BLX ESC Issues & Resolutions

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I have been researching new escs and motors when the time comes the blx system goes out.

Some here report less than a couple of months (or a handful of hours) run time before they had issues.

I acquired my granite 3s blx and kraton 6s blx (in that order) just last month maybe two weeks apart from each other.

Granted they were manufactured longer than that and the kraton 6s I have is the v4 (latest I believe?).

So my question is would it benefit me now to just buy the replacement system (non blx esc and motor) and keep it on hand for when the stock goes out?

I was looking at just external bec to boost the voltage for the steering servo to 7.2v but if the esc/motor will eventually crap (in short time) I might as well get a newer system overall. No?
Most aftermarket ESCs will support up to 7.2v and some even do 8.4v. I would get a preorder in for a MMX8S IIWM
 
I was looking at the hobbywing xr8 plus and the xr8 sct pro for the kraton6s and granite 3s.

The MMX8S IIWM I can't seem to find the spec page. I found the THIS but I am unsure if that's the one you are referring to.

Motors I am still scratching my head on hahaha.
 
I was looking at the hobbywing xr8 plus and the xr8 sct pro for the kraton6s and granite 3s.

The MMX8S IIWM I can't seem to find the spec page. I found the THIS but I am unsure if that's the one you are referring to.

Motors I am still scratching my head on hahaha.
Yes that is it. IIWM = If It Were Me
 
Simple solution for everyone having issues with the esc’s. Go to settings and put the esc on nimh BUT YOU WILL NEED a low voltage buzzer or low voltage checker or you will ruin your batteries first time.I’ve gone thru multiple blx100 and blx185 cause it would always cut out rite away. So I turned lipo setting off and put it on nimh and I’ve had absolutely no problems In any of the esc’s that I thought were broke..Now they all run great like their suppose to. Problem is the lvc is set way to high from factory and now way to change it. Just a cheap quick fix without buying a new esc or sending it back to arrma.
 
Just sent the below to Arrma & was wondering if you guys had any input.

Typhon 6s AR106001
Running 2 X 3S overlander 11.1v 5000ma
Factory 2050kv blx motor.
Factory radio gear.

I think my BLX180 esc has failed.
While bashing normally, paused for a moment, when I got on the throttle again the car took off at full speed, ignoring any input from the transmitter, I even turned the transmitter off hoping the fail safe would stop it but no.
It bounced off severvel bushes around me and eventually got stuck in one, still on full throttle until I got to it and turned it off.

Now when I turn it on I get the low voltage blue blinking light, the fan does not run.
I've tried different fully charged batteries, disconnecting the motor, the servo, the receiver, no effect.
I tried a Flysky FS-GR3E receiver I run on another car and the reciever started smoking ? now dead.

I couldn't find the spec, but does the ARX100 run on 7.2v by chance? (The FS-GR3E runs 6.4v max).

Anyway, I don't expect you to replace it as it out of warrenty but thought you'd like to know about it.
On the forums there is talk off the blx180 failing with the voltage protection but not of it taking the car off on it's own.

I'd also like to ask about the blx185 as a replacement.
The blx180 is 180amp and can out put 7.2v on the bec.
The blx185 is 150amp and can only do 6v on the bec.
Won't this slow my typhon down?

I'm only running a 6v servo anyway after the stock servo failed.
But doesn't less amps mean less speed for the motor?
 
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Just sent the below to Arrma & was wondering if you guys had any input.

Typhon 6s AR106001
Running 2 X 3S overlander 11.1v 5000ma
Factory 2050kv blx motor.
Factory radio gear.

I think my BLX180 esc has failed.
While bashing normally, paused for a moment, when I got on the throttle again the car took off at full speed, ignoring any input from the transmitter, I even turned the transmitter off hoping the fail safe would stop it but no.
It bounced off severvel bushes around me and eventually got stuck in one, still on full throttle until I got to it and turned it off.

Now when I turn it on I get the low voltage blue blinking light, the fan does not run.
I've tried different fully charged batteries, disconnecting the motor, the servo, the receiver, no effect.
I tried a Flysky FS-GR3E receiver I run on another car and the reciever started smoking ? now dead.

I couldn't find the spec, but does the ARX100 run on 7.2v by chance? (The FS-GR3E runs 6.4v max).

Anyway, I don't expect you to replace it as it out of warrenty but thought you'd like to know about it.
On the forums there is talk off the blx180 failing with the voltage protection but not of it taking the car off on it's own.

I'd also like to ask about the blx185 as a replacement.
The blx180 is 180amp and can out put 7.2v on the bec.
The blx185 is 150amp and can only do 6v on the bec.
Won't this slow my typhon down?

I'm only running a 6v servo anyway after the stock servo failed.
But doesn't less amps mean less speed for the motor?
I have a V1 kraton with the red motor. Also I had the BLX180 but that thing was not very reliable. So that is why I ordered the BLX185 at Ron's Rc. Glad I bought this ESC. Running times are a lot higher and with 4s and 6s there is still plenty of speed. No problems!! And I even have the old red motor!!
 
Simple solution for everyone having issues with the esc’s. Go to settings and put the esc on nimh BUT YOU WILL NEED a low voltage buzzer or low voltage checker or you will ruin your batteries first time.I’ve gone thru multiple blx100 and blx185 cause it would always cut out rite away. So I turned lipo setting off and put it on nimh and I’ve had absolutely no problems In any of the esc’s that I thought were broke..Now they all run great like their suppose to. Problem is the lvc is set way to high from factory and now way to change it. Just a cheap quick fix without buying a new esc or sending it back to arrma.

I like this a lot. I’m noticing on both of my one week old 6S rigs (Mojave and Talion) that the esc cuts out very early, just under 4V with the 6S 6500 75C (also brand new) battery packs I am running.

I’m a newb and originally was thinking this was a heating issue and was about to invest a bunch of money in fans, but this is Oregon in spring, ~55-60 F and restarting the rig brings it right back to life. Seems like motor fans are for the hardcore guys (all stock here) so I’d like to get my moneys worth out of the batteries if this is a viable hack. It’s annoying to pony up all the cash for those extra mAh and get denied the runtime because the ESC is so voltage conservative on the 185 BLX.

The Venom voltage monitor is only $20 and a simple install that will let your 6S batts run down to 3.3V before sounding a loud alarm.

Any other 6S lipo operators daring enough to operate in NiMH mode on your BLX 185 with a voltage alarm? I like this idea a lot
 
..oops, except the new-gen ESCs no longer permit you to reset LVA by switching to NiMH

So, what now? Back to fans after all?
 
I've had my Senton 3s for about a month now, bought new at my local hobby shop. I've ran about 6-8packs so far. There have been instances where I've been running for a bit and then it seems that the truck halves its speed. At that point, it's been my impression that the battery was dead and I would swap it to the other and run some more. This all seemed feasible until last night. I had just bought some street tires and was testing it out on my road last night...~5m in, the truck halves its speed..at this point i KNOW the batteries not dead. I took it to my bench and checked the voltage on the batter and was registering 12.17v, fresh it was like 12.34...I plugged it back in, turned it on and the truck was normal again...so off I went. Ran for about 5-10 more minutes and it all of a sudden stopped in the middle of the road. I tried to hit the throttle a few times and then all of a sudden it just started twitching and sounded "grindy" when I applied throttle in either direction. Almost acted as if I had broken something in the drive-line. I brought the truck in, and started to attempt to do a n00b diagnosis. I pulled the center shaft out to see if the issue was still there, it was...so not thinking it was an electrical issue, I took the motor assembly out and removed the entire rear diff...everything looked perfect...so as I reassembled the truck, decided, wonder if I can plug in the motor without it being connected to the drive-line to see if this issue continues, which in my eyes would narrow the culprit down to the ESC or motor. The issue did, indeed, still happen. I put the truck completely back together and hit the forums and found this thread and am suspicious that this is my issue (ESC)...I am trying to find an LED code key...does such a thing exist? Something to tell me what the blinks all mean. When I turn it on, It gives one green blink, then a pause and then starts erratically blinking red and that never stops....what does that mean? lol Sorry for such a long winded post, just wanted to provide some substance and to show my n00b status =( Thanks in advance for any information / assistance anyone is able to provide.
 
I've had my Senton 3s for about a month now, bought new at my local hobby shop. I've ran about 6-8packs so far. There have been instances where I've been running for a bit and then it seems that the truck halves its speed. At that point, it's been my impression that the battery was dead and I would swap it to the other and run some more. This all seemed feasible until last night. I had just bought some street tires and was testing it out on my road last night...~5m in, the truck halves its speed..at this point i KNOW the batteries not dead. I took it to my bench and checked the voltage on the batter and was registering 12.17v, fresh it was like 12.34...I plugged it back in, turned it on and the truck was normal again...so off I went. Ran for about 5-10 more minutes and it all of a sudden stopped in the middle of the road. I tried to hit the throttle a few times and then all of a sudden it just started twitching and sounded "grindy" when I applied throttle in either direction. Almost acted as if I had broken something in the drive-line. I brought the truck in, and started to attempt to do a n00b diagnosis. I pulled the center shaft out to see if the issue was still there, it was...so not thinking it was an electrical issue, I took the motor assembly out and removed the entire rear diff...everything looked perfect...so as I reassembled the truck, decided, wonder if I can plug in the motor without it being connected to the drive-line to see if this issue continues, which in my eyes would narrow the culprit down to the ESC or motor. The issue did, indeed, still happen. I put the truck completely back together and hit the forums and found this thread and am suspicious that this is my issue (ESC)...I am trying to find an LED code key...does such a thing exist? Something to tell me what the blinks all mean. When I turn it on, It gives one green blink, then a pause and then starts erratically blinking red and that never stops....what does that mean? lol Sorry for such a long winded post, just wanted to provide some substance and to show my n00b status =( Thanks in advance for any information / assistance anyone is able to provide.
First thing I would say is you need to know the individual cell voltages if you packs. Total voltage doesn’t tell you much. You need to see if one cell is off.

Next, there have been reports of the BLX100 ESCs having bad firmware that hits low voltage cutoff (LVC) early. They hit at around 4.0-3.8v per cell, which is about half charge. They should cut off around 3.4-3.6v per cell.

Lastly, your lipo could be overrated or lower than needed C rating. The manual calls for 35C minimum, but C ratings are usually complete lies. It’s an arbitrary value the manufacturer assigns and is usually way off. So, we generally say buy the highest C rating you can reasonably afford. 50C or higher is all I will ever buy. For my speed run cars, I buy the very best available. For bashers, 50C in a decent brand is plenty good enough.
 
First thing I would say is you need to know the individual cell voltages if you packs. Total voltage doesn’t tell you much. You need to see if one cell is off.

Next, there have been reports of the BLX100 ESCs having bad firmware that hits low voltage cutoff (LVC) early. They hit at around 4.0-3.8v per cell, which is about half charge. They should cut off around 3.4-3.6v per cell.

Lastly, your lipo could be overrated or lower than needed C rating. The manual calls for 35C minimum, but C ratings are usually complete lies. It’s an arbitrary value the manufacturer assigns and is usually way off. So, we generally say buy the highest C rating you can reasonably afford. 50C or higher is all I will ever buy. For my speed run cars, I buy the very best available. For bashers, 50C in a decent brand is plenty good enough.
I'm using HRB 5000mAh 11.1v 50C shows 50C/Discharge and 100C/Burst...you got me looking and I found, on both batteries, the ground wire is ground down to the copper...I'm guessing from the center shaft? Ugh...can that be electrical taped or ill-advised? Especially to test the theory of the battery being the issue?
 
I'm using HRB 5000mAh 11.1v 50C shows 50C/Discharge and 100C/Burst...you got me looking and I found, on both batteries, the ground wire is ground down to the copper...I'm guessing from the center shaft? Ugh...can that be electrical taped or ill-advised? Especially to test the theory of the battery being the issue?
I would put some shrink tube on it myself, but tape would be ok if that’s all you have. You have to make sure you keep your wires out of driveshafts. Use some velcro wrap or zip ties to keep them out of the way.
 
I would put some shrink tube on it myself, but tape would be ok if that’s all you have. You have to make sure you keep your wires out of driveshafts. Use some velcro wrap or zip ties to keep them out of the way.
Yep, I swore they were out of the way, but I'll run out to get...well damn, 4th of July, might have to wait =(

I'm guessing though, that taping or shrink tubing isn't going to make a difference at this point...if it is due to this wear, most likely it has eaten through some of the wire and it's not carrying the full load...not sure the proper thing to say there lol...is that a safe assumption? I'll see if I can borrow someone's lipo and test to see if that's still happening. What is the LED flash telling me?
 

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Yep, I swore they were out of the way, but I'll run out to get...well damn, 4th of July, might have to wait =(

I'm guessing though, that taping or shrink tubing isn't going to make a difference at this point...if it is due to this wear, most likely it has eaten through some of the wire and it's not carrying the full load...not sure the proper thing to say there lol...is that a safe assumption? I'll see if I can borrow someone's lipo and test to see if that's still happening. What is the LED flash telling me?
Those are pretty superficial IMO and just need covered. Again, I would simply heat shrink them. Or use some liquid electrical tape. Not the end of the world tho.
 
Those are pretty superficial IMO and just need covered. Again, I would simply heat shrink them. Or use some liquid electrical tape. Not the end of the world tho.
Just attached my motor to someone else's ESC (another Senton 3S) ram perfectly, so I guess that's my answer? Lol
 
No, however, I tried a different LiPo in my truck prior to trying their ESC attached to my motor and I had the same issue... Only resolve this far has been connecting to his ESC
Sounds like you got to the bottom of it then. ??
 
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