Big Rock Crew Cab paint color?

[jonUF02]

Anyone know what body paint would be close to the BRCC blue? I love that color, and I hate the stock poop color of the Outcast 4s. Time to make a custom painted body.

 

[SrC]

PS30 Tamiya?
With the right backer it may get you close. There are other Tamiya blues. Tamiya has the best selection IMO. Ultimately your call. Silver, White or Black or a combination of them as a backer coat may get you close. Unfortunately colors you see on a PC don't translate well. That's why I usually try to get them at LHS if I have specific color scheme in mind. My PL Raptor was backed in Black.
Silver, then opaque white may work better as a backers for you? Just some ideas.

 

[jonUF02]

From some Google images, PS30 backed with white might do it. I'm not a big fan of Tamiya paint though. Spazz Stix electric fluorescent electric blue may be a good one too.

 

[SrC]

Spazz STix Chrome and backer Black is awesome. I've used Tamiya and Spazz Stix together. They seem compatible too. Tamiya is expensive for the quantity you get though. But also seems easier to get most of their colors. And the cans are pressurized higher. IMO. I seem to rarely run out of propellant before the can is empty. ?Some don't favor Tamiya. I don't know why. I feel it is great for Lexan. As long as you don't lay it on too thick. But that holds true for many paints. Duratrax offers better quantity cans for the $$, but it's hard to find most of their colors, even on-line. I also warm up my paint cans in hot tap water. It helps alot. Less paint spitting from the tips.

 

[jonUF02]

I had good experience with Duratrax, I'll check their colors. Last body I used Spazz Stix pearl coat which is mostly clear, then the Tamiya which wrinkled up on the second coat. I let 24hr dry between coats. I saved the main color with lots of coats, but the Tamiya also lays on really thin, so it may even take more than 1 can for a basic 1/10 body.

 

[SrC]

I always buy two cans of each color when I buy Tamiya. Or, I almost always run out. That's why I say Tamiya can get expensive. Some of their PS colors cost 2-3$ more per can depending. I like Duratrax. Just cant find all their colors with one vendor when I need. PL makes bottles of paint now, but you need to airbrush them. I don't have an interest in Airbrush equipment. Although they are inexpensive these days, and you save on paint, can mix your own colors etc, and get more finer detail. But also takes a bit longer to change out colors, clean etc. There are caveats to air brushing. I'm a "rattle can" guy like Hemistorm says. Hemistorm swears by Tamiya PS. But even he said in the ?Netherlands? he has a real hard time getting them. And he buys them by the case. All the colors. I'm not sure if he is Dutch or exactly where he's from. I always wonder why Polycarbonate paint costs so much more than basic spray paint which you can find in "large cans". Whats in it that makes it stick well to PC bodies? Does it need to be so expensive? Or is it just the hobby Industry that exploits the high price of PC paint?
It appears to cost more than gold per ounce.

 

[SrC]

I had good experience with Duratrax, I'll check their colors. Last body I used Spazz Stix pearl coat which is mostly clear, then the Tamiya which wrinkled up on the second coat. I let 24hr dry between coats. I saved the main color with lots of coats, but the Tamiya also lays on really thin, so it may even take more than 1 can for a basic 1/10 body.

Pearl coats are always light and need to be backed up with opaque white. Pearl should be layered in light coats or it runs easier.

 

[jonUF02]

Pearl coats are always light and need to be backed up with opaque white. Pearl should be layered in light coats or it runs easier.

Maybe not worded clearly, I put on a nice pearl coat of Spazz Stix let it dry a couple of days. Came back with Tamiya over that. First coat looked OK, waited 24h to dry, second coat made it wrinkle up, to where I could see lines through the solid color coat.

 

[SrC]

My bad. Wow. I did it it in reverse I used Tamiya first and came back with Spazz for my final colors. Never saw that incompatibility. I have had wrinkle ups before. But not like that. Thanks. need to avoid that for sure. Wrinkles suck big time. Hard to correct if at all. Spazz has a way different odor. Diff. paint carrier? I use a heat gun between coats. and let coats set for about 1/2 hour between colors usually. I generally use the same paint brand. Not always. I may have some left over of other brands at times and may use as final stripes and graphics and what not.
I will heed your exerience and avoid that. Im in the middle of trimming one AE Rival MT8 body(1/8) for my Noto. Got 3 of them for $5./piece. on AE clearance. That was the Old Rival bodies that AE discontinued. I don't mind screwing up cheap bodies. IF it happens. But I rarely screw them up. I am not a great painter. I cant brag at least. I like wrenching more. But I probably have painted 20+ bodies to date over the years.

 

[jonUF02]

I saved it with a lot of coats, which you need for Tamiya paint anyway.

 

[slick2500]

Don't forget about Pactra paint from Testors. https://www.amainhobbies.com/pactra/b-slu-145