Kraton Best Motor, Electronics Combo For Kraton 6s EXB

[rook13pdx]

...might just have to reverse the throttle on the Transmitter.

Dude. I did all of that. Reprogrammed everything to baseline (ECU, Receiver/Transmitter), then tried everything programmed in reverse, then all combinations of programming in reverse on ECU, Transmitter (set to reverse, and programmed to reverse) - each time resetting receiver, etc... In all combinations, all it does is give me forward with the trigger but it's still backwards, i.e. pulling trigger for forward is only 50% (default setting) and when I push trigger (reverse) it's 100% and pull trigger is the brake.

It. Is. The. B Link. That. I. Need.

And if that ain't it, I've got an ECU/Motor to sell! lol

 

[jkflow]

@rook13pdx you keep saying you did, but you didn't do the right sequence of events.
Do NOT use an ESC programming cable, it will only confuse things.
Do as per below, and I guarantee it will work, any shortcut will not work.
a) IGNORE the existing motor direction
a1) Set your rig with wheels up in the air
a2) Set throttle trim to zero, make sure AVC throttle gain is 100% (if available)
b) Make sure that your transmitter throttle channel is in REV (reverse)
If you do not do this, everything else is a moot point.
c) Perform a full throttle range adjust with your ESC
d) cycle power on your ESC
e) go 'forward' with wheels in air if they are right you are done, if not go to f)
f) switch 2 motor wire, any will do


The ESC is looking for a 'FUTABA' protocol, that is only achieved on Spektrum, Futaba and Radiolink (any many other brands) by switching the throttle channel to 'reverse'.
That will give 50% in reverses and 100% forward.

Don't ask why, I don't know.

Advanced, if all this is now working, connect the ESC cable and reverse direction and then flip 2 motor wires.
You have to do 2 steps. If it's not working you didn't follow the above steps.

Granted, I have no idea what transmitter/receiver you are using

 

[Spoc85]

When I said go MIP instead of dropping $70.00 on a Traxxas toolkit it was based on personal experience. Yes, you get every size of pretty much everything you need with the Traxxas kit, but the hex drivers (which is what you really need and use 94% of the time) stripped out socket head hexes and the tools rounded off faster that some of the el-cheapo sets I’ve bought. Very disappointing, when you can get the four sizes you need in MIP for less money, and MIP hex drivers are vastly superior. I’m surprised your research didn’t turn up this very common criticism with the Traxxas set, or with the overwhelming support of both noobs and pros for the MIP stuff. It seems like one of the few things most people on the forums actually agree on. So yes, I offered a much better alternative to the Traxxas set, so I think my response is somewhat mischaracterized as “noise.” And not to be rude, but if you list what your choices were, what you purchased, and then actually ask for opinions on them then you will certainly get them. Everyone has opinions, and many are very happy to share them. If you receive these opinions (after asking for them) and then just argue that your extensive research contradicts the answer, what’s the point? There are some super knowledgeable people here who can offer solutions and suggestions that may not have occurred to you. You should entertain some of these responses, and start your research again when necessary. I hope you enjoy this forum and the knowledge that many here share. It’s a great place.

Not a bad kit but like you said you only really need the 3 hexes. Ratchet gears get sticky and the 2mm has been rounded out.
MIP’s are the way to go.

Dude. I did all of that. Reprogrammed everything to baseline (ECU, Receiver/Transmitter), then tried everything programmed in reverse, then all combinations of programming in reverse on ECU, Transmitter (set to reverse, and programmed to reverse) - each time resetting receiver, etc... In all combinations, all it does is give me forward with the trigger but it's still backwards, i.e. pulling trigger for forward is only 50% (default setting) and when I push trigger (reverse) it's 100% and pull trigger is the brake.

It. Is. The. B Link. That. I. Need.

And if that ain't it, I've got an ECU/Motor to sell! lol

I had the issue both times(sensored and uncensored) and sorted it without the B-link as I had not received it yet. I cannot remember the sequence on how I got to the solution but there was abit of stuffing around to get there.
Follow @jkflow procedure and you should be right.

B-link still in its packet.

 

[Spoc85]

It. Is. The. B Link. That. I. Need.

And if that ain't it, I've got an ECU/Motor to sell! lol

I skimmed through this post this morning and didn’t realise you were being a smart arse when a bloke was trying to help you out.
Hopefully you’ve bricked your ESC with the dumb ass decisions that you’ve probably been making.

 

[rook13pdx]

I skimmed through this post this morning and didn’t realise you were being a smart arse when a bloke was trying to help you out.
Hopefully you’ve bricked your ESC with the dumb ass decisions that you’ve probably been making.

Good lord…. smart ass is posting to do the same thing over again when I said I had already done this, that and the other thing. Calm out and grab a beer, or two, and a joint. Chill. It’s Friday.

 

[Dan B.]

Wow man, can’t we all just get along?

 

[rook13pdx]

“The Dude” avatar will never relinquish #1 status on the all time list. I had it in some poker sites I used to play on and it was so good beating another good poker player with The Dude standing victorious against some other equally great avatar.

Just had to say.

 

[Dan B.]

“The Dude” avatar will never relinquish #1 status on the all time list. I had it in some poker sites I used to play on and it was so good beating another good poker player with The Dude standing victorious against some other equally great avatar.

Just had to say.

Thanks, man. I agree. It really ties this forum together.

 

[Don Pots]

You’re laughin only paying $11 for a B Link. $100AUS I had to pay.

No need for the B link. Did you swap 2 phases on the motor?

Sorry I miss typed. I paid $49 for B-Link.

I ran uncensored with a rocket motor…… happy days. Hooked up the sensored cable and everything was out of whack. I had to swap 2 phases over, I swapped the rotation within the ESC using the TX and I also had to reverse the throttle on the transmitter.
The phase rotation may be correct in @rook13pdx case as it’s a Castle motor so he might just have to reverse the throttle on the Transmitter.

I am running sensored. It starts running in wrong direction. You have to swap directions using ESC not transmitter otherwise your breaking will still be all jacked up. Sensored is awesome. You can crawl with it no prob.

 

[Spoc85]

Sorry I miss typed. I paid $49 for B-Link.

I am running sensored. It starts running in wrong direction. You have to swap directions using ESC not transmitter otherwise your breaking will still be all jacked up. Sensored is awesome. You can crawl with it no prob.

My TX had to be in REV.
I think it may have been in the NOR when I was running uncensored.

“The Dude” avatar will never relinquish #1 status on the all time list. I had it in some poker sites I used to play on and it was so good beating another good poker player with The Dude standing victorious against some other equally great avatar.

Just had to say.

WTF………

 

[rook13pdx]

Just received the Castle Link programmer today. Set motor to reverse. Problem solved. Forward is actually forward 100%, reverse is 50% stop/reverse - previously programming it with the controller and switching the transmitter made it go forward, sure, but it was forward/brake 50% and reverse 100%. No amount of programming the ECU, switching the transmitter, etc. fixed that . And... it rips! Did nearly one half hour of speed runs without cutting out from heat once, I don't even have a fan on the motor yet. Pretty pumped. We'll see how long I can keep this servo but seems strong. Now, on to painting a new body!

 

[Spoc85]

You probably didn’t have your tongue to the left hand side when you were trying to programme it with the transmitter……….. that would’ve been the issue.

Glad you got it sorted

 

[SrC]

Do Aussie's drive on the left or right side of the road?
Maybe that was the misunderstanding?

 

[Don Pots]

New Additions:

Castle Creations: B-Link, 1717 Motor, M2C Racing Hinge Pin Kit, Arrma rear skid plate/wheelie bar

So for some reason my 1520 Castle motor died doing speed runs so I had it warrantied and replaced with the 1717 to see finally which one was better. They said it was a manufacturing defect. I'm no motorologist but I must say for whatever reason the 1520 seemed like it had more torque because I was able to pop it into a wheelie at top end speed a lot easier. I did notice that when I hand spun the pinion it took more effort. That being said they are both fantastic motors geared with a 20 tooth pinion toping out somewhere around 70mph based on calculations from Castle. The 1717 is buttery smooth power now that I have the B-Link added. It's great being able to make running changes right from my phone on the fly. The only clearance issue was with the cotter pin that goes through the center roll cage which touches the motor. I clipped it to make it shorter and it fit just fine. Mind you I had to take the side skirt off to get it in where as the 1520 I didn't.

I added the M2C Racing hinge pin kit, Arrma skid plate, and wheelie bar because I busted the rear plastic hinge pin retainer doing some jumps clipping a concrete divider so I wanted to bullet proof the rear end. Here are some pics. This thing is a beast! Still wheelies like a champ now even more beefy.

Oh and blew the foam right out of a wheel so vented all my tires.

 

[Spoc85]

New Additions:

Castle Creations: B-Link, 1717 Motor, M2C Racing Hinge Pin Kit, Arrma rear skid plate/wheelie bar

So for some reason my 1520 Castle motor died doing speed runs so I had it warrantied and replaced with the 1717 to see finally which one was better. They said it was a manufacturing defect. I'm no motorologist but I must say for whatever reason the 1520 seemed like it had more torque because I was able to pop it into a wheelie at top end speed a lot easier. I did notice that when I hand spun the pinion it took more effort. That being said they are both fantastic motors geared with a 20 tooth pinion toping out somewhere around 70mph based on calculations from Castle. The 1717 is buttery smooth power now that I have the B-Link added. It's great being able to make running changes right from my phone on the fly. The only clearance issue was with the cotter pin that goes through the center roll cage which touches the motor. I clipped it to make it shorter and it fit just fine. Mind you I had to take the side skirt off to get it in where as the 1520 I didn't.

I added the M2C Racing hinge pin kit, Arrma skid plate, and wheelie bar because I busted the rear plastic hinge pin retainer doing some jumps clipping a concrete divider so I wanted to bullet proof the rear end. Here are some pics. This thing is a beast! Still wheelies like a champ now even more beefy.

Oh and blew the foam right out of a wheel so vented all my tires.

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You might want to switch to a belted tyre if you’re going to speed run the rig.

 

[rook13pdx]

So many speed runs and bashing in the last few weeks. Hasn't yet once temp-cut on me. Pretty happy with the purchase.

The servo is still a little weak. Interested in finding any overkill options there if people have found both a strong servo and bolt-in mount. My whole rig is overkill at this point aside from the servo and a decent roll cage, a big servo seems to be one of the last bits I need. BTW I did the slight trim on the stock ESC mount and then double-sided taped it, hasn't budged through some moderate bashing. It'd be nice to find a good aluminum mount to bolt in but it works fine as is...

 

[Don Pots]

So many speed runs and bashing in the last few weeks. Hasn't yet once temp-cut on me. Pretty happy with the purchase.

The servo is still a little weak. Interested in finding any overkill options there if people have found both a strong servo and bolt-in mount. My whole rig is overkill at this point aside from the servo and a decent roll cage, a big servo seems to be one of the last bits I need. BTW I did the slight trim on the stock ESC mount and then double-sided taped it, hasn't budged through some moderate bashing. It'd be nice to find a good aluminum mount to bolt in but it works fine as is...

Good to hear. The Reefs I have is a monster. When you up the Bec through the ESC to 7.5Vlts it has massive torque and is super fast.

 

[parcou]

So many speed runs and bashing in the last few weeks. Hasn't yet once temp-cut on me. Pretty happy with the purchase.

The servo is still a little weak. Interested in finding any overkill options there if people have found both a strong servo and bolt-in mount. My whole rig is overkill at this point aside from the servo and a decent roll cage, a big servo seems to be one of the last bits I need. BTW I did the slight trim on the stock ESC mount and then double-sided taped it, hasn't budged through some moderate bashing. It'd be nice to find a good aluminum mount to bolt in but it works fine as is...

Been very happy with my new K6S EXB and the very popular cheap servo many use here in the 6S line and 3S line DS3230. 30kg is good for this rig or 35kg...at the price, you cannot beat it

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Serv...&qid=1637344337&sprefix=ds3230,aps,184&sr=8-6

 

[rook13pdx]

Good to hear. The Reefs I have is a monster. When you up the Bec through the ESC to 7.5Vlts it has massive torque and is super fast.

Ahhh, yes. Right on. I'll try this tonight. Read this https://www.bigsquidrc.com/everybodys-scalin-explaining-the-bec/, didn't know this was one other thing I could program. Cool!

 

[Don Pots]

Ahhh, yes. Right on. I'll try this tonight. Read this https://www.bigsquidrc.com/everybodys-scalin-explaining-the-bec/, didn't know this was one other thing I could program. Cool!

The Mamba Monster X has a built in BEC. Just need the B link to program it.