BicketyBam's Kraton EXB

[bicketybam]

@robert@castle Well I will have to do something because this isn't even close. And the reason I don't like the leads with zero slack is that once you land a big jump,the chassis will pull the plugs apart. Happens every time with my Typhon which happens to have a MMX in it. Is an extra inch of wire really going to add that much ripple? And adding a harness wouldn't?

 

[Jimbobjr]

The longer the wires are the harder it is on the ESC because the wires increase ripple. The closer the battery and external cap packs are to the ESC, the better. It is the same length wires as we have on the Monster X, putting longer wires on it was never a thing we thought about doing. We were debating if we needed to use a larger gauge of wire, but the length was never questioned. We generally recommend people wire a harness like Rcproponent showed.

Doesn’t adding a connector to connect again to a harness add resistance. If you put it in the k8s those wires will need to be at least double that length. Either let us cut them to length or easy access to solder our own. Idk...

 

[bicketybam]

I'm at the point where I need to get the battery connections squared away. After that I will bind it, calibrate the ESC, fine tune the ESC settings and set the suspension geometry. The only aftermarket parts I used was the HR servo horn/linkage and an old M2C rear skid.

 

[gotnitro]

Add a platinum tipped flux capacitor in-between the connectors and it should fire the ripple current to ground gigawatts. Paprika congibeators keep the ESC’s ambient temps normal. It should sway the Ackerman to the opposite torque side.

 

[Kingpin]

I kinda agree on the battery wire length. I'm not using the harness just plan on going straight to a 6s battery. I will probably end up cutting the ends off and adding an extension.

 

[SrC]

There are two issues with the Savox 1210 (actually 3 if you add in how overpriced they are.)

1. You need to shim it a lot to fit this new mount. It's not even close.

2. The opening is so tight and the Savox servo lead is higher up thus making it nearly impossible to fit the servo in without damaging the wires.

View attachment 90527

This servo will be coming out once I get my Amazon special.

Limited slip in the center and front only. I opened all 3.

Arrma did say limited slip only at center and front. They have a reason. I am sure it's been tested.
I am surprised the servo is that much of a problem. I know the 1210. It is taller than most. But I have used it in my Kraton with a HR servo mount...... wire clearance was fine and I was able to get the servo to float off the chassis with shimming and keep the servo arm level enough as well. Not that I am any great fan of the 1210. I am using an AMZ Fanmodel 25kg as my cheapo servo right now(6v BEC). The1210 servo ears cracked. Replaced the 1210 top case/ears but it lives in my crawler now. AMZ Cheapo served me well so far in my Kraton at 1/3 price of the 1210. FWIW.

 

[robert@castle]

@robert@castle Well I will have to do something because this isn't even close. And the reason I don't like the leads with zero slack is that once you land a big jump,the chassis will pull the plugs apart. Happens every time with my Typhon which happens to have a MMX in it. Is an extra inch of wire really going to add that much ripple? And adding a harness wouldn't?

[]90528[/ATTACH]

That's fair. Like I said, we never really considered it. Kinda an oversight on our part. When we were designing it we didn't think it would work in vehicles of that size. We were targeting 1/8 or 1/7th scale vehicles. We never dreamed it would as well as it does in 1/5th scale. Things like this often get overlooked in product development because we get used to the limitations and how to get around them.

Can you spin the battery so the wire comes out the front? It looks like there is a plastic cap on it but could that be trimmed or removed to allow the wires to come out the front? With the velcro strap attaching at the front, there should be no need for a rigid cap like that.

 

[SrC]

I kinda agree on the battery wire length. I'm not using the harness just plan on going straight to a 6s battery. I will probably end up cutting the ends off and adding an extension.
View attachment 90546

I agree, if you use a single 6s brick, wiring is most efficient and short. But single 8S bricks are hard to come by if 8s is your firm objective.

Add a platinum tipped flux capacitor in-between the connectors and it should fire the ripple current to ground gigawatts. Paprika congibeators keep the ESC’s ambient temps normal. It should sway the Ackerman to the opposite torque side.

don't forget about the tail light fluid. Many forget to fill that up. A common mistake we all make.

 

[SrC]

That's fair. Like I said, we never really considered it. Kinda an oversight on our part. When we were designing it we didn't think it would work in vehicles of that size. We were targeting 1/8 or 1/7th scale vehicles. We never dreamed it would as well as it does in 1/5th scale. Things like this often get overlooked in product development because we get used to the limitations and how to get around them.

Can you spin the battery so the wire comes out the front? It looks like there is a plastic cap on it but could that be trimmed or removed to allow the wires to come out the front? With the velcro strap attaching at the front, there should be no need for a rigid cap like that.

Good point. Having the lipo leads forward/close to the ESC always makes sense. I even shorten them enough if too long. The XLX is usually mounted centerline, reducing necessary wire. The X8S is mounted to the RH side in the ESC tray necessitating a longer wire travel in general.

 

[jym73]

@robert@castle Well I will have to do something because this isn't even close. And the reason I don't like the leads with zero slack is that once you land a big jump,the chassis will pull the plugs apart. Happens every time with my Typhon which happens to have a MMX in it. Is an extra inch of wire really going to add that much ripple? And adding a harness wouldn't?

View attachment 90528

Even with longer wires the plugs can unplug often with me. Now i put zip tie to hold both plugs, male on female. Even if it add work to remove them, have to cut the zip tie, put new on, i prefer put them anyway.

 

[SrC]

It appears that the only EXB upgrade part Arrma has for the EXB roller is the hardened steel shock EXB standoffs.
@bicketybam, can you confirm this? I don't see EXB standoffs in any pictures of the EXB.

https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA330703

 

[olds97_lss]

Can you spin the battery so the wire comes out the front? It looks like there is a plastic cap on it but could that be trimmed or removed to allow the wires to come out the front? With the velcro strap attaching at the front, there should be no need for a rigid cap like that.

You probably can, the front of the battery box raises up on metal posts to accommodate different sized packs, then there's a gap. However, for big jumpers, having the leads lay on the battery pack allows you to strap them down with velcro to keep them from popping apart on lawn dart landings. I added a strap to my outcast just for that. My xt90's are squarely between two straps of velcro on each end. It's the only 6S truck I have that lets me do that and it's also the only one that doesn't pop apart on a 20 foot lawn dart impact. lol!

Here's mine after putting the packs in:

 

[bicketybam]

That's fair. Like I said, we never really considered it. Kinda an oversight on our part. When we were designing it we didn't think it would work in vehicles of that size. We were targeting 1/8 or 1/7th scale vehicles. We never dreamed it would as well as it does in 1/5th scale. Things like this often get overlooked in product development because we get used to the limitations and how to get around them.

Can you spin the battery so the wire comes out the front? It looks like there is a plastic cap on it but could that be trimmed or removed to allow the wires to come out the front? With the velcro strap attaching at the front, there should be no need for a rigid cap like that.

This is my 1/8 scale Kraton, not the 1/5 scale. As far as running the battery in the other direction, I'd prefer not to. I'll just extend the wires. Thanks for listening and maybe they will end up a bit longer somewhere down the road ???

 

[gotnitro]

don't forget about the tail light fluid. Many forget to fill that up. A common mistake we all make.

Could always wire nut 3-4 inches of 8 on to it and save the ripple for the cheese party later! I love my ESC's with extra wire nuts!

In all seriousness I own 2 of them and agree the wires are a bit short.

 

[bicketybam]

Arrma did say limited slip only at center and front. They have a reason. I am sure it's been tested.
I am surprised the servo is that much of a problem. I know the 1210. It is taller than most. But I have used it in my Kraton with a HR servo mount...... wire clearance was fine and I was able to get the servo to float off the chassis with shimming and keep the servo arm level enough as well. Not that I am any great fan of the 1210. I am using an AMZ Fanmodel 25kg as my cheapo servo right now(6v BEC). The1210 servo ears cracked. Replaced the 1210 top case/ears but it lives in my crawler now. AMZ Cheapo served me well so far in my Kraton at 1/3 price of the 1210. FWIW.

Steve, I'm talking about using the the Savox 1210 servo with the new Arrma EXB servo mount. They don't play well together. I use the same servo with the Voltage Hobbies servo mount and I didn't even have to shim it. Also the wire fit though without issue. Not the case with the Arrma EXB mount.

 

[Rainger40]

Oh man those wires on the savox I’m upset and it’s not even mine haha. I hate when stuff like that happens especially on high dollar parts.

 

[olds97_lss]

Oh man those wires on the savox I’m upset and it’s not even mine haha. I hate when stuff like that happens especially on high dollar parts.

I wasn't paying attention and totally messed up my 1210sg wire taking it out of the armorwerks mount similar to what you did here... nearly severed the wires. Doesn't really matter as the fets were blown in the servo again, but that adds to the complication of fixing it.

 

[bicketybam]

Oh man those wires on the savox I’m upset and it’s not even mine haha. I hate when stuff like that happens especially on high dollar parts.

I wasn't thrilled but it is what it is. That servo is coming out anyway ???

I wasn't paying attention and totally messed up my 1210sg wire taking it out of the armorwerks mount similar to what you did here... nearly severed the wires. Doesn't really matter as the fets were blown in the servo again, but that adds to the complication of fixing it.

Because of where the wire is located on the servo and how tight the EXB mount is, you would be hard pressed not to damage the wire. If you pass the wire through first, you can't get the servo in. Believe me, I tried ?

 

[bicketybam]

Few more pictures. ???

 

[Rcproponent]

Few more pictures. ???

View attachment 90566View attachment 90567View attachment 90568

Excited for mine, but I haven’t even gotten a tracking number yet ??‍??‍