Body cracks

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
20161203_165152.jpg



All done just need to clean up those tape on the side of the body didnt have masking tape lol
Then ready for bashing
 
Does taping and spraying the body as seen above add a lot weight? There looks to be a lot of rubber spray on there!
 
do not use spray, use Zapp Goo ore shoo goo, a stable net an something to put the glue flat.
Thats it. Is you're net thin and you flatten the glue, the layer will also be thin and lighter.
The net has to be flexible and stable in the same time. I use sometimes net from Kevlar fibers.
But them are expensive.

Regards,
lonee
 
IMG_0811.JPG
IMG_0810.JPG
do not use spray, use Zapp Goo ore shoo goo, a stable net an something to put the glue flat.
Thats it. Is you're net thin and you flatten the glue, the layer will also be thin and lighter.
The net has to be flexible and stable in the same time. I use sometimes net from Kevlar fibers.
But them are expensive.

Regards,
lonee

Why no spray?
I can't see how shoe Goo would be better, that seems even heavier than a rubberized sealant spray.
I used drywall tape, see pics above...it worked well!
I plan to spray a light coat of flex seal tonight...as ARRMAgeddon has done in the pics above.
 
sure you can use spray but depends of the thickness you will put more weight in top direction of the car.
I try always to keep the balance between weight and stability.
So i find out in the past that I had to keep the amount of glue low and as thin as possible.
More glue never made it more stable, it is just make the body heavier.
The stability itself mainly comes from the net structure and the flex and adhesive strength of the glue.
For the maximal covering with thin lexan bodys I put on 2 layers net but the second layer is turned by 45° diagonal And i glue it in one way. ( both layers at the same time)
Just my experience, and that must not be the same than yours.

Regards,
lonee
 
sure you can use spray but depends of the thickness you will put more weight in top direction of the car.
I try always to keep the balance between weight and stability.
So i find out in the past that I had to keep the amount of glue low and as thin as possible.
More glue never made it more stable, it is just make the body heavier.
The stability itself mainly comes from the net structure and the flex and adhesive strength of the glue.
For the maximal covering with thin lexan bodys I put on 2 layers net but the second layer is turned by 45° diagonal And i glue it in one way. ( both layers at the same time)
Just my experience, and that must not be the same than yours.

Regards,
lonee

Right on, I hear you.
I was planning to put a very thin layer.
Basically just enough to ensure the drywall tape is adhered to the body, and to provide some additional rigidity to the plastic while allowing for flex and thereby minimizing (to a degree), the tendency for the body to crack under momentary stress/torsion.
My goal here ultimately is to increase the strength by a small factor, I am not trying to make it bulletproof, nor am I trying to alter the weight distribution or physics of the truck.
Seeing as I will be driving during the winter months when it is quite cold, and given plastic becomes very brittle in sub zero temps... I wanted a solution that was durable and flexible - without compromising the default handling characteristics.
 
Last edited:
Japp, you´re right. The actual temperatrures are not quite good for plastic parts. We had already some breaks.
Til yet the Big Rock looks to me very stable, my colleagues had quite more damaging.
My only damaging was a body stand ans some scratches on the body and bumpers.


Regards,
lonee
 
Does taping and spraying the body as seen above add a lot weight? There looks to be a lot of rubber spray on there!
Yes it does add weight
But its worth it
Its not like it cant carry it or anything

For a bashing rig
I didnt care about the weight of the body
I want that body to last long
 
I do not like to shift the weight to the top of the car. Thats why i try to keep some reinforcements as light as possible.
Also you will have a weight-shifting of the hole rig if you are jumping and the body is to heavy.
If normally a short impulse of the trigger is enough (light weight body), you have to give much more impulse with a heavier body.
And at least it costs power.....
Maybe I am injured from building of my airplanes ;)
 
My son loves bashing this car and so do i. I tend to cringe a little when he has the control on 6S !!!
The first thing was the rear shock tower pierced through the body.
The next was the rear center of the tray. The wing arms flex so much on average landings they rip the body. I ended up cutting a piece out of the tray so they didn't run any more.
Dam that body is tough couldn't cut it with a blade had to use a jig saw.
I ended up putting some 3M 3mm tape over the impact points. C how it goes ??
IMG_2979.JPG IMG_2981.JPG
 
Is it necessary to reinforce every part of the body? With my Nero the front and sides of the body take almost no damage, but the back is completely shredded. It seems to me that reinforcing the weak points and leaving the strong points alone would be a good balance between high strength and low weight. Thoughts?
 
Is it necessary to reinforce every part of the body? With my Nero the front and sides of the body take almost no damage, but the back is completely shredded. It seems to me that reinforcing the weak points and leaving the strong points alone would be a good balance between high strength and low weight. Thoughts?

I agree with your statement. I've never felt the need to reinforce an entire body. That may partly be due to the fact that I enjoy grabbing other body styles for my vehicles, so when one wears out I have an excuse to pick up and try other styles.

For me, I usually just reinforce the area around the body post holes and any other contact points that there may be on that specific vehicle.

In the case of the Outcast, it was mentioned by a few members that the shock towers cause wear issues on the body, so I reinforced that area as well .
 
I've used a couple different methods of trying to re-enforce these Lexan bodies.
On my Senton I tried the drywall mesh,Shoo Goo,Flex Seal way.....a total PITA to do.
Makes the body super strong,but just a lot of work involved and the Flex Seal smells pretty bad til it cures.
CIMG3674.JPG


On my Outcast Baja Bug body,I used a little simpler and much FASTER method.....strapping tape!
Ever try to pull this stuff apart,it's really strong?
Takes a fraction of the time to do,much cheaper (1 roll of tape could probably do 3 cars)!
CIMG3673.JPG


Granted the Senton body is a little larger but it weighs in @ 15.3oz. and the Baja Bug @ 7.9oz.
As far as bashing goes,the Outcast has seen a LOT more backflips w/bad landings and so far no damage.
So from now on I'll be using the strapping tape method!
It's fairly easy to do once you figure how to make the tape not fold over and stick to itself,cheaper,faster....and it seems to work!
I think it looks cleaner too,you decide!:D
CIMG3676.JPG
 
I painted with everything removed from chassis. Touch up,as,I use it. I did see stick on heavy vinyl protection for some of the Arrmas on eBay. I'd probably consider that method.
 
Applied to areas of Outcast that get damaged when it lands on its topside.
1487061076004781239413.jpg
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top