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Im looking for help what are the best up grades for making this car the strongest it can be
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BTW, do you want my parts list I planned for the Notorious I'm planning on buying?Im looking for help what are the best up grades for making this car the strongest it can be
Ya thats were im at. Im pritty hard on it so sence i don't drive in winter would put some money into it on down timeYeah, thats almost exactly my parts list.
I don't think you realy need anything immediately. What you must do is get metal chassis braces, because if stock ones break, they take a lot of other things with them (heared on this forum somewhere, and saw on YT Aussie RC).
All the other things, I'd only upgrade when they break. Why buy an M2C chassis for $130, when you possibly don't need it? I'd only buy it if something breaks, but I'm inexperienced, so eh.
No heat problems hear any more buddyWhy so many fans? If you're having heat issues, wouldn't a MAX6 + 1650kv be a good solution?
Nice truck. Thinking. M2cClick my build thread badge and you can see what ive done mine. Shimming diffs, new bearings, new stronger towers and a chassis is a must. Have fun with your new rig.
Don't forget the better hardened shock standoffs for those shock towers. You will need them.RPM: front bumper, A-arms and rear skid plate
M2C: Chassis + chassis braces + shock towers + rear shock tower brace
I would say that's the minimum upgrades to have a really strong car. Then you can consider the M2C hinge pin kits front and rear, but that's pricy.
True! I have the shock standoff in stock and I'm waiting for the stock ones to fail. I also have the PPS mount and it's indeed fabulous! Not essential, but I agree it is a very functionally superior upgrade.Don't forget the better hardened shock standoffs for those shock towers. You will need them.
PPS motor mounts are very nice also. They are pretty trick and very functional as an upgrade.
metal diff cases are a good upgrade and the metal gearboxes are great to have but most importantly no matter what route you take please shim your diffs inside and out properly. There is countless threads on here on how to shim them and there is even more threads of guys crying that arrma sucks cuz their diffs popped. Its a flaw with tolerances by arrma granted but it's a super easy fix and your diffs will be solid if done right. Also it's a good opportunity to change out the fluids in them. I run 500k center, 70 up front and 50 in back but you can also do 50 up front and 30 in the back if you want(less stress on the front diff ). Get new bearings and a radio right away the stock radio is a death trap and should have never been sold with these rigs, I run a 6 channel dumborc radio I got for under 50 bucks and it goes super far with great response times(way better than stock anyways). If you plan on jumping it metal chassis braces are a must and depending on how high you want to go a new chassis and beefier towers will be in order. Oh and don't make my rookie mistake and get stoopid metal a arms....they break stuff! Like chassis'Ya just did that with new shocks. Is there a better diff that i should be using
Imagine how us V1 guys feel at this point in time. Some of the parts I have "upgraded" 3-4 times because better products became available. Back when I got my first Arrma, we literally had Voltage Hobbies, GKA, Markhor, M3 and Hot Racing.Lot of good ideas above ^^, when you're finished you will be in the 1K 6S club. ?
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