BLX100 - At a loss for high temps

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Arrma RC's
  1. Typhon 3s
Hey all. Happy Veterans Day.

On my Typhon 3S my ESC is white hot compared to my motor. This is weird to me but maybe it’s not. The specs I think are relevant:
  • 18T Robinson Racing Xtra Hard pinion, HR motor mount
  • Arrma motor fan
  • 32.5K front/15K rear diffs
  • Jim’s Bearings full swap except motor
  • Badlands Buggy or Banditos
  • Reaction2 3S 50C 5000mAh
I took the temp gun out for runs in both dirt and asphalt. The plastic housing for my BLX100 is a bit misshapen so I got suspicious. Ran it hard on both surfaces for a good 5-10 minutes before each reading.
  • Motor temps 124-147F
  • ESC temps 164-188F
ESC has the stock fan, motor has the available Arrma fan. Isn’t that quite hot for the ESC? I relocated it to the tub because of the whole caps+chassis rubbing issue, and there’s more airflow down there than the stock location. The plastic frame distorted before I relocated it. I made sure the ESC and fan were clean of debris.

Thoughts? Thanks in advanced.
 
18t pinion is really hard on the electronics i think. You are bassicly hiting 60-65mph on that gearing
Could be it, I don’t remember the ESC being this hot while on the stock 15T. You supposed the fact that the motor is so much cooler could be because it’s heatsink is simply bigger? I figured 18T would be a moderate upgrade versus overheat things. Hmm.
 
Hey all. Happy Veterans Day.

On my Typhon 3S my ESC is white hot compared to my motor. This is weird to me but maybe it’s not. The specs I think are relevant:
  • 18T Robinson Racing Xtra Hard pinion, HR motor mount
  • Arrma motor fan
  • 32.5K front/15K rear diffs
  • Jim’s Bearings full swap except motor
  • Badlands Buggy or Banditos
  • Reaction2 3S 50C 5000mAh
I took the temp gun out for runs in both dirt and asphalt. The plastic housing for my BLX100 is a bit misshapen so I got suspicious. Ran it hard on both surfaces for a good 5-10 minutes before each reading.
  • Motor temps 124-147F
  • ESC temps 164-188F
ESC has the stock fan, motor has the available Arrma fan. Isn’t that quite hot for the ESC? I relocated it to the tub because of the whole caps+chassis rubbing issue, and there’s more airflow down there than the stock location. The plastic frame distorted before I relocated it. I made sure the ESC and fan were clean of debris.

Thoughts? Thanks in advanced.


Is the fan noisy? While it's running put your fingers over the top of it to feel if its drawing good air.. if it's really noisy, then you should pull it off and service it.. pull the sticker on the back and put a drop of oil on the bushing..

When they make noise it's because they are not spinning freely, but rather wobbling in the bushing, causing fan speed to suffer like crazy..
 
Is the fan noisy? While it's running put your fingers over the top of it to feel if its drawing good air.. if it's really noisy, then you should pull it off and service it.. pull the sticker on the back and put a drop of oil on the bushing..

When they make noise it's because they are not spinning freely, but rather wobbling in the bushing, causing fan speed to suffer like crazy..
Mhm never knew that my esc fan makes a lot of noise for a maybe 30secs before going back to normal noise
 
Mhm never knew that my esc fan makes a lot of noise for a maybe 30secs before going back to normal noise


It's very common.. if its growling it's time for service... they move much more air when oiled up..
 
Should I oil it for good measure? Sounds totally fine. And can I use gun oil?

Any oil will do.. gun oil will work quite well...


How is your front end part holding up?
 
Isn't it also true that a poorly operating fan will start pulling more amps than it should there by heating up the ESC circuit which powers the fan and that'll raise ESC temps overall?

I've read of folks blaming fans for overloading that part of an ESC which causes total ESC failure.
 
Isn't it also true that a poorly operating fan will start pulling more amps than it should there by heating up the ESC circuit which powers the fan and that'll raise ESC temps overall?

I've read of folks blaming fans for overloading that part of an ESC which causes total ESC failure.
Not really. These fans barely pull any amps. Even when the bushing is worn it’s taking less than a quarter of the amperage your servo is sucking by idling.
 
Any oil will do.. gun oil will work quite well...


How is your front end part holding up?
Dude, the fit and finish is bar none amazing. Appreciate you helping me out.

Still waiting on my TBone warranty bumper, but the wait will be a bit longer.

I had, uh, an incident.

DD951428-2607-4B68-9CF4-B87464F6C6DB.jpeg

Isn't it also true that a poorly operating fan will start pulling more amps than it should there by heating up the ESC circuit which powers the fan and that'll raise ESC temps overall?

I've read of folks blaming fans for overloading that part of an ESC which causes total ESC failure.
You’re right, I think I read that as well. Plus it’s the fan plugged directly into it. I’m going to have to check. Thanks.
Is anything else getting hot? Motor wires, connectors, battery?
Checked that second, nothing feels overly hot. Battery case has no noticeable warmth, cables and EC5 connectors are barely warm, nothing seems out of place besides the ESC’s high temp.
 
Dude, the fit and finish is bar none amazing. Appreciate you helping me out.

Still waiting on my TBone warranty bumper, but the wait will be a bit longer.

I had, uh, an incident.

View attachment 53642

You’re right, I think I read that as well. Plus it’s the fan plugged directly into it. I’m going to have to check. Thanks.

Checked that second, nothing feels overly hot. Battery case has no noticeable warmth, cables and EC5 connectors are barely warm, nothing seems out of place besides the ESC’s high temp.
I had one of those last week. Dragging my feet but I am doing the chassis swap tomorrow.
 
I had one of those last week. Dragging my feet but I am doing the chassis swap tomorrow.
@jondilly1974 I gave myself an hour and committed to getting ready for my replacement chassis from Jennys.

2B908106-0E72-4FC4-8D60-41A843D8EF13.jpeg


Surprisingly it only took about 40 minutes. This was my first time tearing it down, and I gotta say I’m an Arrma fan for life.
 
@jondilly1974 I gave myself an hour and committed to getting ready for my replacement chassis from Jennys.

View attachment 53643

Surprisingly it only took about 40 minutes. This was my first time tearing it down, and I gotta say I’m an Arrma fan for life.
Yep I did my spare diffs ahead of tomorrow’s tear down. I have a chassis and towers ready to accept the swap over. My bearings are only about 10 packs old so I’m hoping they are in good shape. I’ve got a $100 worth of FE bearings on order, so it won’t be long till I’m stocked back up.
 
Yep I did my spare diffs ahead of tomorrow’s tear down. I have a chassis and towers ready to accept the swap over. My bearings are only about 10 packs old so I’m hoping they are in good shape. I’ve got a $100 worth of FE bearings on order, so it won’t be long till I’m stocked back up.
Nice. Mind if I ask you - I spilled a dab of 50K diff fluid onto the gear area of one of my diff cases. Now when I hand rotate and “pass” those 5-6 teeth through against the input gear, it sticks. I tried cleaning it with naphtha and it still sticks. I am 100% certain it spun smoothly prior to accidentally spilling the diff fluid onto it. Ideas?
 
Nice. Mind if I ask you - I spilled a dab of 50K diff fluid onto the gear area of one of my diff cases. Now when I hand rotate and “pass” those 5-6 teeth through against the input gear, it sticks. I tried cleaning it with naphtha and it still sticks. I am 100% certain it spun smoothly prior to accidentally spilling the diff fluid onto it. Ideas?
I can’t image why 50k would harm a gear? Not a clue ??‍♂️
 
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