Mojave Best steering servo Mojave

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I know of Pro Modeler. A good company. This servo peaks my interest. Thanks for the heads up.
I'm just tired of the fanfare Futabas, Hitec's and Savox's. I've been buying the AMZ cheap stuff that lasts as long as the aforementioned. But I want a real servo. I don't mind paying. Just not for BS.:cool:
I just don't get it... let's say We buy RC cars for around 500-700 dollars or euros and have to change servos constantly, it's ok if it's around 20-30 per servo, but it won't last, ok, we have to spend around 70-100 for good servo, but it's the 5th of the total price of the car itself?!?!. Makes me mad sometimes, just saying..
 
@RC newbie ,
Don't feel so bad, when I was new to the hobby 30+ years ago, I said the same thing. Back then you got a plastic gear 2 kg Futaba servo for $120. It was for my $110. TA Pan car kit. The radios back then were $350.-600. There was limited selection. The electrics are always going to be the largest chunk of $$ in any rig. At least today we have mega amounts of choices. Many of the old name high end brands like Futaba, Hitec, Savox only rest on their name, not any significant quality in my opinion. There is much competition now. RC is way much cheaper than it was years ago. I was spending $90-100. for a stupid 7.2v Nicad back in the day. RC racing heats only lasted 5 minutes. Many DNF because batteries never made it to finish. It might last about 18 runs and I couldn't race with it any longer. And I would buy another and another..... :cool:
 
Bumping this thread as

1. It's the first to come up when one searches google for "Mojave upgrade servo"

2. The promoddler servo linked earlier in the thread is discontinued, but the equally sexy DS555BLHV has taken it's place. 470 OZ on 4.8V in a waterproof servo is insane. Seems a good value at $110.

3. The Spektrum servos that come with the Mojave aren't getting great reviews on Horizons main site. My experience matches all the reviwers; went to go put my third pack through my Mojave, things start up ok, and then go to turn the wheel just a bit and the Rx just dies. figured maybe a bad Rx, so put another SR315 on, and it kills that too; same deal, soon as I turn the servo it kills the rx. No binding in linkage, and on previous run I drove the truck right back into my garage under her own power. first time I've had a failure like this before. My LHS that I got my truck from is getting on the horn with HH on monday to get this worked out. They agree this should be a warranty thing on a 2 week old truck that's otherwise perfectly fine.

So, wouldn't surprise me if this thread starts getting more eyes on it as the latest Spektrum bedecked generation of Mo's start to roll out in greater numbers.

Now the question is do I just play the 'buy once cry once' game and pony up for the amazing looking Promodler, or split the difference and get the still-not-a-bad-upgrade Savox :unsure:

This will be my first "big boy" servo either way; up till now it's been stock servos on my trucks, or I tend to run 20kg PowerHDs on my crawlers.

(of note, my LHS can only get Spektrum or Hitec, both of which I'm 'meh' on at this point hence the move to online)
 
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I’ve got the 630 in mine and it is awesome. The new 555 would be a great addition.
1619318534712.jpeg

1619318405357.jpeg
 
Update:

got my 555 in; bummed as I nicked the wire installing it in the holder. Is it me, or does the wire seem to exit pretty high up the case; making it difficult, if not impossible, to install into a standard size servo holder. The stock mojave holder has this issue even worse.

Also, stock spektrum horn doesn't fit. Fair enough and that is an oversight on me for not checking. But... Even though both the packaging and website list evert stat under the sun for this servo (which is impressive!)...tooth count is missing. [face-palm].


85994E30-28FF-46D4-9ECA-46CD58DDA33D.jpeg

2E2B2853-284F-45E0-9A47-7874B1D8DA9A.jpeg


A standard Futaba air servo I had on my bench for comparison:

736ED8C9-C65E-42DB-967A-4E8ECEF7E499.jpeg



This is further made a bit annoying, as the spec page still has stats for the older 470 servo, including a diagram which clearly shows the wires exiting the housing much lower. Given there are no photos on the listing that show the back of the housing, this does feel a tad misleading.
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Update:

got my 555 in; bummed as I nicked the wire installing it in the holder. Is it me, or does the wire seem to exit pretty high up the case; making it difficult, if not impossible, to install into a standard size servo holder. The stock mojave holder has this issue even worse.

Also, stock spektrum horn doesn't fit. Fair enough and that is an oversight on me for not checking. But... Even though both the packaging and website list evert stat under the sun for this servo (which is impressive!)...tooth count is missing. [face-palm].


View attachment 143516
View attachment 143517

A standard Futaba air servo I had on my bench for comparison:

View attachment 143518


This is further made a bit annoying, as the spec page still has stats for the older 470 servo, including a diagram which clearly shows the wires exiting the housing much lower. Given there are no photos on the listing that show the back of the housing, this does feel a tad misleading.
View attachment 143519
I am looking at upgrading mine straight out of the box. Are you using a standalone battery for the servo or running it off the BEC? @Mr.Duke
 
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I have wrecked more servo’s than any other part. I fly, boat and drive and have destroyed servos in all three. I have tried all the name brands and several of the unbranded. To date, the ProModeler is the only one that I will use. Their customer service has been awesome and I cannot recommend any other servo.
Make sure to set your END POINTS!! Doesn’t matter the brand, if they’re not setup right…. You know the answer. :cool:
 
I went ahead and ordered the DS630BLHV servo. I am running a separate 3s pack for the fans. To those of you with this servo, are you running it from the stock bec or did you run a separate battery and standalone bec for it? Thanks in advance.



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Here is what I do, I run my servo and RX off a 2S battery. The reason I do this is, I have had and have seen so many ESC’s catch fire and most of them were from pulling to many amps from the BEC or the BEC wasn’t the best quality. If you run off a separate battery, you are providing clean, full voltage to the servo. Your also letting the ESC pull all its power from its power source too.
The servo and RX can run for 4-6 hours off of a 2000mah 2S battery and if you don’t want to worry about putting another lipo in storage voltage, I would recommend getting an A123 (lithium iron phosphate) battery. With this battery you don’t have to worry about putting it away fully charged or low charged. The only negative about using this battery is, it has a lower voltage than a lipo, but if provides PLENTY of power for the servo and RX.

Also, if you ESC decides to go up in smoke, it won’t take your servo and RX with it!!
 
Here is what I do, I run my servo and RX off a 2S battery. The reason I do this is, I have had and have seen so many ESC’s catch fire and most of them were from pulling to many amps from the BEC or the BEC wasn’t the best quality. If you run off a separate battery, you are providing clean, full voltage to the servo. Your also letting the ESC pull all its power from its power source too.
The servo and RX can run for 4-6 hours off of a 2000mah 2S battery and if you don’t want to worry about putting another lipo in storage voltage, I would recommend getting an A123 (lithium iron phosphate) battery. With this battery you don’t have to worry about putting it away fully charged or low charged. The only negative about using this battery is, it has a lower voltage than a lipo, but if provides PLENTY of power for the servo and RX.

Also, if you ESC decides to go up in smoke, it won’t take your servo and RX with it!!
Interesting option for sure. So the only thing I would have running off of the esc is the rx if I go the castle route.
 
@aahwhatever2 I believe was saying that Both the Rx and the Servo will power off the Aux battery. If I understood him right.
The ESC remains powered by the Main Lipo(s). Only the ESC control Signal passes through to the Rx. if I am correct.
 
@aahwhatever2 I believe was saying that Both the Rx and the Servo will power off the Aux battery. If I understood him right.
The ESC remains powered by the Main Lipo(s). Only the ESC control Signal passes through to the Rx. if I am correct.
Right, that’s how I read it. I’m already running a 6s and a 3s but my rx can’t take more than 2s voltage. I don’t want a third battery.
 
Yes, that is what I was saying. As for running a second 3S, you are correct, that you do not want to run the RX off of it. That is why I suggested a second battery to be a 2S, then you could run both the servo and RX from it. The RX requires very little amps and should run fine off of the ESC.

I come from flying RC planes and we always try to keep (or have to keep) the power plant separate from the servos and RX. If you lose propulsion during a flight, you still will have a connection and control to land the aircraft (hopefully without breaking!!). I try to follow the same rule with my surface vehicles as we did with running nitro and a separate battery for control. It has saved more than one vehicle from complete destruction!! LOL.

Either way “we” choose to do it, it is for the love of the hobby.
 
Yes I understand this from my Nitro rigs.
You have a power failsafe for the Steering and RX with an electric rig.
 
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