Typhon Breaking Spur Gears on Arrma Typhon 3s - New to Hobby

[dcel22]

Hi Guys,

I am new to the hobby and this is my first car. The thing is an absolute blast! I've been driving it with a 2s battery and no problems for about 2 weeks. I just bought a Spektrum Smart 3s 5000mAh 100C battery for it. The spur gear didn't last a single battery. On a full speed, heavy brake event, the teeth on the plastic spur gear shredded off. I went to the hobby store this morning and got a new plastic spur gear. I drove a little more conservatively and same thing happened, teeth all stripped off. When I adjusted the slipper clutch I backed off 1.5 revolutions like the manual says. The car is just starting to wheelie sometimes. I don't know what to do. I really like wheelies and the quick acceleration. I feel like I am a little doomed with the 3s battery though. I was thinking to get a metal spur gear but then afraid of what all would break down the driveline. I also don't really want to loosen the slipper clutch. Anyone have any thoughts on what to do? Maybe metal and change the pinion too? Maybe upgrade other parts too? I am just surprised with a 3s battery this thing has broken twice in less than half a battery. I would think it would be designed and work from the factory on a 3s fine. I am assuming the mesh looks good between the pinion and spur gear as the motor mount came from the factory, is tight, and looks like the instruction manual. Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!!!

 

[jondilly1974]

Get the steel spur from the 4S rigs

 

[Camaroboy383]

Hi Guys,

I am new to the hobby and this is my first car. The thing is an absolute blast! I've been driving it with a 2s battery and no problems for about 2 weeks. I just bought a Spektrum Smart 3s 5000mAh 100C battery for it. The spur gear didn't last a single battery. On a full speed, heavy brake event, the teeth on the plastic spur gear shredded off. I went to the hobby store this morning and got a new plastic spur gear. I drove a little more conservatively and same thing happened, teeth all stripped off. When I adjusted the slipper clutch I backed off 1.5 revolutions like the manual says. The car is just starting to wheelie sometimes. I don't know what to do. I really like wheelies and the quick acceleration. I feel like I am a little doomed with the 3s battery though. I was thinking to get a metal spur gear but then afraid of what all would break down the driveline. I also don't really want to loosen the slipper clutch. Anyone have any thoughts on what to do? Maybe metal and change the pinion too? Maybe upgrade other parts too? I am just surprised with a 3s battery this thing has broken twice in less than half a battery. I would think it would be designed and work from the factory on a 3s fine. I am assuming the mesh looks good between the pinion and spur gear as the motor mount came from the factory, is tight, and looks like the instruction manual. Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!!!

View attachment 106534

Seems to be pretty common with the new release of the v3...

When you installed the new spur how was the mesh all the way around?..plastic spurs last a very long time if all is correct..
Another addition would be look at the pattern your given on the burnt spurs.. your missing about 15-20% of tooth engagement..

When setting them up make sure the spur assembly is pushed all the way back.. (towards the rear diff)

Reason being, the center shaft is spring loaded, it always keeps the slipper assembly towards the back of the module...?

 

[dcel22]

Seems to be pretty common with the new release of the v3...

When you installed the new spur how was the mesh all the way around?..plastic spurs last a very long time if all is correct..
Another addition would be look at the pattern your given on the burnt spurs.. your missing about 15-20% of tooth engagement..

When setting them up make sure the spur assembly is pushed all the way back.. (towards the rear diff)

Reason being, the center shaft is spring loaded, it always keeps the slipper assembly towards the back of the module...?

The image that you are referring to with the 15-20% missing tooth engagement is the spur gear that was stock from the factory. Do you think something is wrong with my car if the factory install ended up like that? I just opened up the car and below is a picture of the replacement spur gear that just had the teeth ground down. Also, good idea to rotate and look at the mesh all the way around. I didn't think to do that. Looking at this mesh (in the new pic), it looks like maybe the teeth weren't engaging enough and maybe I should move the motor mount to help the piñon engage better. Would you agree? It's a little difficult to tell because some of the teeth on the spur are already ground down but the piñon actually doesn't seem like it would be engaging quite that much even if the spur wasn't ground. Thoughts? Thanks for the help!

Get the steel spur from the 4S rigs

If I do that do you think I will need any other components downstream? Wondering what to buy if so. Thanks!

 

[Engineer]

The image that you are referring to with the 15-20% missing tooth engagement is the spur gear that was stock from the factory. Do you think something is wrong with my car if the factory install ended up like that? I just opened up the car and below is a picture of the replacement spur gear that just had the teeth ground down. Also, good idea to rotate and look at the mesh all the way around. I didn't think to do that. Looking at this mesh (in the new pic), it looks like maybe the teeth weren't engaging enough and maybe I should move the motor mount to help the piñon engage better. Would you agree? It's a little difficult to tell because some of the teeth on the spur are already ground down but the piñon actually doesn't seem like it would be engaging quite that much even if the spur wasn't ground. Thoughts? Thanks for the help!

View attachment 106535

that mesh looks way too loose - but it also looks like it may have slipped looking at the marks on the top slot

 

[dcel22]

that mesh looks way too loose - but it also looks like it may have slipped looking at the marks on the top slot

Ahhhhh very good observation! I think you might be right. I'll get another plastic, readjust, and give it a go.

 

[jondilly1974]

that mesh looks way too loose - but it also looks like it may have slipped looking at the marks on the top slot

Great call ????

 

[Camaroboy383]

For sure.. motor is moving around.. ?.. and yes the mesh needs to be much tighter than that.. you have to have the module halves assembled to check the mesh.. keep that in mind as well..?

 

[dcel22]

Nice video. I think next time I make it in there I will be putting washers on like he did. Just ran through a full 3s battery without any issues. This was done on grass opposed to pavement but I am guessing I'm good now. Thanks again everyone!

 

[Smokey Joe]

Get rid of the sliding motor mount. I caught the same problem on my new Typhon 3s. I swapped it out for the old style with designated pinion setup. I am locked in and smooth.

 

[Brisbane_North]

I know you can hear a too tight mesh between spur & pinion - gets real noisy - but can you hear a loose mesh??

 

[K-BASH]

If mesh an everything adjusted correctly the plastic spurs are strong enough for 6s power,doing WHEELIES down the road.

 

[dcel22]

Get rid of the sliding motor mount. I caught the same problem on my new Typhon 3s. I swapped it out for the old style with designated pinion setup. I am locked in and smooth.

I like that idea vs the washers. Thanks!