Best RC LiPo battery connector types: Choosing and Soldering

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In my own experience Deans are garbage, I would much rather use wire nuts than Deans. For the first 2 years I was in this hobby I used Deans, and in that time I went through almost 2 dozen connectors, the tabs would either wear out inside the battery plug or the tabs would bend on the esc plug causing them to not make contact inside the connector. I replaced everything with XT connectors a little over a year ago and I have not had to replace a single one. Even the one I sorta melted still works just fine, the little cap on the back side that hides the terminals doesn't like to stay on all the way though. It was my first time soldering an XT90 and I wasn't paying attention. ?

Also @WoodiE just a heads up on that soldering jig, if using it to solder bullet connectors, remember it is aluminum so it acts like a giant heatsink so it can make heating up the connector a bit tricky.
It looks like the bullet holders are made out of plastic or delrin or some other material so that it doesn't pull heat away from the connector. But yes, I agree that all aluminum jigs are bad for that reason.
 
It looks like the bullet holders are made out of plastic or delrin or some other material so that it doesn't pull heat away from the connector. But yes, I agree that all aluminum jigs are bad for that reason.
Oh from the bottom it looked like aluminum too.
 
I've recently been on a converting spree of making everything XT90s, just to make things easier (don't need any adapters or multiple batteries with different plugs to manage). Though, I used to do a mix of XT60s (which I still have on my kids' cars), XT90s, and the XT150s (on my vehicles that run series connections, just connect one battery to the other, and then plug the remaining wires to the esc), but after getting my 1st Arrma, I just went XT90 everything (they made it easy to switch by providing all of their vehicles with plugs to convert your batteries).
 
I used to be a trx connector user...until my first arrma. never again, my 8 new 3s packs are all xt90s anti-spark, they're so much better. i'm still using the their chargers tho (I have 2 of their dual chargers) with trx to xt90 adapters. they work fine for now but I'm looking to upgrade those soon. i need me something a little more sophisticated and with more power than the 80w shared

I recently learned about the xt150s. they seem like the solid choice for running batts in series. already ordered. Im going to give them a try and switch again if I like them enough
 
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In my own experience Deans are garbage, I would much rather use wire nuts than Deans. For the first 2 years I was in this hobby I used Deans, and in that time I went through almost 2 dozen connectors, the tabs would either wear out inside the battery plug or the tabs would bend on the esc plug causing them to not make contact inside the connector. I replaced everything with XT connectors a little over a year ago and I have not had to replace a single one. Even the one I sorta melted still works just fine, the little cap on the back side that hides the terminals doesn't like to stay on all the way though. It was my first time soldering an XT90 and I wasn't paying attention. ?

Also @WoodiE just a heads up on that soldering jig, if using it to solder bullet connectors, remember it is aluminum so it acts like a giant heatsink so it can make heating up the connector a bit tricky.

Sorry Slick but with regard to that particular jig @WoodiE has shown you are incorrect. That black area that you use for bullit connects is Bakelite. I have that precise jig and it is awesome and makes life much easier......there are many jigs that look like that which are aluminium and in which case your advice is 100% correct and people should keep away from them for the reasons your outline.....the one Woodie is showing is not one of those and works well.
 
I am a big fan of the XT90 that comes on the Kraton also like the XT60 connectors. I ruined a XT60 the other day trying to make an adapter to run my everest on a 3s lipo. Everyone probably knows this already.... but I found out that if you take 2 connectors (one male and one female) and plug them together, it really helps with heat dissipation. You know so you don't end up melting the connector before you get the wire in. Also I got a new soldering iron and think I had the heat set too high. Should have stuck with ol faithful!
 
Also @WoodiE just a heads up on that soldering jig, if using it to solder bullet connectors, remember it is aluminum so it acts like a giant heatsink so it can make heating up the connector a bit tricky.
That's a very good point and I have seen similar jigs that are indeed made from all aluminum which would defeat the purpose of heating up the bullets. This particular jig is made from a plastic like material where the bullets are held.

Also per the product details in the link provided: "Thermal Insulating Layer: Black thermal insulating layer surrounded by the holes, which can effectively prevent heat propagation"

I use and love my XT150 connectors. They handle 8s with ease and are super simple to solder without worrying about melting anything. I also have mine set up so that the positive and negative can plug into each other, which is what I wanted so that I can run packs in series without any adapters or extra wiring.
XT150 connectors are another good selection for sure!
 
I like the ec5 in terms of it's ability to stay together while bashing, but I like the deans plug better just because there's a much bigger variety with deans plugs than ec5. not too familiar with other plugs
I feel the deans just don't stay together under heavy bashing conditions. In my experience. The ec5"s don't come apart unless I unplug them.
 
You guys with soldering problems are likely suffering from heat dissipation from the large gauge wires.
 
I'm all in with the xt90 anti spark connectors. I feel like they hold together even better than the standard xt90. I have all of my larger RC's on that system. I do have a little MERV that still runs the Traxxas connectors... But those tiny little batteries only go to that.
 
You guys with soldering problems are likely suffering from heat dissipation from the large gauge wires.


Or an under-powered iron.

Good time for this thread to pop up. I am headed to my bench with a bunch of connectors and wires to put together.

I have to make a cord to go from my power supply to charger, and 2 long cables to go from the charger to my 2 bat boxes.
 
I feel the deans just don't stay together under heavy bashing conditions. In my experience. The ec5"s don't come apart unless I unplug them.
yeah i've noticed in some cases the deans don't stay together all too well, I have also noticed however that depending on how much strain is put on the connection, the better it stays on
 
Old school iron at work.
 

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I feel the deans just don't stay together under heavy bashing conditions. In my experience. The ec5"s don't come apart unless I unplug them.
I agree 100%!. But every battery I get for this car gets a ec5. I too love how they stay together. Not one has come apart on me.

Old school iron at work.
Oh yeah! I remember when this type of soldering tool was all there was, way back in the 1970s. Glory days!
 
And simply raise it up to the infra red over my head for the heat shrink.

Oh yeah! I remember when this type of soldering tool was all there was, way back in the 1970s. Glory days!


This Weller very well may be from the 70’s- no polarized plug and appears to be Bakelite construction. Love it.

Yup- manual inside the case has an 05/73 print date

Today’s mission accomplished.

Made two xt60 extension cords so I can go from my charger into the bat boxes, and the fun one- a 10awg xt90 to xt60 to plug my 1500w 60a 30v power supply into my charger.

Used liquid electric tape on that one. Not pretty, but functional.
 

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