Broke my Team Associated MT10

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Recently got a JConcepts body to hydrodip and paint it rainbow for my daughter. Little thing has rather grown on me.
Have you got pictures of it? I'd love to see it!

My Mt10 body is starting to crack around the rear body mounts. I'll probably shop for a new one soon.

How'd you go about hydrodip, btw?
 
Hey Velo - I’ve picked a V2 up cheap with a max 10 combo. I cannot get the mesh to hold. One jump and the motor shifts throwing the mesh. Any tips on how to secure it via that spring loaded screw - other than absolutely tightening the life out of it? (I’m on my 3rd composite spur gear inside 1 month)
 
Hey Velo - I’ve picked a V2 up cheap with a max 10 combo. I cannot get the mesh to hold. One jump and the motor shifts throwing the mesh. Any tips on how to secure it via that spring loaded screw - other than absolutely tightening the life out of it? (I’m on my 3rd composite spur gear inside 1 month)
Aw man…yeah I hated that spring thing. It’s been a year since I last pulled the motor on my MT10 so my memory is fuzzing out. Did you use Loctite? I know I used Loctite and was very careful to clean the screw and the mount with alcohol to make sure there was no oil to contaminate the loctite. I’ll pull my car from storage and take a look at it in a bit. I need to work on it anyway (kind of put it off for the last year lol) because somethings wrong with it. Think I bent the motor shaft but who knows. Whatever it is, I’m gonna have to take it apart, so let me get back to you.
 
Hey Velo - I’ve picked a V2 up cheap with a max 10 combo. I cannot get the mesh to hold. One jump and the motor shifts throwing the mesh. Any tips on how to secure it via that spring loaded screw - other than absolutely tightening the life out of it? (I’m on my 3rd composite spur gear inside 1 month)
Ok, that helped me remember. First of all I do not use Loctite on that screw. I was remembering wrong. Secondly, I had a similar issue to what you’re having and it ended up being a slightly bent motor mount, which kept it from ‘locking together’ from the pressure of the set screw. I tried to bend it straight, but I could never get it perfect so I bought a new one, which was fairly cheap I think.

Once I put the new one in there we’re no more issues. So pull both blue aluminum pieces of the motor mount out and inspect very closely. Even an extremely slight bend to one of the plates will keep them from staying together tightly. I think friction has a lot to do with them staying solidly together. Also, I tighten the hell out of it. I use a ball head driver and carefully tighten it as tight as my fingers can manage. Not tight like you would if your whole hand was wrapped around the handle, just using my fingers.

Check out this crazy T-bone bumper that I installed shortly after getting the mt10. Instead of putting it in place of the existing bumper, I simply put it on top because I wanted to keep the lights. It has provided very good protection. Too bad they went out of business. I went ahead and charged up a battery, when I pick the kid up from school we’re going to go run this along with my granite. It’s still has the bent motor shaft and also sounds like a Weedwhacker, so I’m thinking something may be wrong with the center diff…but that’s whole other project to tackle on another day.

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Ok, that helped me remember. First of all I do not use Loctite on that screw. I was remembering wrong. Secondly, I had a similar issue to what you’re having and it ended up being a slightly bent motor mount, which kept it from ‘locking together’ from the pressure of the set screw. I tried to bend it straight, but I could never get it perfect so I bought a new one, which was fairly cheap I think.

Once I put the new one in there we’re no more issues. So pull both blue aluminum pieces of the motor mount out and inspect very closely. Even an extremely slight bend to one of the plates will keep them from staying together tightly. I think friction has a lot to do with them staying solidly together. Also, I tighten the hell out of it. I use a ball head driver and carefully tighten it as tight as my fingers can manage. Not tight like you would if your whole hand was wrapped around the handle, just using my fingers.

Check out this crazy T-bone bumper that I installed shortly after getting the mt10. Instead of putting it in place of the existing bumper, I simply put it on top because I wanted to keep the lights. It has provided very good protection. Too bad they went out of business. I went ahead and charged up a battery, when I pick the kid up from school we’re going to go run this along with my granite. It’s still has the bent motor shaft and also sounds like a Weedwhacker, so I’m thinking something may be wrong with the center diff…but that’s whole other project to tackle on another day.

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Ok, that helped me remember. First of all I do not use Loctite on that screw. I was remembering wrong. Secondly, I had a similar issue to what you’re having and it ended up being a slightly bent motor mount, which kept it from ‘locking together’ from the pressure of the set screw. I tried to bend it straight, but I could never get it perfect so I bought a new one, which was fairly cheap I think.

Once I put the new one in there we’re no more issues. So pull both blue aluminum pieces of the motor mount out and inspect very closely. Even an extremely slight bend to one of the plates will keep them from staying together tightly. I think friction has a lot to do with them staying solidly together. Also, I tighten the hell out of it. I use a ball head driver and carefully tighten it as tight as my fingers can manage. Not tight like you would if your whole hand was wrapped around the handle, just using my fingers.

Check out this crazy T-bone bumper that I installed shortly after getting the mt10. Instead of putting it in place of the existing bumper, I simply put it on top because I wanted to keep the lights. It has provided very good protection. Too bad they went out of business. I went ahead and charged up a battery, when I pick the kid up from school we’re going to go run this along with my granite. It’s still has the bent motor shaft and also sounds like a Weedwhacker, so I’m thinking something may be wrong with the center diff…but that’s whole other project to tackle on another day.

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I’ve already replaced the twin plate motor mount once so have experienced the bent plate scenario! I was expecting this thing to be solid based on reviews etc etc - nothing but trouble since I bought it. So I’ve now got a new plate in there - a new mounting screw etc etc (the first snapped inside the chassis nut housing - New chassis needed!?!?) - my buddy said remove the spring and then tighten down. Not considered that just yet. I’m thinking the motor (slightly larger/heavier than stock) is perhaps not helping - but apparently the Max10 combo is the way to go for more power.

So far I’ve done 3 spurs. Chassis. Front diff casing. Motor mount plates. Front bumper. I’ve driven it for at most 40 minutes.
 
I’ve already replaced the twin plate motor mount once so have experienced the bent plate scenario! I was expecting this thing to be solid based on reviews etc etc - nothing but trouble since I bought it. So I’ve now got a new plate in there - a new mounting screw etc etc (the first snapped inside the chassis nut housing - New chassis needed!?!?) - my buddy said remove the spring and then tighten down. Not considered that just yet. I’m thinking the motor (slightly larger/heavier than stock) is perhaps not helping - but apparently the Max10 combo is the way to go for more power.

So far I’ve done 3 spurs. Chassis. Front diff casing. Motor mount plates. Front bumper. I’ve driven it for at most 40 minutes.
Dang… but you did say . it is used so all of the durability may have been ‘used up’ already literally. The only trouble I had with mine was a bad servo, which team associated replaced, and I did a bunch of damage to it and launching it at a skate park. Broke a shock cap and bent the motor mount/shaft, broke the wheelie bar. Otherwise it’s been completely solid, which is why I like to use it as a guest car for kids and adults. I did find that the remote completely sucks so I put a stock arrma remote on it. Pretty funny that a stock Arrma remote was better than another one.

You might’ve hit the nail on the head with the larger motor. I’ve kept mine all stock. When I replace the motor I’m going to use one that is the same size. I also have always used really light weight 3000 mah, 3S batteries. That may have helped with the durability. If I was in your position, I would take the car completely apart. Or mostly apart while looking for a crack, break or something that could explain why issues keeps occurring. Before I replace my motor I’m going go ahead and pull the center differential and rebuild it quickly. Just to make sure that’s not making the Weedwhacker noise. They’re super simple to work on.

Sorry I couldn’t be more help bud. Go ahead and pull it apart, I bet you’ll find some thing that can help explain
 
It was (apparently) less than 4 weeks old when I bought it. I followed the guy on the MT10 Facebook group who I bought it off - so I saw his history from when purchased etc etc. He was a nice older chap so honestly don’t think he weakened it much. Chassis was like new underneath. He included all the original (unused) stock motors and pinions and ESC - So I can switch it back stock but leave the Max10 ESC in situ.

Put a new chassis on last week and the new motor mounts in the last few days and all SEEMED good.

I think it’s the motor weight. BUT I must be the only person this combo has caused issues for as it’s a popular upgrade for this truck and nobody seems to have an issue. Compared to Kev Talbot I treat them like they’re made of spiders webs and magic so I’ve not over pushed it.

Next time it slips - old motor goes back in.
 
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