Big bore shock’s aluminum vorteks, typhon, big rock

@9G

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So I purchased this big bore shocksd for my Vorteks and typhon and had them like two weeks and I see the right front shock got bent I haven’t bash on them yet..loljust run them on the street..and put 50W oil on them..so I need change the oil? So where I bought them at refund me the money and purchased the high performance big bore shocks with 4mm shaft so does anybody know if I’m putting the right oil shocks? Or maybe adjusting them? What u guys opinion? Thanx

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Those are the EBay specials...in one word they are TRASH. I tried a little bit of everything to get them right on my Talion and eventually had to give up. I put a metal bearing on the outside to add more preload. I swapped in some Tekno springs. I added bladder cups in the top cap cause they don't come with any. When the shaft wasn't bending like yours they leaked badly...I mean REAL BAD from the top (even with the bladder cups) and from the bottom onto the shaft. I noticed oil buildup in the bottom that attaches to the arm. I finally gave up after about 3 sets. They look good though...but they work terrible and I don't even jump my cars cause I'm a street basher. They couldn't even handle that. Only good part on them is the springs and that's iffy at best. After numerous crashes and total carnage I learned the hard lesson that your suspension setup can prevent a ton of other damage just by optimizing the handling and driving characteristics of your vehicle. These shocks are a NO NO...I'd go back to something stock and tweak your oils and and springs. The extra money for stock shocks will save you plenty money down the line by preventing crashes due to bad handling.
 

slick2500

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Those are the EBay specials...in one word they are TRASH. I tried a little bit of everything to get them right on my Talion and eventually had to give up. I put a metal bearing on the outside to add more preload. I swapped in some Tekno springs. I added bladder cups in the top cap cause they don't come with any. When the shaft wasn't bending like yours they leaked badly...I mean REAL BAD from the top (even with the bladder cups) and from the bottom onto the shaft. I noticed oil buildup in the bottom that attaches to the arm. I finally gave up after about 3 sets. They look good though...but they work terrible and I don't even jump my cars cause I'm a street basher. They couldn't even handle that. Only good part on them is the springs and that's iffy at best. After numerous crashes and total carnage I learned the hard lesson that your suspension setup can prevent a ton of other damage just by optimizing the handling and driving characteristics of your vehicle. These shocks are a NO NO...I'd go back to something stock and tweak your oils and and springs. The extra money for stock shocks will save you plenty money down the line by preventing crashes due to bad handling.
Exact same experience I had with that guys shocks. @jr744 was trying to convince me they were the best thing since sliced bread. It is threads like this that make me glad I decided not to try another set.
 

Velodromed

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  5. Vorteks
  6. Voltage
It’s a fun little beastie lol. It also has typhon arms/turnbuckles, m2c motor mount/brace and m2c +5 17mm hex. I’m painting a new body for it before long.

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GRC

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She is a sexy beast I might copy you..lol🤣🤣
I would not copy that set up. No offense to Velodromed, if he enjoys it, that's great, but it's a very unusual setup that is not ideal.

First, notice how high the front of his Vorteks is. He used Mojave front shocks. Mojave front shocks are 108 mm. Stock Vorteks front shocks are 87 mm. That's 21mm too long and it tilts the front higher than the rear.

He also switched to a Granite front shock tower. Granite front shock towers are taller than the Vorteks and will reduce the tilt created by the longer Mojave shocks. But Granite front shocks are 100mm. So the 108mm Mojave front shocks are still 8mm too long. You can see the front of his Vorteks is still higher than the rear. There is no reason to change your shocks AND shock tower for a setup that still results in an uneven stance.

Next, since his Vorteks is higher off the ground, it will roll over more easily. To counter that, he also installed wider Typhon arms, which helps prevent rollovers. Your Vorteks does not have wider Typhon arms. If you get shocks that are too long, you're going to be rolling over all the time.

And before you also change to wider Typhon arms, realize you already have a Typhon and Big Rock. Both of them have Typhon arms. The Vorteks has shorter shocks and shorter arms for quicker turning performance than the Typhon and Big Rock. Why would you change your Vorteks to be the same as vehicles you already have?

In many of your posts, you're asking for upgrades without understanding what difference those upgrades will make. Velodromed's shock setup will be more durable and may land jumps better than stock. But it probably handles worse on the ground. Is that what you wanted?

Slick2500's shock thread that I posted has lots of information to make a well-informed choice for shock upgrades. https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...d-blx-4s-shock-information-and-upgrades.7413/ Below is the section about the Vortex.

Arrma Vortex 4x4 BLX.
  • Stock front shocks for the Arrma Vorteks are 87mm eye to eye.
  • Stock rear shocks for the Arrma Vorteks are 109mm eye to eye.
As with the shocks for the 3s and 4s models these will need something to take up the space in the upper shock mount.

Arrma Limitless/Infraction/Felony
These will fit the front of the Vorteks.

Thanks to @Enferius being the guinea pig these springs look like they will work https://www.amazon.com/AXIAL-AX31284-Spring-40mm-6-3/dp/B012FV95PM


Arrma Mojave 6s shocks.
These shocks will only work on the rear of the Vorteks.

You will want springs pn ARA330637 these are the closest Arrma springs to the stock Vorteks spring in stiffness, they are slightly stiffer, 1.13N/mm (6.5lb/in) vs 1.06N/mm (6.05lbf/in) for the stock Vorteks rear springs, the springs are the same length 70mm.

Armma Talion 6s shocks.

These shocks will only work in the rear of the Vorteks.

You will want springs pn ARA330637 these are the closest Arrma springs to the stock Vorteks spring in stiffness, they are slightly stiffer, 1.13N/mm (6.5lb/in) vs 1.06N/mm (6.05lbf/in) for the stock Vorteks rear springs, the springs are the same length 70mm.

Traxxas GTR Shocks.

Get VG Racing springs. https://www.vgracing.com/product/GTR_Springs.html

Proline PowerStroke shocks for the Slash.

Proline Pro Spec shocks for the Slash.


Losi Tenacity DB Pro shocks.
Cheapo eBay shocks for the Slash.
These are just like the cheap eBay shocks for the Granite listed above with all the same problems.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/283944199963?hash=item421c64a71b:g:2yoAAOSwal5YLnxH
  • Fronts 88mm eye to eye
  • Rears 103mm eye to eye

ZD Racing Shocks.
Looking at the Q/A and reviews the springs might be on the soft side.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H5C93F...NRJPKYRAGVBQ?_encoding=UTF8&tag=arrma-20&th=1
  • Fronts 85mm eye to eye
  • Rear 105mm eye to eye
 
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Velodromed

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  5. Vorteks
  6. Voltage
I would not copy that set up. No offense to Velodromed, if he enjoys it, that's great, but it's a very unusual setup that is not ideal.

First, notice how high the front of his Vorteks is off the ground. That's because he used Mojave front shocks. Mojave front shocks are 108 mm. Stock Vorteks front shocks are 87 mm. That's 21mm too long! If you get Mojave front shocks for all four corners, your Vorteks will be completely tilted with the front higher than the rear.

He also switched to a Granite front shock tower. Granite front shock towers are taller than the Vorteks and will reduce the height difference of the Mojave shocks. But front Granite shocks are still only 100mm. so the Mojave front shocks are still 8mm too long. You can see the front of his Vorteks is still higher than the rear.

Next, since Velodromed's Vorteks is higher off the ground, it will roll over more easily. To counter that, Velodromed also installed wider Typhon arms, which helps prevent rollovers. It looks like your Vorteks does not have wider Typhon arms. If you get shocks that are too long, you're going to be rolling over all the time.

And before you also upgrade your Vorteks to Typhon arms, realize you already have a Typhon and Big Rock. Both of them have Typhon arms. The Vorteks has shorter shocks and shorter arms for quicker turning performance than the Typhon and Big Rock. Why would you change it to be the same as vehicles you already have?

In many of your posts, you're asking for upgrades without knowing why you're upgrading or what difference those upgrades will make. The shock thread link I posted has great information. Slick2500 put in lots of information to make a well-informed choice of what shocks will work with which vehicles and why some will be better than others.
Good observations but not all are correct. It’s handles amazing for how I like to drive. Jumps, carves and stays very planted. It does not sit that high up front when driving, I’d just set it on the table for pics. It levels off nicely once running.

But let’s look at why I did this to my vorteks to begin with. I simply didn’t like it. During my first year of rc I had no clue what I liked. Got the vorteks as a Father’s Day gift and after a few runs…blah. I’m not a speedster I realized. I like dirt basing with moderate jumps.

So I started changing it, that’s the beauty of Arrma parts bin cars. The transformation was slow and still going on. Some changes sucked but the ones that worked for my driving style I stuck with. Having the same shocks front to back with wide arms and MX28s gives it a low slung dirt carving zippy feel which I love for park bashing, and yet I can also send it 20 feet with out concern at the skate park. For me it’s a near perfect swb all terrain and send it car. I can also put it back should I want to some day.

Hell, look what I did with my other 3s car that I didn’t like, Old Yeller. Started as a typhon but I found I didn’t like it. Now it’s the near perfect LWB car for my driving style and what I like. Mixing and matching these things is rather fun. But yeah, what I like means nothing to y’all and everything to me. What y’all like means everything to you and nada to me. It’s all good man 🙃

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GRC

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Yes, your changes accomplish all those things and are improvements for the way you drive. But based on dan207265_RC's posting history, I'm not sure he realizes how all the different changes you made work together. He started this thread because his shock shafts bent. If he just got Mojave front shocks for all four corners, I have a feeling his next post would be asking why the front was tilted up and why his Vorteks was rolling over more easily.

If his goal is more durable shock shafts that won't bend like the Big Bores, some of the options provided in Slick2500's thread are more straightforward and won't require different arms or shock towers.
 
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Velodromed

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  2. Granite
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  5. Vorteks
  6. Voltage
Yes, your changes accomplish all those things and are improvements for the way you drive. But based on dan207265_RC's posting history, I'm not sure he realizes how all the different changes you made work together. He started this thread because his shock shafts bent. If he just got Mojave front shocks for all four corners, I have a feeling his next post would be asking why the front was tilted up and why his Vorteks was rolling over more easily.

If his goal is more durable shock shafts that won't bend like the Big Bores, the Arrma 6s options provided in Slick2500's thread are more straightforward options that won't require different arms or shock towers.

I understand your view somewhat. But I prefer not to do somebody else’s thinking for them or assume that I know what they’re trying to accomplish. I remember when I was new to this hobby it was a poop show of experimentation and learning (still is much of the time). I wouldn’t want to take that away from somebody as it is a valuable part of any hobby, the ‘triage trial’ phase of an interest.

Besides, people typically don’t learn by being told, they learn from experience. Much like how you can’t just tell somebody that they’re doing something wrong, it’s better to help them realize it themselves (also works great with young kids sometimes). This avoids a clash of egos. Guided but not necessarily led. I think this is true especially in a format where there is no direct association with each other.
 

slick2500

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I understand your view somewhat. But I prefer not to do somebody else’s thinking for them or assume that I know what they’re trying to accomplish. I remember when I was new to this hobby it was a poop show of experimentation and learning (still is much of the time). I wouldn’t want to take that away from somebody as it is a valuable part of any hobby, the ‘triage trial’ phase of an interest.

Besides, people typically don’t learn by being told, they learn from experience. Much like how you can’t just tell somebody that they’re doing something wrong, it’s better to help them realize it themselves (also works great with young kids sometimes). This avoids a clash of egos. Guided but not necessarily led. I think this is true especially in a format where there is no direct association with each other.

What he is trying to get at is that your setup might not work for what the op wants to do with the car. All he is looking for is suggestions on direct replacement shocks, not something that requires him to change half the car. Remember the K.I.S.S. principle when it comes to these cars. No need to make things way more complicated than they need to be.
 
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