Kraton BLX 2050KV side to side play on shaft...

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don't want to be mean but this is just lack of maintenence, i remplaced my front bearings with ceramic hybrid sealed from acer racing.
Your lucky your bearing didnt explode instead it just grounded the shaft
Maybe try filling and leveling the groove with a product i cant tell ya.

I don't think thats a good idea. Might risk to burn up the esc.
Not necessarily, this could easily be caused by a faulty bearing.
 
Thats what im saying a faulty bearing. A lack of maintenence
No I literally mean a faulty bearing, like it wasn't any good to begin with it can and does happen.
 
Hey man, I just upended it up and seems like everything else is fine. There are 2 bent thin washers on the bottom of the shaft before a thick spacer, are they supposed to be straight or is it OK like that? Also, the bearings seem fine to me but the shaft literally has play in the inner ring part of one of the bearings????
The spacers are supposed to be bent. They are spring spacers that prevent shock damage to the bearings.
Your bearings are toast. Just buy 2 new ones as long as the armature is NOT damaged. Bricked bearings will ruin the armature in many cases. And the motor will seize/lock up.
If the arm. is damaged (wrap) frayed, The whole motor is toast.
Then don't waste money on new bearings. Armatures are NOT replaceable. Need to buy a new motor in that case. You can keep the old motor for spare parts on a new, same motor.

Looks like you never maintained that motor. Never opened it before or lubed those bearings. The armature is dirty, the shafts are all galled out where the bearings sit. In the future maintain that motor frequently. Any motor needs this every 15 packs or so, depending how and where you bash. Especially lubing the bearings with a drop of oil. EVEN a brand new motor should get a drop of oil on the bearings. Some come with DRY bearings. They are cheaply made very fast. Leave nothing to chance. I open my motors when brand new. And have found a few with bad armatures( wrapped poorly and fraying). This can lock up motor. I return them asap.
Just my thoughts. :cool:




EDIT:
I looked at the first picture closely. That armature is bricked. The output shaft is rusted out and worn. New bearings will not help there. you neglected the motor.
Start shopping a new motor dude.. Think about maintaining your new motor. Stay out of the wet.
 
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The spacers are supposed to be bent. They are spring spacers that prevent shock damage to the bearings.
Your bearings are toast. Just buy 2 new ones as long as the armature is NOT damaged. Bricked bearings will ruin the armature in many cases. And the motor will seize/lock up.
If the arm. is damaged (wrap) frayed, The whole motor is toast.
Then don't waste money on new bearings. Armatures are NOT replaceable. Need to buy a new motor in that case. You can keep the old motor for spare parts on a new, same motor.

Looks like you never maintained that motor. Never opened it before or lubed those bearings. The armature is dirty, the shafts are all galled out where the bearings sit. In the future maintain that motor frequently. Any motor needs this every 15 packs or so, depending how and where you bash. Especially lubing the bearings with a drop of oil. EVEN a brand new motor should get a drop of oil on the bearings. Some come with DRY bearings. They are cheaply made very fast. Leave nothing to chance. I open my motors when brand new. And have found a few with bad armatures( wrapped poorly and fraying). This can lock up motor. I return them asap.
Just my thoughts. :cool:




EDIT:
I looked at the first picture closely. That armature is bricked. The output shaft is rusted out and worn. New bearings will not help there. you neglected the motor.
Start shopping a new motor dude.. Think about maintaining your new motor. Stay out of the wet.
I have to open it up every 15 packs??? or is a drop of oil on the exposed front bearing enough and then open it up like all 3 months or sth? Also, what do you think about running this old worn one until the new one arrives? just found a good deal on the firma 4074 2050kv motor but shipping would be around 30 days...
 
It really depends on where you run, fine dirt or wet che k every 15 packs or sooner. On grass and normal non dusty dirt I check halfway through the season and oil once per season, that is 40 packs or so.
Get a $3 motor bearing and bash until you have a new motor is my opinion. ESC won't blow up or get damaged.
Keep water away from motor and all electronics.
 
View attachment 129139View attachment 129140
Here you go. Let me know if you need other pics

Run it until it breaks, can't do any more harm. Order a new one, this one most likely won't last much longer. Order standard bearings (non-ceramic) for this one though. Seems like you only need the one in the front.

On the spacers/shims/wobbly washers, yes they are supposed to look like that. They provide pressure on the rotor and give some minimal flex.

This ^ they are actually a spring washer.
Definitely keep running it, but replacing that bearing on the shaft side is a must. This will at least minimize wobble until you get a new motor. Too much wobble and you'll toast a pinion or maybe even the spur in the center dif. About those two spring washers. I'm the guy who forgets that they're there, and they always fall off as I'm taking everything apart. Funny thing though. I've always put them back to back when assembling the motor, like horse shoes facing away from each other. Just made sense to me as it means there is more pressure pushing the rotor to the front of the can. If anyone can find an exploded view of the BLX 2050kv motor showing the actual configuration of those two spring washers, I'd really appreciate it.
 
thanks for all the answers guys! I just noticed that the screw holes just go all the way through the front plate and lead into the motor - maybe I should seal them up to keep the dirt out? this one had quite a lot of dirt inside!!! also, I'm taking apart my typhon motor for maintenance now, hope there won't be any surprises :-(
 
Typically the V4 motor mount covers those holes but yes plug them up if exposed. I filled mine with a little silicone but anything will do, just make sure you have a clean mounting surface. I wouldn't use tape for that reason. Should also be easily removable, you might need those holes again in the future.
 
Typically the V4 motor mount covers those holes but yes plug them up if exposed. I filled mine with a little silicone but anything will do, just make sure you have a clean mounting surface. I wouldn't use tape for that reason. Should also be easily removable, you might need those holes again in the future.
The V3/V2 motor mount doesn't cover them up unfortunately. I don't have any silicone on hand, do you think the type of screw that is also used as droop screws (but shorter) would be OK too?
 
If it fits, sure. That's a lot of holes to plug though.
Highly recommend to get your hands on a V4 mount, eliminates all kinds of problems. Not sure how easy it is to get for you though.
 
View attachment 129139View attachment 129140
Here you go. Let me know if you need other pics
Pics distort and show illusions. Before you write that spindle off, do you have a micrometer or vernier caliper? The caliper would work best. It probably IS shot at the "groove" where bearing sits. Only 3 ways to tell, one of the above or put back together, with new bearings and test it. Possible the "wobble" can be countered with mesh. Obviously the main issue was faulty bearing.. doesn't hurt to try. But watch it and listen to it. Hook it up,plug it in,run it for a few seconds. Either way, replace when you can for peace of mind.
The spacers are supposed to be bent. They are spring spacers that prevent shock damage to the bearings.
Your bearings are toast. Just buy 2 new ones as long as the armature is NOT damaged. Bricked bearings will ruin the armature in many cases. And the motor will seize/lock up.
If the arm. is damaged (wrap) frayed, The whole motor is toast.
Then don't waste money on new bearings. Armatures are NOT replaceable. Need to buy a new motor in that case. You can keep the old motor for spare parts on a new, same motor.

Looks like you never maintained that motor. Never opened it before or lubed those bearings. The armature is dirty, the shafts are all galled out where the bearings sit. In the future maintain that motor frequently. Any motor needs this every 15 packs or so, depending how and where you bash. Especially lubing the bearings with a drop of oil. EVEN a brand new motor should get a drop of oil on the bearings. Some come with DRY bearings. They are cheaply made very fast. Leave nothing to chance. I open my motors when brand new. And have found a few with bad armatures( wrapped poorly and fraying). This can lock up motor. I return them asap.
Just my thoughts. :cool:




EDIT:
I looked at the first picture closely. That armature is bricked. The output shaft is rusted out and worn. New bearings will not help there. you neglected the motor.
Start shopping a new motor dude.. Think about maintaining your new motor. Stay out of the wet.
What I don't get is why the left side seems straight and right has a curve. Shouldn't be possible, right? Unless I'm missing something could be an illusion due to the corrosion/wear markings/dirty part of spindle/armature. You have the RC experience so what do you see that im missing?
 
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If it fits, sure. That's a lot of holes to plug though.
Highly recommend to get your hands on a V4 mount, eliminates all kinds of problems. Not sure how easy it is to get for you though.
I closed the holes up with heavy duty electrical tape from the inside. which problems exactly does it solve?
Pics distort and show illusions. Before you write that spindle off, do you have a micrometer or vernier caliper? The caliper would work best. It probably IS shot at the "groove" where bearing sits. Only 3 ways to tell, one of the above or put back together, with new bearings and test it. Possible the "wobble" can be countered with mesh. Obviously the main issue was faulty bearing.. doesn't hurt to try. But watch it and listen to it. Hook it up,plug it in,run it for a few seconds. Either way, replace when you can for peace of mind.

What I don't get is why the left side seems straight and right has a curve. Shouldn't be possible, right? Unless I'm missing something could be an illusion due to the corrosion/wear markings/dirty part of spindle/armature. You have the RC experience so what do you see that im missing?
nah the wear on the shaft is the same on both sides
 
Prevents dirt and water from getting through the obvious openings prolonging motor life. Dirt will now only enter through the bearing and that is maintenance.
V4 mount, easier to get to motor with slide mount and if you get a 4985 motor it will now fit without mods, plus the holes are covered by default.
 
That reminds me, I’m going to throw the boat motor I bought accidentally in my Notorious. I have a lot more than extra screw holes to cover.
😬

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Good luck with that! By all means go for it but if you run in dirt this will end ugly. I'd try some alu tape (for air ducts) and cover with better duct tape. Alu foil and zip ties might work as well but you won't win a beauty contest with it ;)
 
Good luck with that! By all means go for it but if you run in dirt this will end ugly. I'd try some alu tape (for air ducts) and cover with better duct tape. Alu foil and zip ties might work as well but you won't win a beauty contest with it ;)

I’ve got some heavy foil duct tape. I’m not too worried about it, I won’t be run i g an RC boat anytime soon, so I’ll run it until it breaks. 👍 It was only $50 so no big deal.
 
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