Kraton Broken Kraton. Need Help!!

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Dylan13

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Arrma RC's
Hi, I have a my Arma Kraton V1 for 1 year now and was just recently driving it around my yard and all of the sudden my car just slows down and sounds like gears are grinding but the tires spin very slow when I lift the car up. I am kind of new into rc so I do not know what it could be. I looked at the pinion and spur and did not see any stripped teeth. Any suggestions what it could be??
 
Yep, you have a differential that is out. If both front and rear wheels are acting the same, then it's your center diff.
 
Dietrich_40 said:
Check the center diff.
Click to expand...
Ok thxs

Ok thxs, what center diff do you recommend, going back to stock or upgrading because I am running 6s and don’t want it to happen again.

dpricenator said:
Yep, you have a differential that is out. If both front and rear wheels are acting the same, then it's your center diff.
Click to expand...
Should I go back to stock or upgrade to a better center diff? And do I buy the center diff kit or just a few components of it?
 
You need to disassemble the diff and see what broke. On these differentials it usually breaks one of the side gears, these are available on amazon in a kit for about $9.00. The stock diffs are very strong, but you do need to be opening them up and cleaning them, putting fresh lube every couple months depending on how often and how hard you run. Good luck and a speedy recovery to your Kraton!
 
cmcsjme said:
You need to disassemble the diff and see what broke. On these differentials it usually breaks one of the side gears, these are available on amazon in a kit for about $9.00. The stock diffs are very strong, but you do need to be opening them up and cleaning them, putting fresh lube every couple months depending on how often and how hard you run. Good luck and a speedy recovery to your Kraton!
Click to expand...
Thxs, hopefully my Kraton will be back running soon
 
Regardless of how you do it, if you are running 6s you really need to shim the diffs to prevent this happening again.

Open it up and see what's wrong. Then either replace or fix and bullet proof shim that thing.
 
Dietrich_40 said:
Regardless of how you do it, if you are running 6s you really need to shim the diffs to prevent this happening again.

Open it up and see what's wrong. Then either replace or fix and bullet proof shim that thing.
Click to expand...
How can you bullet proof the center diff?
 
Hot racing cup,shims and loctite!
In my experience. I believe the thicker fluid helps too with gears and leaks!
 
I have also upgraded the internal diff pins with the drill bit mod.
I have broke a couple stock pins and it took out my whole diff once. The first time everything was so mangled that I just started over with a new diff. The second time I had to get a dremel in the diff to cut the burr down on the shaft of the drive cup, so I could get the drive cup through the hole and put a new cup in the gear housing. I have since done the drill bit and shims on both my Kraton and Senton and all 3 diffs.
 
Crash said:
Hot racing cup,shims and loctite!
In my experience. I believe the thicker fluid helps too with gears and leaks!
Click to expand...

In my experience, have good gaskets and O-rings helps stop leaks better than thick fluid. When servicing the diffs, be careful with the big paper gasket, and don't misplace the small O-rings (and don't forget to re-install them). a 10-pack of the big paper gaskets is pretty cheap, so buy them, and replace when needed.

I run 10k-125k-10k, and have no leaks.
 
Jerry-rigged said:
In my experience, have good gaskets and O-rings helps stop leaks better than thick fluid. When servicing the diffs, be careful with the big paper gasket, and don't misplace the small O-rings (and don't forget to re-install them). a 10-pack of the big paper gaskets is pretty cheap, so buy them, and replace when needed.

I run 10k-125k-10k, and have no leaks.
Click to expand...

Yeah I've seen plenty diffs running lower weights like 3-5k leak with new o-rings. Gaskets and o-rings are a given when servicing your diffs. Rarely see anything leaking over 50k. That just what Ive seen with many others rcs. Im sure everone has there own experiences.
 
Last edited:
Jerry-rigged said:
In my experience, have good gaskets and O-rings helps stop leaks better than thick fluid. When servicing the diffs, be careful with the big paper gasket, and don't misplace the small O-rings (and don't forget to re-install them). a 10-pack of the big paper gaskets is pretty cheap, so buy them, and replace when needed.

I run 10k-125k-10k, and have no leaks.
Click to expand...
Also need to make sure the thin steel washer is on top of the O ring... I have seen several vids on-line and after installing the O ring people are just putting in the shaft pin then the gear on top of it... no washer in there at all. As I have a V4 not sure if a change was done in regard to the build, but mine had a thin washer that went on top of the O-ring but before the shaft pin install.
 
MaddogMikeD said:
Also need to make sure the thin steel washer is on top of the O ring... I have seen several vids on-line and after installing the O ring people are just putting in the shaft pin then the gear on top of it... no washer in there at all. As I have a V4 not sure if a change was done in regard to the build, but mine had a thin washer that went on top of the O-ring but before the shaft pin install.
Click to expand...
Yes that shim is new to the V4 diff. Some people still prefer to swap that for a larger Mugen shim that is wider than the pin. The stock shim will cover the oring, but not fully protect the pin and cover.
 
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