Best RC LiPo battery connector types: Choosing and Soldering

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FWIW, I ran across this video a while back:
@1:18, there was 300A running through the xt90 and the wire desoldered itself. The connector seemed unfazed.

I'm not saying you should replace everything with XT90's, just that it seems well up to the task for the few seconds of amperage spikes we put them through in most cases.

The OSE QS8 seem nice for big amps:
https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-qs8-anti
Some of the esc motor combos we run can pull 300A continuously, I have had an XT90 de-solder itself mid session, it hasn't happened with an xt150 yet. XT90s are well and truly ok for the stock systems.
I love that option of have one pre-made lead to use for two batteries as well. As for the spark, I tried both ways and had similar results, but I'll try to focus on positive first next time around.
Oh okay, it is very unnerving when you connect 8s up isn't it? The Hobbywing ESCs I have have anti-spark I don't know why Castle didn't do it?
 
Sorry if this has already been answered earlier in the thread, but I was wondering if anyone has a method for eliminating the huge spark from 8mm bullet connectors. I've seen some people talk about soldering in a low resistance resistor (1-4ohm) to the last connection to be made and complete the circuit first to charge any caps, but I was hoping someone here has some ideas.
 
Sorry if this has already been answered earlier in the thread, but I was wondering if anyone has a method for eliminating the huge spark from 8mm bullet connectors. I've seen some people talk about soldering in a low resistance resistor (1-4ohm) to the last connection to be made and complete the circuit first to charge any caps, but I was hoping someone here has some ideas.
As150 connectors
 
Sorry if this has already been answered earlier in the thread, but I was wondering if anyone has a method for eliminating the huge spark from 8mm bullet connectors. I've seen some people talk about soldering in a low resistance resistor (1-4ohm) to the last connection to be made and complete the circuit first to charge any caps, but I was hoping someone here has some ideas.
I indeed use a resistor(50ohm even) on parallel cable. It requires 2 extra bullets to make the final connection. But i think its much cleaner build than using gigantic as150's.
 

No thanks. I already have 8mm bullets installed and don't want to switch to a smaller connector.
I indeed use a resistor(50ohm even) on parallel cable. It requires 2 extra bullets to make the final connection. But i think its much cleaner build than using gigantic as150's.

Aha! Good to know. What are your thoughts on soldering in a resistor with one leg looped out beyond the positive bullet on the ESC, and simply holding the last connection against it for a couple seconds before making the connection?
 
No thanks. I already have 8mm bullets installed and don't want to switch to a smaller connector.


Aha! Good to know. What are your thoughts on soldering in a resistor with one leg looped out beyond the positive bullet on the ESC, and simply holding the last connection against it for a couple seconds before making the connection?
Jup like @jkflow said, it could work, caps only need to be charged to prevent the sparking
This is my solution:

IMG_20210615_232442.jpg
 
Sorry if this has already been answered earlier in the thread, but I was wondering if anyone has a method for eliminating the huge spark from 8mm bullet connectors. I've seen some people talk about soldering in a low resistance resistor (1-4ohm) to the last connection to be made and complete the circuit first to charge any caps, but I was hoping someone here has some ideas.
that would be very helpful info?
 
I went with QS8 anti spark connectors for my XLX2 and 1100kv motor on my Outcast 8s and EXB K8S. Way better than XT90 and XT150 that I used before.
 
I went with QS8 anti spark connectors for my XLX2 and 1100kv motor on my Outcast 8s and EXB K8S. Way better than XT90 and XT150 that I used before.
I prefer the XT150 because you don't have the risk of melting the plastic, and you can join two batteries in series without a Y-lead. The anti-spark feature is of course a huge plus of the QS8, and the current capability is superb, and you can't connect the two ends of you battery together by accident.

The cost of the XT150 is very low which is great if you're swapping over your full fleet. HobbyKing sells them in packs of 10 pairs for $10!
 
I prefer the XT150 because you don't have the risk of melting the plastic, and you can join two batteries in series without a Y-lead. The anti-spark feature is of course a huge plus of the QS8, and the current capability is superb, and you can't connect the two ends of you battery together by accident.

The cost of the XT150 is very low which is great if you're swapping over your full fleet. HobbyKing sells them in packs of 10 pairs for $10!
Isn't shipping still $8?
 
I prefer the XT150 because you don't have the risk of melting the plastic, and you can join two batteries in series without a Y-lead. The anti-spark feature is of course a huge plus of the QS8, and the current capability is superb, and you can't connect the two ends of you battery together by accident.

The cost of the XT150 is very low which is great if you're swapping over your full fleet. HobbyKing sells them in packs of 10 pairs for $10!
The XT150 connector is very nice, but I was afraid that the XLX2 pulls way too much current for that connector TBH. And they were getting black from the huge arc every time I connected it.
 
I just have ordered some JetiModel "Hacker" 8mm Anti Spark Bullets and will try them after bad experience with XT-90 EC5, XT-150 and normal 8mm Bullet's.

Hopefully they are going fine.

Regards Daniel
QS series seems to be not so popular in Germany or Europe because just few shops offering them and the availability is always limited to 1 or maximum 3 pairs in stock 🙁
 
as you have been advised you can solder the pins before inserting them, if you connect the two batteries together you will need a connector. I bought from HobbyKing, you can also buy a set of 10 pairs for $ 10, these are real XT150s. I advise)
 
Isn't shipping still $8?
How much is shipping for the other connectors?
The XT150 connector is very nice, but I was afraid that the XLX2 pulls way too much current for that connector TBH. And they were getting black from the huge arc every time I connected it.
I agree with you there, it's a great idea having anti spark, I'm not sure about the XLX2, but I find with my MMX8S escs that if I connect the positive first the spark is virtually eliminated?
 
How much is shipping for the other connectors?

I agree with you there, it's a great idea having anti spark, I'm not sure about the XLX2, but I find with my MMX8S escs that if I connect the positive first the spark is virtually eliminated?
Hobbyking has a flat rate shipping charge of like $8 unless you spend like $75 or $100.

-edit-

I lied it's not a flat rate now since they switched to USPS. And it is $100 to get free shipping.
 
Hobbyking has a flat rate shipping charge of like $8 unless you spend like $75 or $100.

-edit-

I lied it's not a flat rate now since they switched to USPS. And it is $100 to get free shipping.
Ok, sorry I'm not sure I get what you're trying to say, isn't it similar at most places you would buy things from. I don't have any local shops and the ones I've been to sell nasty copies of the connectors for $10-$15 aud each. So the cost of shipping is the same for me wherever I shop. I don't know anywhere where you can buy genuine xt90 xt60 XT150s for less than that even if you add the cost of shipping. I live in Australia so the shipping might be different?

------edit-------

I just did a check the cost here is $17.05aud which is $12.59usd for the connectors, the shipping is $9.18aud which is $6.78usd. So I don't know if you have local warehouses in the USA for hobbyking, but if you have to get the parts from HK then it's maybe not worth it?
 
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