Best RC LiPo battery connector types: Choosing and Soldering

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Got it and it helps a little but issues is solder and seating at right depth not to mention different plug versions where some must be inserted from front and others from the rear but no visual indicator as to which is which.
 
I have recently went with the decision of going with the EC5. I was disappointed. I have almost 40 years of soldering experience and having this exercise to accomplish, I am not looking forward to. (jkflow) - Any material on the barrel and it won't seat. Using a screwdriver, well I broke two connectors. I figure I can practice on the male ones, since I only will be using battery connectors, a couple of adapters.

I know I will master these in a month or so. But I have soldered surface mount components, and this darn 'lock' I just don't hear. I clean the connector, trim the wire sheathing, use a combo of torch and gun (with this type of gauge you need some bog wire and big heat.

Before it's late, I either jump into learning to solder EC5s' or revert back to XT90s'.
Are you putting the connector on the wire first then pulling it on once it's been soldered? I found the ec5 to work OK, but I personally love xt150 connectors, they are bigger, but you don't need y connectors to join 2 batteries in series. Hobby King sells these and you can buy 20 sets for $20 USD easy to solder, like above just slide the connector on the cable first then solder and pull till it clicks in, job done.
 
Got it and it helps a little but issues is solder and seating at right depth not to mention different plug versions where some must be inserted from front and others from the rear but no visual indicator as to which is which.
Sorry you’re having trouble with EC5’s and yes you’re correct about multiple styles. You can tell the difference by looking at the actual connection terminal. I don’t use the ones that pull back into the connector to seat.

Bottom line is that it’s all personal preference. I’m no expert, but the EC5’s work well for me!

Good luck!😎🤟🏼
 
Hello, can I replace my ec5 to ec8 without any problem? Just noticed it looks bigger. Not sure if it requires different gage wire or what, gonna assume it would be just fine?
 
Hello, can I replace my ec5 to ec8 without any problem? Just noticed it looks bigger. Not sure if it requires different gage wire or what, gonna assume it would be just fine?
you'll just have a gap in connector when you insert the wire, but when you solder it the space will fill with solder. You only need to increase your wire size if you are increasing your current draw. If nothing else has changed then you won't need to, the connector won't draw more current it will just allow a better connection and transfer of the electricity that is already in your setup.
 
Soldered my first xt-90 yesterday. I'm definitely learning as I go. I went out and bought some better solder and some flux because tinning the wires is the hardest part for me. I'm going to give the flux a go in the next couple of days.
20210503_223839.jpg
 
What made the biggest difference for me was having leaded solder as opposed to lead-free. I found lead-free solder was so awful to use. It would struggle to melt to begin with and I'd never be able to reuse it. Lost a lot of connector plugs trying to get it to work

I now use tin/lead 60/40 rosin core solder. Night and day difference 👍
 
Soldered my first xt-90 yesterday. I'm definitely learning as I go. I went out and bought some better solder and some flux because tinning the wires is the hardest part for me. I'm going to give the flux a go in the next couple of days.
It just should not be that hard. I have been soldering for years and what you need here is a 250watt iron. I had one at work. Hot & fast in - slow withdraw.
 
250W is a little overkill but yes it will work very well. Heat transfer and maintaining temps is a key to success.
Leadfree needs higher temps and flux or you will go nowhere. I use 60/40 with rosin core as well.

I use this type for wires up to 6 AWG
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP80N...ds=soldering+iron&qid=1620184633&sr=8-23&th=1


Some are happy with soldering stations (Hakko etc.) but I know how to solder (so I claim) and I struggle with those as well on battery wires.
I have a Hakko for anything smaller than battery wires and the big one for those wires. Anything larger gets the torch.
 
250W is a little overkill but yes it will work very well. Heat transfer and maintaining temps is a key to success.
Leadfree needs higher temps and flux or you will go nowhere. I use 60/40 with rosin core as well.

I use this type for wires up to 6 AWG
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP80NUS-80-Watts-Soldering-Iron/dp/B00B3SG796/ref=sr_1_23?dchild=1&keywords=soldering+iron&qid=1620184633&sr=8-23&th=1


Some are happy with soldering stations (Hakko etc.) but I know how to solder (so I claim) and I struggle with those as well on battery wires.
I have a Hakko for anything smaller than battery wires and the big one for those wires. Anything larger gets the torch.
The Weller 80 watt, I've got it. If I didn't have the 80 and only my other stuff; my Chinese soldering station, a Radio Shack 25w, and three other Wellers, I wouldn't have any connectors soldered.
 
I don't think I've ever used flux or paste when soldering wires or something like a lipo connector. Now on a board with SMD components sure, it's almost magical how well it helps. Always try to seek out a good grade of solder with the flux built in like Kester. Made the mistake many years ago buying a cheap roll from a vendor. It even smelled foul when it would burn off the rosin and didn't flow well.

Then again, I never knew the concept of turning the temp down with stations used all those years ago.
 
What made the biggest difference for me was having leaded solder as opposed to lead-free. I found lead-free solder was so awful to use. It would struggle to melt to begin with and I'd never be able to reuse it. Lost a lot of connector plugs trying to get it to work

I now use tin/lead 60/40 rosin core solder. Night and day difference 👍
Couldn't agree more, night and day, lead free sucks!
250W is a little overkill but yes it will work very well. Heat transfer and maintaining temps is a key to success.
Leadfree needs higher temps and flux or you will go nowhere. I use 60/40 with rosin core as well.

I use this type for wires up to 6 AWG
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP80NUS-80-Watts-Soldering-Iron/dp/B00B3SG796/ref=sr_1_23?dchild=1&keywords=soldering+iron&qid=1620184633&sr=8-23&th=1


Some are happy with soldering stations (Hakko etc.) but I know how to solder (so I claim) and I struggle with those as well on battery wires.
I have a Hakko for anything smaller than battery wires and the big one for those wires. Anything larger gets the torch.
I've got a large chisel tip on my Hakko for esc and battery connectors xt150 connectors I use, I've never had any trouble getting enough heat for those, it will create a pool of liquid solder in the connector and when the tinned wire goes in a few seconds and it flows through the strands of a 8awg wire no worries.

I did struggle without the big tip and with solder that was substandard.
 
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So I just got some new batteries from CNHL and they came with 8 guage wire. I use a Weller soldering gun (Weller 100w soldering gun) and I just could not get the solder to pool properly. I eventually switched over to my mini torch but I would get a good pool in the connector and as soon as I inserted the wire it seems like all of the solder got sucked up into the wire strands.

Any suggestions on what I'm doing wrong here? I figured at 100w my gun should be plenty hot. Maybe it's time to upgrade to a ceramic element gun?

I am using this Solder that I purchased a while ago after reading this thread way back in the day. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H87U836/?&tag=arrma-20
 
Soldering guns are misleading in the marking and do not have the power to solder these wires. The small tip and wire are not capable to transfer the heat in the amount needed. I always call it 'thermal inertia', like pushing a feather down a slope vs a boulder.

A good solderjoint on these wires is done in 2-3s, filling the cup with solder excluded.
 
Soldering guns are misleading in the marking and do not have the power to solder these wires. The small tip and wire are not capable to transfer the heat in the amount needed. I always call it 'thermal inertia', like pushing a feather down a slope vs a boulder.

A good solderjoint on these wires is done in 2-3s, filling the cup with solder excluded.
Yeah, something with a tip that has more mass to hold more heat works better for larger stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP80NUS-80-Watts-Soldering-Iron/dp/B00B3SG796

I use a cheap 100W iron and a separate rheostat. When doing XT90's, I usually set it to 6 or so and once it gets fully heated, it does them without a problem in a couple seconds. I crank it up to 8 when taking lipo's apart as they use a higher heat solder I think, and a lot of it. My 60W iron at 100% wouldn't touch it.

https://www.amazon.com/Choice-Stained-Glass-Soldering-Rheostat/dp/B077BLVDHD

I use one of these 60W irons for my AWG12 on down:
https://www.amazon.com/GLE2016-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-Different/dp/B01N413T8U

I set the rheostat on the iron to 100% and wrapped it with heat shrink so it stays put and use the separate rheostat to control it. I usually set it to 6 or 7 as well for most stuff, lower if I'm working on a circuit board.
 
So I just got some new batteries from CNHL and they came with 8 guage wire. I use a Weller soldering gun (Weller 100w soldering gun) and I just could not get the solder to pool properly. I eventually switched over to my mini torch but I would get a good pool in the connector and as soon as I inserted the wire it seems like all of the solder got sucked up into the wire strands.

Any suggestions on what I'm doing wrong here? I figured at 100w my gun should be plenty hot. Maybe it's time to upgrade to a ceramic element gun?

I am using this Solder that I purchased a while ago after reading this thread way back in the day. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H87U836/?&tag=arrma-20
If you tin the wire first it might help, the solder needs to flow into the wire, but if it's not tinned it will take too long and if your using a connector with the pin mounted in plastic it will likely melt it before it flows through. On those types of connectors like xt90s I prefer to tin the connector and wire, then heat the wire up first then apply the wire to the connector and finish off the heat process as quickly as possible. That is why I like XT150s they can be soldered with no worries about melting the plastic. EC5 connectors are good in that way also, even though I prefer the XT90 as a connector they are easy to destroy, though the genuine Amass ones are far superior to the ones you need to put heat shrink over the pins.
 
Strip (the wire ;))
have a wet sponge to clean the tip (..oh boy..)
tin the wire (flux if necessary)
fill the connector cup with solder (~50%) hold it with something that does not transmit heat (non-metal), wood is ideal
while the cup is hot insert the wire, since it's pre-tinned this will all melt quickly
2-3s maybe add some more solder and done. If it's longer than 5s start cursing and buy a soldering iron with more power.
hold steady until it solder looses it's shimmer, you could use pliers to draw heat out of the cup ~ 20s
done
trim any overflow with a sharp knife (EC5 connectors)

Nneedle nose pliers, a wooden jig (or cloth pins) and a knife come in handy. Use a heat resistant work surface (silicon mat).
 
If you tin the wire first it might help, the solder needs to flow into the wire, but if it's not tinned it will take too long and if your using a connector with the pin mounted in plastic it will likely melt it before it flows through. On those types of connectors like xt90s I prefer to tin the connector and wire, then heat the wire up first then apply the wire to the connector and finish off the heat process as quickly as possible. That is why I like XT150s they can be soldered with no worries about melting the plastic. EC5 connectors are good in that way also, even though I prefer the XT90 as a connector they are easy to destroy, though the genuine Amass ones are far superior to the ones you need to put heat shrink over the pins.
Yeah, I tin both.

I'm not new to soldering, been doing it a long time. Back in the day I used to build battery packs because that's how it was done back in the 90s.
I can solder XT90's to 10 and 12 guage wire all day. But I just can't seem to get a good pool on the 8 guage with my soldering gun.

Maybe I will try the cheap gun with large chisel listed above. I'm holding out for a Hakko
 
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