Bombproof shock rod ends?!?!

Mr.Duke

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The 2018 Outcast with 4mm shock shafts use the same rod ends as the Nero (#AR330338)

IMG_6909.PNG

Older Outcast using the 3.5mm shock shafts use part# AR330203

IMG_6910.PNG




I'm currently using Tenko part# TKR6140B

IMG_6911.PNG
 

RCROD

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The 2018 Outcast with 4mm shock shafts use the same rod ends as the Nero (#AR330338)

View attachment 19386

Older Outcast using the 3.5mm shock shafts use part# AR330203

View attachment 19387




I'm currently using Tenko part# TKR6140B

View attachment 19388
AR330338 are the shock rod ends that are used on the Outcast/Talion/Kraton/Senton & Typhon. I gather AR330203 are the Nero shock ends? However if you say the Nero uses the same as the Outcast and other Arrma 1/8 scale (AR330338?), than what Arrma RC is AR330203 actually made for, even if it fits 4mm shaft of Outcast/Kraton/Talion, etc?
 

Mr.Duke

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AR330338 are the shock rod ends that are used on the Outcast/Talion/Kraton/Senton & Typhon. I gather AR330203 are the Nero shock ends? However if you say the Nero uses the same as the Outcast and other Arrma 1/8 scale (AR330338?), than what Arrma RC is AR330203 actually made for, even if it fits 4mm shaft of Outcast/Kraton/Talion, etc?
AR330203 are used on older models with the 3.5mm shock shafts
All the newer version with 4mm shock shafts (including the Nero) use AR330338
 
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Snoprosledneck88

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Sorry, I was actually referring to Snoprosledneck88, regarding the Tekno shock ends not looking as thick as even the stock shock ends, in the pic (1st post)? The rest of my last post, I understand why you would change the stock composite ball, but just wondered why you or others that are using different shock rod ends, would not try using a "steel ball" instead of just some spacers

The Outcast/Kraton/Talion shock ends are (#AR330338). I think the Nero shock ends are (#AR330203)?

EDIT:
I just noticed the Nero shock ends include "plastic spacers" to use inside the shock ends, & now see why you/others are using aluminum spacers, instead of a ball. Maybe a "ball" will not fit, or work very well in the Nero shock ends, as the Nero's are different than most ball style shock/turnbuckle ends?
Tekno ends are not pictured in the first post. The two posted are the new 4mm outcast ends vs the 3.5mm outcast ends. I was showing the 3.5 ends are more HD.
 

RCROD

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ok thanks everyone, as it did not seem as clear earlier. I think I have it now & it looks like there are 4 options to use on the V3 shock ends (if in fact the 3.5mm shaft ends fit?)

AR330203 - older shock ends used on V1/V2 Arrma's; Talion/Kraton/Outcast, etc (3.5mm shaft)

AR330338 - newer shock ends used on V3 Arrma's including the Nero (4mm shock shaft)

AR330409 - for 4mm shock shaft, and can be used on all newer V3 Arrma 1/8 scale. Anyone know what Arrma RC this is made for & wonder why does Arrma not offer this part in their options list?

TKR6140B - Tekno 4mm rod ends (for 4mm shaft)

Snoprosledneck88; Surprised to hear the older 3.5mm shock shaft ends (AR330203) are more HD looking than the newer 4mm shock shaft ends (AR330338), and sounds like Arrma did not plan that very well when they upgraded their V3 shocks?

It also sounds like AR330409 are the most HD and thickest of the 4, if you can get them in stock?

William, I'm confused, as it now sounds like you are not using an aluminum spacer like the others have on the shock rod ends, as I see Traxxas part 5529 does include the proper balls that allow the shock ends to pivot at the bottom?
 

RCROD

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I use the 5529 in my eyelets but they r the same concept. This is how my ends look View attachment 19391
Do you have a pic of the other side, with no flange? The Traxxas 5529 hollow balls I see look like they are 3x7mm, but no length provided in specs, as compared to Mr.Duke who used a 3x6.5x6.5mm aluminum spacer.

These Arrma balls look the correct size & should work well (1 is in stock also):
https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-3x6.8x6.3mm-ball-2-ara340075/p409531
https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-3x6.8x6.3mm-shock-ball-4-ara330206/p409477

These Tekno pivot balls also look the correct size:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekno-rc-aluminum-6.8mm-pivot-ball-set-4-tkr5049a/p231724

Some other possible 6mm ball choices (O.D. diameter maybe a bit small):
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hb-racing-6mm-light-weight-aluminum-ball-4-hbs67199/p145889
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-6mm-aluminum-pivot-ball-set-4-yokr12-15a/p242235

Some more possible choices (not sure of sizes though)?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-durango-aluminum-atype-pivot-ball-set-2-tdr330182

https://www.amainhobbies.com/sworkz-aluminum-s350-series-shock-ball-stud-4-swx-330134a/p438226
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-aluminum-hard-coated-shock-end-ball-4-yokys-6bh/p242260
https://www.amainhobbies.com/sworkz...uspension-arm-ball-stud-4-swx-330125a/p438224
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hb-rac...per-suspension-fixing-ball-4-hbs67205/p145816

I should also mention, Team Losi & sworkz use 4mm shock shafts, so both their shock ends & balls may work.
 
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Iamtheoutcast

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Do you have a pic of the other side, with no flange? The Traxxas 5529 hollow balls I see look like they are 3x7mm, but no length provided in specs, as compared to Mr.Duke who used a 3x6.5x6.5mm aluminum spacer.

These Arrma balls look the correct size & should work well (1 is in stock also):
https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-3x6.8x6.3mm-ball-2-ara340075/p409531
https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-3x6.8x6.3mm-shock-ball-4-ara330206/p409477

These Tekno pivot balls also look the correct size:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekno-rc-aluminum-6.8mm-pivot-ball-set-4-tkr5049a/p231724

Some other possible 6mm ball choices (O.D. diameter maybe a bit small):
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hb-racing-6mm-light-weight-aluminum-ball-4-hbs67199/p145889
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-6mm-aluminum-pivot-ball-set-4-yokr12-15a/p242235

Some more possible choices (not sure of sizes though)?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-durango-aluminum-atype-pivot-ball-set-2-tdr330182

https://www.amainhobbies.com/sworkz-aluminum-s350-series-shock-ball-stud-4-swx-330134a/p438226
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-aluminum-hard-coated-shock-end-ball-4-yokys-6bh/p242260
https://www.amainhobbies.com/sworkz...uspension-arm-ball-stud-4-swx-330125a/p438224
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hb-rac...per-suspension-fixing-ball-4-hbs67205/p145816

I should also mention, Team Losi & sworkz use 4mm shock shafts, so both their shock ends & balls may work.

In regards to your question about the other side of the rod end its identical to the front side. Ar330409 is a optional part on the big rock the fazon and the nero. They are way beefier then the stock arrma ends. On the left are the 409s and the right is a stock arrma end. 20180611_060320.jpg 20180611_060359.jpg

The optional ends will fit on all of the 2018 8th scales
 

RCROD

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In regards to your question about the other side of the rod end its identical to the front side. Ar330409 is a optional part on the big rock the fazon and the nero. They are way beefier then the stock arrma ends. On the left are the 409s and the right is a stock arrma end. View attachment 19397 View attachment 19398

The optional ends will fit on all of the 2018 8th scales
Thanks for the good info, as now it makes sense, AR330409 is an optional part for the Nero/Big Rock & Fazon. Yes, they're definitely beefy and a big difference in size & thickness compared to stock, & look almost the exact same length. Very nice, probably the best upgrade for shock ends that I've seen yet.

The reason I asked for a pic of the other side, is Traxxas #5529 hollow balls that you used in your AR330409 shock end upgrade, look different on each side (one side looks like it has a bigger flange). They are a good price and look like polished steel. Here is a link to Traxxas #5529, to see what I mean:
https://traxxas.com/products/parts/5529
 

Iamtheoutcast

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I didn't use the hollow balls. I used the thickest shims that also come In the 5529. I pressed them into the eyelets after soaking in wd40 for a night to allow the plastic to stretch a little bit.
 

olds97_lss

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Well, I got the tekno ends and metal balls to replace the ones on my outcast. I didn't know how bad of an issue this was until having an outcast for a week. Most of my shock ends are stretched all out of shape.

I got these:
TKR5049A - 6.8mm Aluminum Unflanged Pivot Balls
TKR6140B - Locking Shock Rod Ends and Spring Perch Set (16mm)

I thought I ordered a set of stock ends as well in case those don't fit... was around 1:30am this morning, so I could have also accidentally bought car tires. Guess I'll find out when stuff starts showing up. Oh, it was this AR330230, which was for the steering rod ends as I had one pop off on me yesterday, so figured I'd get a spare set in case I break one, or if it keeps popping off.
 
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Snoprosledneck88

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Well, I got the tekno ends and metal balls to replace the ones on my outcast. I didn't know how bad of an issue this was until having an outcast for a week. Most of my shock ends are stretched all out of shape.

I got these:
TKR5049A - 6.8mm Aluminum Unflanged Pivot Balls
TKR6140B - Locking Shock Rod Ends and Spring Perch Set (16mm)

I thought I ordered a set of stock ends as well in case those don't fit... was around 1:30am this morning, so I could have also accidentally bought car tires. Guess I'll find out when stuff starts showing up. Oh, it was this AR330230, which was for the steering rod ends as I had one pop off on me yesterday, so figured I'd get a spare set in case I break one, or if it keeps popping off.
Put a o-ring under the steering rod end to keep it from popping off.
 

olds97_lss

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Put a o-ring under the steering rod end to keep it from popping off.
I saw that on another thread, but didn't understand that either. Guess these "fixes" for arrma trucks just baffle me. :)

I usually use a concave washer larger than the eyelet on the rod end, then if it pops off the ball, it at least stays on the bolt so as to not over articulate the CVD joint causing breakage. I've had that happen before on other trucks.

If I don't have a washer, I'll drill a hole in a board near the size of the washer, then use a pinch to dent in the center of it. Helps it to not bang into the rod end as the arm articulates in normal fashion.
 

olds97_lss

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Forgot, the last time I was at the LHS, I saw some beefy looking rod ends I was going to try on my brushless revo. The shock ends get worn pretty quick and the rod ends on the pushrods connected to the rear/front rockers seem to die really fast too. I found these dubro 2319 3mm monster ball ends. They had a 4mm too, but I can't recall if the neck was fatter or if the ball itself was 4mm, so I stuck with the 3mm since that's the screw size the revo uses for the ball part.

I'm going to try a couple of those on the front, then try the Tekno ones I ordered on the rear when they show up and see how they do. The dubro ones aren't cheap. $7-$8 for 2. Some are shown as brass while others are shown as chrome plated brass with the same part number.

Took a little effort and a couple 3mm washers to take up some slop on the pin, but they do have more material around the ball and the ball is metal vs composite. I cut about 3mm off the end, there's a bit of a crown to it with a faint line where the crown stops. I cut them off there with an xacto, then dremmeled sanded with a disk flat as I could. Then I drilled them to the bottom of the existing hole, then tapped it half way for 4mm and ran a 4mm bolt into it all the way to cut the rest of the threads. Then installed in the truck and painstakingly put a couple washers, 1 on each side as I put the pin in. They fit into the stock spring cups somewhat snug, could probably wrap with teflon tape or something if you wanted it more snug.




This was how one of my front ones looked after a week of bashing:


All 4 are sloppy, but that one was really bad.
 

Mr.Duke

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I've beat the snot out of my Outcast over the last 2 months, bending a chassis, (1) upper A-arm, a busted rear diff case and crown gear, along with 2 wing mounts and an original body that's now in 2 (almost 3) pieces.
Surprisingly.....the Tekno rod ends look as good as the day I installed them. :)

IMG_7320.JPG
 

EAGLELITE

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I'm not sure anything can save rich's rod ends with how high he sends his rigs lol. I just know I used to break them often and now I don't to me it's something that works. And with the shortage of parts right now I like to keep my surplus of parts.
I’ve put fuel line bump stops inside the shocks....it softens the shock when fully extended.,,,,you could also do the same on the outside of the shock,,,,you can judge what length tubing you desire....it works great,,,takes the shock out of everything......
 
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Snoprosledneck88

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I’ve put fuel line bump stops inside the shocks....it softens the shock when fully extended.,,,,you could also do the same on the outside of the shock,,,,you can judge what length tubing you desire....it works great,,,takes the shock out of everything......
Pretty cool idea. May have to try that next time I pull my shocks out for maintenance. Thanks for the tip
 

olds97_lss

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I’ve put fuel line bump stops inside the shocks....it softens the shock when fully extended.,,,,you could also do the same on the outside of the shock,,,,you can judge what length tubing you desire....it works great,,,takes the shock out of everything......
I tried that before on various trucks on the outside of the shock and fuel line just splits. Might hold up longer inside the shock because there's less force trying to crush it on extension.

For what it's worth, I have 2 more bash sessions through on my dubro and tekno ends. So far, still tight. I ran for 3 sets of packs Sunday, tons of big air and bad landings for about 1.5 hours of hard run time.

I had one of the shock spring retainers on the dubro ends pop over the end somehow. It didn't break or anything, it just popped out of the cup and then was jammed sideways against the arm with the spring still stuck in it.

Since the tekno's are holding up so well, they fit better and don't require shims, so I think that's the route I would take in the future. Not a cheap upgrade either way, but if it lasts a long time, then it's worth it. I'm guessing if the ends do get worn, I can reuse the balls. Then it will just be $13 for a new set of ends vs $13 for ends and $12 for the balls.
 
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