Big Rock Big Rock Crew Cab

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I think i just had bad luck. The truck is awesome.
It's how Arrma solves it and sending a complete new one is awesome.

The Granite, Senton, and BRCC are all the same in terms of reliability
 
Pal of mine piled up the big rock yesterday, we went for a bash today, very impressed. He did smash the wheelie bar at the back and the front bumper though.
 
I put my mt10e wheels /tires on the BRCC and get plenty enough traction now. Also softer landings. Trouble is they rub a little on the rear fender wells.

Any solution for an extended body mount set?

Also, if I could get the body a little tighter to the chassis they'd work....as an alternate solution.
I have a Granite set on order and hope they don't rub.
If they do rub, I may be able to tighten the body to the chassis with some velcro in the front and rear.
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They rub at full throttle.

I hate to trim the body. If I could get some extended body mounts or maybe tighten the whole kit with velcro I'd be in good shape. I definitely like the mt10e set on there vs stock. We'll see. I'll get some beers in me tonight and think through it. I'd also like to see what other bodies I can fit. I'd like something like that new Proline '56 F100 sct body. I really love the way it looks with a good paint job. I'd prolly have to get some street tires though to make em fit right under the wheel wells. And of course this would make it an entire new look.

https://www.prolineracing.com/bodies/1956-ford-f-100-pro-touring-street-truck-clear-body.asp

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They rub at full throttle.

I put the Granite wheels and tires on tonight and went outside. They showed up.
The Granite wheels and tires are best bet for me on BRCC and I get no issues at all so far. Seems to be the same compound as the mt10e rubber, they feel nice and grippy but no rubbing at all for me.
The mt10e *tires are nice but the wheel offset doesn't work and makes the rub on the rear fender well too much. I think they're about 1/2" too tight to the body but haven't done any research to compare exact measures. Can't beat the price for the new set, black chrome. I really didn't hate stock but wanted more punch up and I still like the original set for falling back on.
Time to test on ramps finally and I'll try not to be so poor at making video. I have the tools but not so much the patience.
 
I drove the brcc today for the first time and the motor bearing on the pinion side exploded at the 3rd lipo.
Also the spur gear is worn out. Not happy with this, that gear mesh is way to tight. I should have fixed it. Also the gearbox was full of sand, is that normal with these trucks?
Let's see how Arrma warranty looks like.
Right now i am done with this truck.
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That looks very average dude !! I’ve got one on order mmmmm don’t know I should do.
 
That looks very average dude !! I’ve got one on order mmmmm don’t know I should do.
Yeah i know. But for now i haven't seen anyone else having this problem. The new one will arrive at the lhs next week. I am going to check the mesh first before taking it home. Will let you know!
 
I drove the brcc today for the first time and the motor bearing on the pinion side exploded at the 3rd lipo.
Also the spur gear is worn out. Not happy with this, that gear mesh is way to tight. I should have fixed it. Also the gearbox was full of sand, is that normal with these trucks?
Let's see how Arrma warranty looks like.
Right now i am done with this truck.

This truck needs to be cleaned out after running if you are in sandy or dusty conditions. I pop the power module, brush down the spur with a toothbrush and re-install. Stock drivetrain bearings only last a pack or two and need to be replaced with rubber sealed bearings.
 
This truck needs to be cleaned out after running if you are in sandy or dusty conditions. I pop the power module, brush down the spur with a toothbrush and re-install. Stock drivetrain bearings only last a pack or two and need to be replaced with rubber sealed bearings.
Every rc car needs to be cleaned after driving in dusty conditions. It's just not ok how much dirt and sand was sucked into the gearbox, that design works like a vacuum cleaner. Sealed bearings were installed before first use, it's mandatory for all my Arrma's driving them in sand.
 
I hate to trim the body. If I could get some extended body mounts or maybe tighten the whole kit with velcro I'd be in good shape. I definitely like the mt10e set on there vs stock. We'll see. I'll get some beers in me tonight and think through it. I'd also like to see what other bodies I can fit. I'd like something like that new Proline '56 F100 sct body.

not the look you are going for but the 72 c10 I have on my maxx fits the wheelbase of the senton pretty good, haven't drilled the holes yet but I think I just had to flip around one of the body posts to make it sit on it as though it would work once I do drill it. the gmc top kick body for the savage xl BARELY would fit inside the senton bumpers but it would take some trimming to make it sit down over the bumper bracket/bracing. plus the front end wasnt going to be easy to get the body mounts in I don't think. maybe the smaller top kick body would work better.
 
Every rc car needs to be cleaned after driving in dusty conditions. It's just not ok how much dirt and sand was sucked into the gearbox, that design works like a vacuum cleaner. Sealed bearings were installed before first use, it's mandatory for all my Arrma's driving them in sand.

No, I mean the power module needs to be removed and cleaned out each time after running in dusty conditions. It gets a lot more dirt in there than most cars.
 
No, I mean the power module needs to be removed and cleaned out each time after running in dusty conditions. It gets a lot more dirt in there than most cars.
Yes i understand and have seen that. But i am not going to do that after every lipo. The next one will get a hole in the chassis beneath the spur.
 
Yeah, some people are taping over the bottom gap. Mine doesn't get that bad, but I don't run in sand (only BMX track dirt) and after a few packs I just pop it and clean it at the end of the day.
 
After examining mine, I’m pretty sure the issue is not that gap, but actually the hole at the bottom for the spur gear. When I removed the module there was a little sand pit underneath it. And I think that the spur gear actually take the sand from there and suck it into the dust cover.
 
Too bad the module slides in instead of dropping in. Then you might be able to put some thin adhesive backed foam to the chassis and have the module seal against that to keep the dirt out. But with the module>diff input connection I can see how that wasn't even an option.
 
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