Body cutting tricks?

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crimsonfancy

A guy that won't give up easily.
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I've cut out my BRCC body before painting and did an ok job keeping it close and tight to the scored lines.
What's the best tool to refine and smooth out the scissor cuts. Sandpaper or dremel style tool? I've tried to sand with the rotary tool on other plastic bodies and vibration gets sloppy...if you know what I mean. Is the ideal method to just use sandpaper by hand to clean it up and make it perfectly smooth? Was hoping I could do it faster otherwise.
 
I really have only used my 18-19 year old Duratrax curved body scissors. actually now that I am talking about it maybe I should get a new pair ?

I think I have maybe hand sanded edges a few times in over 30+ years ??‍♂️
 
If they're good quality lexan scissors it's easier to shave off high spots and slivers with them on the second pass. Block sanding takes forever and you still have to come back with scissors on occasion anyway in the curved areas
 
A good metal file works awesome!
47939
 
This is what I was looking for. Sometimes I overthink but I get it now. Thank you????
I have the Duratrax curved scissors and always leave a little room in case I need to sand. Getting more experience now and it seems like I shouldn't make room to sand like I thought I should. The scissors really do seem like the best tool.
I've cut two bodies now but no paint. One is the PL 72 Chevy Longbed that not sure where it should go.
THe other that I did yesterday is the BRCC stock body. It feels heavier and I like it and learned to cut much cleaner by staying close to the center of the scissors. We'll see if I stay motivated but I do have some paint on-hand.
 
Xacto knife and snap! A good score and bend. Smooth edges with 220.I get better results from kwiss side shears than the proline scissors.

What are the shears you mention? I bought some silly titanium coated scissors I thought could adapt but the short blades make more sense to me yet. Nail clippers design seems best. Long handles and short blades.
 
What are the shears you mention? I bought some silly titanium coated scissors I thought could adapt but the short blades make more sense to me yet. Nail clippers design seems best. Long handles and short blades.
They are tin snips. Lh or rh. Once ya get good with those you can trim nails. I have a pair in every toolbox I believe.
 
They are tin snips. Lh or rh. Once ya get good with those you can trim nails. I have a pair in every toolbox I believe.

I have some 10" tin snips and probably could trim nails but they're pretty heavy.
I watched some vids on the scoring and snap technique you mentioned and tried it some on the back of the body I'm working on. Very clean lines but I still need practice to get my score perfect.
I picked up a drum sanding kit at Harbor Freight tonight and used the 1" drum on my drill to sand the edges. Worked very well in the wheel wells but does take some time. It vibrates some too so I supported the edges and ran it around tilted to the inside of the body so I wouldn't mess up the protective outside clear paint mask.
Feelin good about the outcome so far and next I'll have to wash, mask and paint. I'll probably keep it simple this first time even though I tend to overthink and want to do it too tricky. I also only have two colors lexan paint so we'll see if I can keep it simple and clean.

Thanks for the advice, friends. ??
 
I use curved and straight lexan scissors. Little drum wheels at times in the wheel wells. I’ve gotten better at cutting them out but painting still looks like a 3rd grader did it...
I started cutting my probodyrc body last night... yeah, that sucks. Lexan scissors just push it around. After 5 minutes I had half a wheel well cut out and a cramp in my hand. Then I tried scoring with an exacto and it's a thick "gummy" plastic that likes to catch the blade, then you slip and score it in a place you don't want.

I'm going at it with a dremel tonight.
 
I'm pretty happy with the cutout I've done and am impressed with the quality of the lexan on the BRCC body I bought for only $30. At that price, it's worth practicing on to have more than one custom.
I only wish for window masks because I think I want clear windows but I think I can use the decals in reverse to make it work or to use as a template for blue tape. Somewhere I have some Tamiya masking tapes in a couple different thicknesses and if I find em, I'll be able to work in a second or third color
 
I started cutting my probodyrc body last night... yeah, that sucks. Lexan scissors just push it around. After 5 minutes I had half a wheel well cut out and a cramp in my hand. Then I tried scoring with an exacto and it's a thick "gummy" plastic that likes to catch the blade, then you slip and score it in a place you don't want.

I'm going at it with a dremel tonight.
I tried lexan scissors and xacto knife on mine and ended up using these https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-1-18-in-60CrV-Snips/1000594719
 
I started cutting my probodyrc body last night... yeah, that sucks. Lexan scissors just push it around. After 5 minutes I had half a wheel well cut out and a cramp in my hand. Then I tried scoring with an exacto and it's a thick "gummy" plastic that likes to catch the blade, then you slip and score it in a place you don't want.

I'm going at it with a dremel tonight.
I know I'm replying to this very late and you've probably finished by now!
I've done 2 lids now and I totally agree - these lids are very thick (mine were both proline).
I tried to follow a you tube tutorial that used the technique of scoring and snapping to achieve clean lines.
You need a very sharp hobby knife with fresh blade - I understand that there are different grades, sharpness etc and score along your desired line. I found that around 7 light passes was much safer than fewer heavier/deeper passes in terms of following the line that you want. After the first 3-4 light passes, you will create a little guide that you can be more confident with and apply more pressure.
Then you will get the point where you can cut breaks in the lexan with scissors and then bend it inward to snap off the unwanted portion.

I too have a dremel tool which is needed to even out some lines.
Warning: using a dremel to cut straight lines may melt the lexan given the heat from friction - you will need to shave off any molten bubbles with another dremel attachment.

Hope this makes sense - please post pictures of progress/results.
Good luck
 
I know I'm replying to this very late and you've probably finished by now!
I've done 2 lids now and I totally agree - these lids are very thick (mine were both proline).
I tried to follow a you tube tutorial that used the technique of scoring and snapping to achieve clean lines.
You need a very sharp hobby knife with fresh blade - I understand that there are different grades, sharpness etc and score along your desired line. I found that around 7 light passes was much safer than fewer heavier/deeper passes in terms of following the line that you want. After the first 3-4 light passes, you will create a little guide that you can be more confident with and apply more pressure.
Then you will get the point where you can cut breaks in the lexan with scissors and then bend it inward to snap off the unwanted portion.

I too have a dremel tool which is needed to even out some lines.
Warning: using a dremel to cut straight lines may melt the lexan given the heat from friction - you will need to shave off any molten bubbles with another dremel attachment.

Hope this makes sense - please post pictures of progress/results.
Good luck
The probodyrc bodies aren't lexan. They are more like a rubbermaid trashcan lid.

I have an old LST2 body that's pretty thick, but it's hard lexan. You just score it, bend it, it breaks. This stuff doesn't, you have to cut it all the way through as scoring it just gives it a place to bend... over and over and over and eventually it may tear, but it doesn't break off clean like lexan.

The body on my outcast is holding up well so far though. I ordered another for my brushless revo as I'm on my 3rd body in 6 months on that thing. I also have one for my stampede 4x4 that I haven't cut up yet. Basically, I'm going to have a room of orange bodies! LOL!
 
The probodyrc bodies aren't lexan. They are more like a rubbermaid trashcan lid.

I have an old LST2 body that's pretty thick, but it's hard lexan. You just score it, bend it, it breaks. This stuff doesn't, you have to cut it all the way through as scoring it just gives it a place to bend... over and over and over and eventually it may tear, but it doesn't break off clean like lexan.

The body on my outcast is holding up well so far though. I ordered another for my brushless revo as I'm on my 3rd body in 6 months on that thing. I also have one for my stampede 4x4 that I haven't cut up yet. Basically, I'm going to have a room of orange bodies! LOL!

I always explained it as a dumpster lid.

I really like that orange body it looks much better than the black.
 
I always explained it as a dumpster lid.

I really like that orange body it looks much better than the black.

I've opened plenty dumpsters and can confirm that the Russian Unbreakable body imo is exactly the same material. The Outcast one I bought I sold to a friend because I didn't want to cut it. I think there are some that come cut these days.
 
I've opened plenty dumpsters and can confirm that the Russian Unbreakable body imo is exactly the same material. The Outcast one I bought I sold to a friend because I didn't want to cut it. I think there are some that come cut these days.
Do you still have that metal one from that dude in South Dakota?
 
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