BRCC blown rear diff after 3 hours runtime

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Haven't had any diff problems run 11t pinion no heat issues neither..
I thought I read somewhere not to go that high but I was mistaken. Sorry about that.
 
Does it look like I put the diff back together correctly? As far as I can tell I did but maybe I am wrong. I am also wondering if I used too much grease on it? After seeing other pictures of the diff case they weren't nearly as lubed up. @bicketybam

The internals look good. Getting the top back on is the tricky part. Once I get mine back together I spin the two outdrives in opposite directions to make sure there isn’t any binding. Be sure you do that before reassembling the truck. As far as grease goes, I never use that much but that shouldn’t cause a failure. The only thing I can say is if you chipped a tooth when you ran those two batteries with a fully tight slipper, it would have only have gotten worse even when you loosened the slipper. I’ve had a diff start out with just a barely audible click once in a while and have it progress to a destroyed diff/input gear. Make sure all the teeth look good on the input shaft and the ring gear. Any wear will only get worse.

It pains me to hear you are having such a sh!tty experience. I love the 3s trucks and they are usually pretty bulletproof. The bad bearing in the motor was a manufacturing defect. I have 3 BLX100 motors and they’ve all been fine. My biggest issue with these trucks are the wheel driveshafts. I break them because I run only 1/4 out from full tight on my slipper. If I go any looser the slipper will loosen on its own. I guess I could loctite the screw. Anyway, good luck with the truck.
 
I agree with @bicketybam it is possible that the damage started when you had the slipper locked, and when you were doing wheelies it finished it off.
 
The internals look good. Getting the top back on is the tricky part. Once I get mine back together I spin the two outdrives in opposite directions to make sure there isn’t any binding. Be sure you do that before reassembling the truck. As far as grease goes, I never use that much but that shouldn’t cause a failure. The only thing I can say is if you chipped a tooth when you ran those two batteries with a fully tight slipper, it would have only have gotten worse even when you loosened the slipper. I’ve had a diff start out with just a barely audible click once in a while and have it progress to a destroyed diff/input gear. Make sure all the teeth look good on the input shaft and the ring gear. Any wear will only get worse.

It pains me to hear you are having such a sh!tty experience. I love the 3s trucks and they are usually pretty bulletproof. The bad bearing in the motor was a manufacturing defect. I have 3 BLX100 motors and they’ve all been fine. My biggest issue with these trucks are the wheel driveshafts. I break them because I run only 1/4 out from full tight on my slipper. If I go any looser the slipper will loosen on its own. I guess I could loctite the screw. Anyway, good luck with the truck.
I agree with @bicketybam it is possible that the damage started when you had the slipper locked, and when you were doing wheelies it finished it off.
Thank you both for the help. I'm looking at the parts I need to order to repair it right now. I know forsure that I need the input gear and some diff fluid, I am wondering if I should also get the differential case set(37t)? Mine is in good condition besides the one little chip on one tooth in the previous picture, I'll attach another. I'm wondering if that little chip will cause problems or if I can get away with just getting a new input gear. If a new case set is needed I will probably order the whole assembly from Jennys RC. Wish they had the input gears in stock I could get 2 for $9 or I can get one on amain for $7. Thanks again guys, without your help I would have already put this thing on offerup for a ridiculously low price. Might give this truck and brand another shot, not sure yet though.
 

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Thank you both for the help. I'm looking at the parts I need to order to repair it right now. I know forsure that I need the input gear and some diff fluid, I am wondering if I should also get the differential case set(37t)? Mine is in good condition besides the one little chip on one tooth in the previous picture, I'll attach another. I'm wondering if that little chip will cause problems or if I can get away with just getting a new input gear. If a new case set is needed I will probably order the whole assembly from Jennys RC. Wish they had the input gears in stock I could get 2 for $9 or I can get one on amain for $7. Thanks again guys, without your help I would have already put this thing on offerup for a ridiculously low price. Might give this truck and brand another shot, not sure yet though.

I’d replace the case.
 
Thank you both for the help. I'm looking at the parts I need to order to repair it right now. I know forsure that I need the input gear and some diff fluid, I am wondering if I should also get the differential case set(37t)? Mine is in good condition besides the one little chip on one tooth in the previous picture, I'll attach another. I'm wondering if that little chip will cause problems or if I can get away with just getting a new input gear. If a new case set is needed I will probably order the whole assembly from Jennys RC. Wish they had the input gears in stock I could get 2 for $9 or I can get one on amain for $7. Thanks again guys, without your help I would have already put this thing on offerup for a ridiculously low price. Might give this truck and brand another shot, not sure yet though.

Edited: didn’t read you post fully, I had previously linked you to lumidave on eBay.
 
Yeah that's the plan, thanks for the input. At this point I have spent about 10 hours working on the thing for a grand total of 3 hours drive time.

Everything on these cars are replaceable. You have a warranty for a reason, even if it sucks to have to wait and wrench. The problem with the RTR business model is that you will need to go through the car fully yourself, essentially rebuilding it ground up. The 3s Arrma line is...... well let me shut up, I don’t own one but from everything I see on here and YouTube it has many weaknesses.

I say stick with it and upgrade it where it needs it because all RCs break. If the model itself has inherent flaws that can’t be upgraded then you sell
 
Everything on these cars are replaceable. You have a warranty for a reason, even if it sucks to have to wait and wrench. The problem with the RTR business model is that you will need to go through the car fully yourself, essentially rebuilding it ground up. The 3s Arrma line is...... well let me shut up, I don’t own one but from everything I see on here and YouTube it has many weaknesses.

I say stick with it and upgrade it where it needs it because all RCs break. If the model itself has inherent flaws that can’t be upgraded then you sell

 

A arms, drive shafts, and rich duperbash has Tekno shocks on his. Like I said, I don’t own one so I can’t comment but I have watched many vids of those things breaking.

And every rc can use atleast a few upgrades
 
A arms, drive shafts, and rich duperbash has Tekno shocks on his. Like I said, I don’t own one so I can’t comment but I have watched many vids of those things breaking.

And every rc can use atleast a few upgrades
I launched mine out of a skate park on the stock shocks. A-arms? If you hit something like any other RC. You say you can't comment, yet you do, lol. At one point I owned 4. For $300 there isn't a 3s truck that can compare I'm terms of durability and performance.
 
Everything on these cars are replaceable. You have a warranty for a reason, even if it sucks to have to wait and wrench. The problem with the RTR business model is that you will need to go through the car fully yourself, essentially rebuilding it ground up. The 3s Arrma line is...... well let me shut up, I don’t own one but from everything I see on here and YouTube it has many weaknesses.

I say stick with it and upgrade it where it needs it because all RCs break. If the model itself has inherent flaws that can’t be upgraded then you sell
I didn't even bother contacting Horizon for the warranty, I just want it fixed so I ordered the parts yesterday. I may contact them in a few days to see if they will warranty the parts but I am unsure if the diff went out because of something I did or if it really was some kind of defect. I'm an honest person and will only use the warranty if I feel it is right to do so.
 
Does it look like I put the diff back together correctly? As far as I can tell I did but maybe I am wrong. I am also wondering if I used too much grease on it? After seeing other pictures of the diff case they weren't nearly as lubed up. @bicketybam
Don’t forget the set pin. Maybe that’s missing you know the one that holds the input cups. Both sides have pin that fits behind the input gears. They have to set in the gear so when the gear spins it locked. Sounds like a pin is missing. Just throwing that out there. Did you solve your issue?
 
Don’t forget the set pin. Maybe that’s missing you know the one that holds the input cups. Both sides have pin that fits behind the input gears. They have to set in the gear so when the gear spins it locked. Sounds like a pin is missing. Just throwing that out there. Did you solve your issue?
I'm currently waiting on replacement parts, they should be here today. I will update the thread afterwards but the truck should run perfectly after I am done with it. I ended up ordering a whole new diff from jennysrc as it made the most sense to me pricewise.
 
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