Infraction Bent chassis and busted parts

[Notoriousone]

Ok lets see some bent chassis/broken parts from speedrun crashes, lol I know you all have pics.. I'll go first, here's some of the carnage left on my trail of destruction.. a couple bodies, 4 bent chassis, a 15 pound box full of broken parts. There is more as well lol. Its funny how after a while the crashes mostly stop bothering you, you just get on with repairing. In the past year and a half of speedrunning Ive had at least 7 or 8 big crashes at over 100 to 120 mph. But I've also been over 130mph on a few different cars, and had a lot of fun so its had its highs too.. What got me thinking about all this was seeing Raz's latest video where it seems like it happens to the pros fairly often as well

 

[jondilly1974]

Lol I don’t have space to keep broken items. I respect your pile tho. That’s some carnage.

 

[Mr.Duke]

I’m going to jinks myself by saying this, but I’ve never had a crash or off road mishap speed running since I got heavy into it each Sunday morning since early March of this year. I did have a close call recently but attribute my good fortune to meticulous pre run regimen and checking everything over front to back religiously before each outing. Suspension setup making sure no screws have come loose and overall vehicle balance/stance are key IMO to tracking straight.

Started off running stock electronics deep into the 90’s and have been slowly creeping up on the 130 mark with a best of 127mph since going TP Castle electronics.

My only parts failures have been one screw pin shattered in the center spool and 2 broken belts on almost new white hoons. Both happened approaching 120mph and caught before the tire had a chance to come apart and cause a crash.

there’s a broken belt under that spot ^ which caused the tire to bubble and deform at high speed. The resulting sound is almost like a muffled farting noise for lack of a better description. Still balances out perfectly but you can feel the soft part where the internal belt has broken underneath the surface.

Other than a few rock nicks on the bottom of the chassis that’s all I’ve go from my journey this season from 80mph to 127mph.

 

[jondilly1974]

View attachment 103351
I’m going to jinks myself by saying this, but I’ve never had a crash or off road mishap speed running since I got heavy into it each Sunday morning since early March of this year. I did have a close call recently but attribute my good fortune to meticulous pre run regimen and checking everything over front to back religiously before each outing. Suspension setup making sure no screws have come loose and overall vehicle balance/stance are key IMO to tracking straight.

Started off running stock electronics deep into the 90’s and have been slowly creeping up on the 130 mark with a best of 127mph since going TP Castle electronics.
View attachment 103348
My only parts failures have been one screw pin shattered in the center spool and 2 broken belts on almost new white hoons. Both happened approaching 120mph and caught before the tire had a chance to come apart and cause a crash.
View attachment 103349
there’s a broken belt under that spot ^ which caused the tire to bubble and deform at high speed. The resulting sound is almost like a muffled farting noise for lack of a better description. Still balances out perfectly but you can feel the soft part where the internal belt has broken underneath the surface.

Other than a few rock nicks on the bottom of the chassis that’s all I’ve go from my journey this season from 80mph to 127mph.
View attachment 103352

Do you have a spacer on this pivot ball? Do you have a preferred amount of camber front and rear? Somewhere along the line I messed up my setup and can’t get it to track straight anymore. I have it adjusted to what I think should be good right now but need the wind to die down before the sun starts setting one of these days.

 

[Mr.Duke]

No spacer on the top pivot ball (bottoms are to the stops) and I set final camber adjustment both front and rear based strictly off of wear pattern on a brand new set of tires (this took me 2 sets of tires to get perfect). I want to see a wear patter dead center of all 4 tires after 2 full throttle passes with no pre run burnout and make quarter turn adjustments on the pillow balls and rear upper links until I get the wear pattern on the tire surface that I’m after.
My trim on the transmitter is set +4 right for this particular setup so that it tracks dead straight under moderate to full power and pulls slightly (which I don’t care about) going down to my starting point for the pass.

 

[Rcproponent]

No spacer on the top pivot ball (bottoms are to the stops) and I set final camber adjustment both front and rear based strictly off of wear pattern on a brand new set of tires (this took me 2 sets of tires to get perfect). I want to see a wear patter dead center of all 4 tires after 2 full throttle passes with no pre run burnout and make quarter turn adjustments on the pillow balls and rear upper links until I get the wear pattern on the tire surface that I’m after.
My trim on the transmitter is set +4 right for this particular setup so that it tracks dead straight under moderate to full power and pulls slightly (which I don’t care about) going down to my starting point for the pass.

Such detail ?? Very nice.

 

[Mr.Duke]

Stance front to rear has a 13mm difference over a 380mm span from the lowest point on the chassis plate. For my setup (open wheel Typhon stretched on a Kraton chassis) and with the car loaded with a 6s pack in “ready to run weight” the lowest point on the front wearing GRP tires is 15mm while the rear most part of the chassis underside sits 28mm off the ground. This degree of rake IMO is key to avoiding blow overs when under full power.
*I apologize for slightly hijacking the topic of this thread and diving into setup tips.

 

[bicketybam]

Stance front to rear has a 13mm difference over a 380mm span from the lowest point on the chassis plate. For my setup (open wheel Typhon stretched on a Kraton chassis) and with the car loaded with a 6s pack in “ready to run weight” the lowest point on the front wearing GRP tires is 15mm while the rear most part of the chassis underside sits 28mm off the ground. This degree of rake IMO is key to avoiding blow overs when under full power.
*I apologize for slightly hijacking the topic is this thread and diving into setup tips.

Have the op change the title to How to avoid bent chassis and broken parts. Then you are spot on! ???

 

[jondilly1974]

Thanks a ton @Mr.Duke that is great info. Do you feel like you have the camber dead 0 or is there a tiny bit of negative camber (f/r)?

 

[Mr.Duke]

Sitting still stationary at running weight it’s ever so slightly in at both ends

Front

Rear

 

[jondilly1974]

Sitting still stationary at running weight it’s ever so slightly in at both ends

Front
View attachment 103361

Rear
View attachment 103362

Looks almost exactly how I just set mine up. I had been trying to run them at absolute zero and I think that might have been a part of my issue. It would just walk one way or another.

The other thing you said that was really helpful for me was don’t worry about how straight it goes going down to the start. Worry about it going straight under power. Totally makes sense and should have been common sense to me but for whatever reason it never dawned on me to do this.