Kraton Brand new Kraton 4s v2 problems.

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In j
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Life is about nice steaks and best looking 6-8s rigs :)

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:)
Spot the deliberate mis-Steak? Mmm burger things with green bits 😳
Yea I said many posts ago I would try it the next day but I was posting til like 4 am so I said a lot after that. I really didn't want to believe the Arrma 4s line couldn't handle 70 mph without cogging. Which is why I ended up trying literally everything else before lowering pinion.

I knew like 2 days ago it was a possibility, and I still went through 2 whole days of troubleshooting to avoid the reality that If I had to lower the pinion, I was going to regret my purchase and feel stupid for trying another arrma 3s/4s rig after I already knew I hated the typhon 3s. :ROFLMAO:


Feelsbad but hey, at least I got it for 300$. It could be worse. And a sensored motor is an easy fix. :cool:(y)
Glad you got to the bottom of it. It’s like the universe is collecting for the deep discount mix up. The $17 limitless should be fun 🤣 💥
 
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Maybe not a dire


Sorry, that not big steak. That ground up beef for little kids. Best steak only for big boys and their 6s toys.

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Dang man that looks amazing! My wife loves rosemary so I infuse butter with it for the finishing baste.
 
In j

Spot the deliberate mis-Steak? Mmm burger things with green bits 😳

Glad you got to the bottom of it. It’s like the universe is collecting for the deep discount mix up. The $17 limitless should be fun 🤣 💥
HAHAHAHA omg I was thinking the same thing. I still haven't even driven the limitless!! I should finally get to test it out today though. My large pinions showed up so I can make the spool bigger. :ROFLMAO:
 
Dang man that looks amazing! My wife loves rosemary so I infuse butter with it for the finishing baste.

I wish it were mine. Only my Google-fu was strong on that one. Alas, working on the house has relegated me to a glued-meat budget…
 
Funny enough that happened to me on my quest to fix my problem 🤣. I was so happy I bought the upgraded one and had it ready to go.
Can you point me in the direction of where the upgraded slipper and hub set would be? I just replaced mine and it broke again after one run.
 
Can you point me in the direction of where the upgraded slipper and hub set would be? I just replaced mine and it broke again after one run.
Broke slipper/hub? How? Post a picture if you can.
 
Broke slipper/hub? How? Post a picture if you can.
Same as @PeighDay showed above with the red arrow pointing to it on the exploded view. Part ara310946. It sounded like @Moirae found a different one.

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I have the oktay one and it's great. Holla at @Dasowner he got the hook up. He's also in the Facebook group.
 
Same as @PeighDay showed above with the red arrow pointing to it on the exploded view. Part ara310946. It sounded like @Moirae found a different one
I hate the slipper clutch. At least this one hasn’t broken on me yet.
 
Same as @PeighDay showed above with the red arrow pointing to it on the exploded view. Part ara310946. It sounded like @Moirae found a different one.

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Over tightened it. Must be careful not to do that. I’m still running the original slipper on my 2+-year-old granite and other three, 3s cars. It’s just an issue of knowing how to properly adjust it that’s all.
 
Here's a couple things that can happen to the stock slipper. The splined hub connecting to the diff input gear cracks from torque. The reinforcement tube on v2 models should help. An old inner bearing race works too.
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Once that hub cracks, the inner splines will strip out, losing grip and drive to the diff.
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Here's a couple things that can happen to the stock slipper. The splined hub connecting to the diff input gear cracks from torque. The reinforcement tube on v2 models should help. An old inner bearing race works too.
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Once that hub cracks, the inner splines will strip out, losing grip and drive to the diff.
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Can’t see your attachments for some reason…
I Dremel an old bearing and use the inner race to reinforce the rear hub. I always very carefully hand tighten the spur. I never tighten it to fully tight because that will often break or strip the inside. I will tighten, test retighten and as necessary until I have it right. I have five total 3S cars and I’ve only ruined one spur plugging it in incorrectly so I stripped the spur hub inside. If you’re careful to not over tighten, use a bearing sleeve And be careful to click in the motor module tight they’re just fine and very dependable.

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The pictures were coming up twice so I was probably editing my post. Here's my bearing hack:
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That's in my Big Rock. Put the M2C mount and brace in the Kraton today. They really should do something for dirt/debris management in these things. This is with a slit below the spur:
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The pictures were coming up twice so I was probably editing my post. Here's my bearing hack:
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That's in my Big Rock. Put the M2C mount and brace in the Kraton today. They really should do something for dirt/debris management in these things. This is with a slit below the spur:
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Arrma has a solution to the issue where you have your breaking hack. They now offer a small metal slipper shaft sleeve, part number ARA 311157, and sell it for $2.99. They are currently on back order most everywhere: I have one on back order at Amain for my Infraction 3s BLX.
 
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Over tightened it. Must be careful not to do that. I’m still running the original slipper on my 2+-year-old granite and other three, 3s cars. It’s just an issue of knowing how to properly adjust it that’s all.
Yes I did. I realized I need to reserve my super human strength for fighting crime instead of fixing RCs ;). Only took me a couple of times to get it right. You live and you learn.
 
Can’t see your attachments for some reason…
I Dremel an old bearing and use the inner race to reinforce the rear hub. I always very carefully hand tighten the spur. I never tighten it to fully tight because that will often break or strip the inside. I will tighten, test retighten and as necessary until I have it right. I have five total 3S cars and I’ve only ruined one spur plugging it in incorrectly so I stripped the spur hub inside. If you’re careful to not over tighten, use a bearing sleeve And be careful to click in the motor module tight they’re just fine and very dependable.

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Are all your rigs on 3s? If so, I don't think you even need to worry about the slipper. I used to have a few 3s rigs, drove them for a long time and never had slipper issues. Issues start when you move them up to 4s if you are not careful.
 
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lol our typhon 3s was perfect before I started trying to upgrade it. I finally got it back to a place where I almost like it and it took almost a year LOL. I got the TP 4050 2100kv in there and the 150a spektrum. I also just installed that hot racing slipper eliminator with a 42t mod 1 gear and it's been awesome so far. My typhon is for on road only so it made since but as of right now I'm glad I went to the spool setup and mod 1 gears.
 
Are all your rigs on 3s? If so, I don't think you even need to worry about the slipper. I used to have a few 3s rigs, drove them for a long time and never had slipper issues. Issues start when you move them up to 4s if you are not careful.
I started using the bearing race when the rear slipper hub begin cracking on a couple of my cars over a year back. Still running those same slipper hubs with the race, cracks and all. The only slipper hub that I have absolutely ruined was when I failed to click it in solid and it stripped out the inside.

Yes, I stick with 3s. I could run them on 4s but I don’t need the additional power or expense. I have a Kraton and Noto for that. I run 130 amp ESC‘s with 3670, 3050kv motors mostly.
Yes I did. I realized I need to reserve my super human strength for fighting crime instead of fixing RCs ;). Only took me a couple of times to get it right. You live and you learn.
Yeah that’s great. The first few months I had a 3S car they were a pain to get right. Two years later I just go by sound and feel. Typically I run them a touch loose as it’s easier on the drive train with my heavy trigger finger.
 
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