Brake heat Kraton 8s vs 12s

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gotnitro

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Yesterday I ran it on 8s in the dirt/about 3'' of dead grass. We all know it takes power to brake as well as go forward obviously but what I saw (to me at least) was very interesting. Outside temps were in the lower 80's with cloud cover.

In the grass/dirt just doing some WOT passes my temps only reached 143 on the can and 112 on the ESC. Batts were 119. I didn't have to use much if any brake because the terrain was slowing it down enough to turn it around and go back in the opposite direction.

I decided to let it cool off and recharge the packs and off to the street I went on 8s.

What I found was the same amount of passes on the street brought my temps to 171 on the can, 121 on the ESC and the packs were 132. The ONLY difference I did was use the brakes on the street.

So on to 12s in the dirt. 171 on the can, 119 on the ESC and my 6s packs were both 114.

To the street on 12s after cool off and recharge, 192 on the can, 127 on the ESC and both 6s packs were 127.

Moral of the story is turn off your brakes! JK :ROFLMAO: No seriously, who'd of "thunk" brakes would create THAT much heat...
 
The street overall affords better traction. Load increases for both TH and Braking. IMHO. But yes, braking contributes to heat. How tall or short your gearing is affects Braking as well. Very tall (faster) gearing tends to over work braking. You get less braking as a result. That's why Speed Runners need very long distances for braking. They run close to 1:1 or even over drive the Pinion/ Spur gear.:cool:
BTW, an overheated motor causes less braking as the magnets get heat saturated. A bad and sometimes un-reversible issue. Motors get permanently weak with repetitive temps close to 200F losing much torque it once had. At some point the Magnetic Flux fails to recover with cool downs.
 
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Yesterday I ran it on 8s in the dirt/about 3'' of dead grass. We all know it takes power to brake as well as go forward obviously but what I saw (to me at least) was very interesting. Outside temps were in the lower 80's with cloud cover.

In the grass/dirt just doing some WOT passes my temps only reached 143 on the can and 112 on the ESC. Batts were 119. I didn't have to use much if any brake because the terrain was slowing it down enough to turn it around and go back in the opposite direction.

I decided to let it cool off and recharge the packs and off to the street I went on 8s.

What I found was the same amount of passes on the street brought my temps to 171 on the can, 121 on the ESC and the packs were 132. The ONLY difference I did was use the brakes on the street.

So on to 12s in the dirt. 171 on the can, 119 on the ESC and my 6s packs were both 114.

To the street on 12s after cool off and recharge, 192 on the can, 127 on the ESC and both 6s packs were 127.

Moral of the story is turn off your brakes! JK :ROFLMAO: No seriously, who'd of "thunk" brakes would create THAT much heat...
I would have guessed the drag of the grass would have given the opposite effect. Good info ??
 
Thick grass helps with braking, while it really loads against TH.
Loose dirt (low traction) creates less load on the drivetrain overall. (TH or braking)
Paved high traction surface loads both TH and Braking.

Does this makes sense? :unsure: It seems that way to me.:cigar:
Anyone?
 
Thick grass helps with braking, while it really loads against TH.
Loose dirt (low traction) creates less load on the drivetrain overall. (TH or braking)
Paved high traction surface loads both TH and Braking.

Does this makes sense? :unsure: It seems that way to me.:cigar:
Anyone?

That's the only logical reason I can think of for all the extra heat. (y)
 
That's the only logical reason I can think of for all the extra heat. (y)

Apart from the extra heat, I also notice the lipo's drain much faster when heavy braking.
Especially after the K8S gained some weight. (bigger motor and ESC)
 
The bigger motor and ESC alone will drain a lipo pack faster.
 
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