the punch near stock/slightly higher, because I know I won't be making triple standing backflips and stuff
 
Another question: how are the diffs currently? I know there are upgrades, but how are the stock ones?

And my drivestyle isn't nearly as extreme as a YouTuber, just so you know. I will probably leave the punch near stock/slightly higher, because I know I won't be making triple standing backflips and stuff
The diffs are ehhhh not so good at least in my case, it took over $200 to bulletproof my diffs. I have had to install the metal diff cup on all three diffs and have had to go full hot racing bulkheads f/r. Since doing this in April I have never stripped another ring gear :) I am not sure if it was just my driving improvement or the upgrades really did work, which I think they did.
 
Another question: how are the diffs currently? I know there are upgrades, but how are the stock ones?

And my drivestyle isn't nearly as extreme as a YouTuber, just so you know. I will probably leave the punch near stock/slightly higher, because I know I won't be making triple standing backflips and stuff
I've had to repair my diffs twice during my ownership. Generally pretty reliable as far as I'm concerned. Once, I broke one of the sun gears and then another time I broke the pin that holds the shaft in place.
 
I remember you getting your Notorious!

I think that wing mount is being sold by one of the forum members?

And sorry, if I buy a Noto for 1.5k, I wouldn't have money for spare parts :(
I just scrolled back on the Notorious forums and you were talking about getting one last October!!
 
The wing mount is one of the parts I have yet to break. I'm not sure how. I'm thinking of submitting it the the Vatican as a miracle. Anyone know who the Patron Saint of Bash is?

Same here.

On my V4, I bent both towers, broke numerous rod ends, bent a couple shock shafts, the body is on it's last miles...but the original stock wing mount is still on. Same thing for the A-Arms: for some reason, I have not broken the stock a-arms yet. I guess not running into trees and landing on soft-ish ground has something to do with this.

(Yes, I do realize that I probably jinxed myself by posting this.)
 
The diffs are ehhhh not so good at least in my case, it took over $200 to bulletproof my diffs. I have had to install the metal diff cup on all three diffs and have had to go full hot racing bulkheads f/r. Since doing this in April I have never stripped another ring gear :) I am not sure if it was just my driving improvement or the upgrades really did work, which I think they did.
The diffs metal parts are just fine it is all the plastic around them that is the problem. It flexes too much under load, this flex leads to stripped gears.

@The Bean all rc cars can and will break no matter how you drive them so there really is no simple answer to that question. I've had my Outcast since August of 2017 and the only things that are still original are the rear outer hinge pins, the front upper hinge pins, the wing mount/ rear chassis brace bolts, the esc tray and the wheel nuts.
 
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