Boiling plastic should become the number one thing to do before upgrading

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Surchaufeur

Very Active Member
Excellence Award
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
7,963
Reaction score
6,685
Location
Québec
Arrma RC's
  1. Felony
  2. Kraton 6s
  3. Nero
  4. Notorious
. I have been boiling critical plastic parts like body posts and A arms on my new arrma rc trucks. When i compair the plastic who was not boiled bs boiled. The Differance is night and day. For example i was able to bend my exb arms of my kraton to a banana shape by hand vs no boiled who i almost anped my arms in half because it didnt even bent at all almost. I one tire landed on the left rear arm and it didnt break like people kept saying i instead bended a shock shaft. Arm still perfect and i can twist it side to side with my hand. Shows how more flexible they have become. Now another example arrma mojave exb mounts. I saw people breaking those On the first runs. Mine were really rigid. Decided to boil them

another key factor is boiling time. I boiled the front exb mojave body mounts for 5mins at low heat. It felt a bit more flexible than the non boiled one. Boiled the rear body mount for 10mins at high temperature. Result 2 times more flexible than the front body post but i melted completely the foam on the body post. Time and heat is key but do MONITOR THE BOILING PROCESS DO NOT LEAVE THE PART BOILING WITHOUT SUPERVISION.

im going to boil the bumper springs ma6be. But the issue with boiling plastic is you should not do this technique on plastique thatneeds to remain rigid gearboxes.
Yes i now have a mojave. Bought it for my bday✨
 
Very interesting.

I wonder if using a spray with aromatic petroleum ingredients like 3D Intant Shine on parts after you boil them would enhance this reaction? The fella who recommends this spray (or others like it) says it not only makes the parts look new but conditions the surface as well?

Anyway, your practices make sense to me not knowing much about materials science. Cheers
 
Very interesting.

I wonder if using a spray with aromatic petroleum ingredients like 3D Intant Shine on parts after you boil them would enhance this reaction? The fella who recommends this spray (or others like it) says it not only makes the parts look new but conditions the surface as well?

Anyway, your practices make sense to me not knowing much about materials science. Cheers
I tried wd40 didnt do much to increase flexibility. And why use toxic chemicals when theres a natural way to soften plastic and free?
Of what i heard boiling plastic releases stress from the plastic during the molding process at the factory
 
. I have been boiling critical plastic parts like body posts and A arms on my new arrma rc trucks. When i compair the plastic who was not boiled bs boiled. The Differance is night and day. For example i was able to bend my exb arms of my kraton to a banana shape by hand vs no boiled who i almost anped my arms in half because it didnt even bent at all almost. I one tire landed on the left rear arm and it didnt break like people kept saying i instead bended a shock shaft. Arm still perfect and i can twist it side to side with my hand. Shows how more flexible they have become. Now another example arrma mojave exb mounts. I saw people breaking those On the first runs. Mine were really rigid. Decided to boil them

another key factor is boiling time. I boiled the front exb mojave body mounts for 5mins at low heat. It felt a bit more flexible than the non boiled one. Boiled the rear body mount for 10mins at high temperature. Result 2 times more flexible than the front body post but i melted completely the foam on the body post. Time and heat is key but do MONITOR THE BOILING PROCESS DO NOT LEAVE THE PART BOILING WITHOUT SUPERVISION.

im going to boil the bumper springs ma6be. But the issue with boiling plastic is you should not do this technique on plastique thatneeds to remain rigid gearboxes.
Yes i now have a mojave. Bought it for my bday✨
you don't have a Mojave until you update your profile.
 
the problem with the arms becoming flexible is you run the risk of bending more expensive parts like axles and shocks. That force has got to go somewhere. I would much rather replace a 10$ arm than have to buy a new set of dogbones or cvds.
that being said i really like the idea of bumpers being more flexible.
 
Rc Werks(I think that is his name) on Rctech lives by boiling a arms. He doesn't run Rpm a arms on anything he owns.
 
I don't know one way or the other bros',......but I'm way too lazy to start boiling my RC bits. If it works, thats great.......but not for me.

There's a thread on this already, fairly recently too.

cheers'
kev
 
the problem with the arms becoming flexible is you run the risk of bending more expensive parts like axles and shocks. That force has got to go somewhere. I would much rather replace a 10$ arm than have to buy a new set of dogbones or cvds.
that being said i really like the idea of bumpers being more flexible.
Yes but i don't think the arms will flex like rpm it will just stop the arms from shadering too easily
not fan of the black body personally feels cheapish im searching on facebook if someone is willing to trade a new red or green
Boiling arms and bending shock shafts, not a good idea imho.
Only valid subject would be the rear wing/wheelie bar holder.
Well exb a arms are twice as expensive as a single shock shaft. The exb arms are here 22$ plus tax i think and the shock shafts are like 8$ for 2. And i didnt remplace the sjaft yet because the shock still compresses without any binding i just found the slight bend when i took the shocks for a cleanup to remove all the dirt
 
I think many US citizens are completely oblivious to how much things actually cost in the gulag to the North of them, or anywhere else for that matter.
 
Yes but i don't think the arms will flex like rpm it will just stop the arms from shadering too easily
not fan of the black body personally feels cheapish im searching on facebook if someone is willing to trade a new red or green

Well exb a arms are twice as expensive as a single shock shaft. The exb arms are here 22$ plus tax i think and the shock shafts are like 8$ for 2. And i didnt remplace the sjaft yet because the shock still compresses without any binding i just found the slight bend when i took the shocks for a cleanup to remove all the dirt
I've had my RPM ones on the front of my outcast flex so far that they twisted into each other with the hub carrier literally stuck upside down. Blew my mind that they flexed far enough to do that... took me a minute looking at it to understand what it was I was actually seeing. I pried on it a bit with my hands and it rotated back to normal. lol!

I do snap tekno shock ends on occasion, soon to be replaced with Nero HD ends. My shock shafts are tweaked a bit... but they are the originals since 2018 when I bought my outcast. As are the RPM arms on the front and rear. I have broken an RPM arm on the rear, the first week or two I had it and put them on. Must have been a fluke as they have held up fine since.

Also still running original outer cvd's and bones. I have replaced the centers once due to wear on the dogbone ears though.

Just mentioning it... doesn't seem flex "causes" broken parts too much.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top