Outcast Broken M2C Hinge Pins??

[Notorious J]

Broke 2 within 10min. This is the upgraded m2c pin and block system. Anyone else snapping pins? Droop is set perfect and the jump was a sub 50ft with perfect chassis slap. Rear left arm both times.

Simply asking a question to see if others are having any issues.

I fully support and stand behind Mitch and m2c racing I love the company and truly believe arrma wouldn't be possible without support from such amazing vendors like M2C.

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Never tried the M2C, but just put in @HotdogCustoms titanium in my KEXB. So far, working well considering I'm sending it just as hard in the same cold weather. I tried making my own out of tool steel, and found them to be way more brittle than stock. Is it really the best material to use in this application?

 

[SentFlying]

Yep! Great bands. In their PRIME. Then comes the 80s with the damn "hair bands"..10 whole years until good music is heard again!..kinda like now....

Agreed Bash on dude

 

[Greengaunja]

Never tried the M2C, but just put in @HotdogCustoms titanium in my KEXB. So far, working well considering I'm sending it just as hard in the same cold weather. I tried making my own out of tool steel, and found them to be way more brittle than stock. Is it really the best material to use in this application?

I'd say yes based on experience with bikes, cold weather, and abuse.
I like titanium for almost everything. Seriously considering Scorched's titanium chassis over carbon fiber.
However, would need to see spec and factors to be able to say titanium beats hardened steel(when done right)

 

[sanara.kenshin]

Ive just broken the 2nd hinge pin on the other side now. Didnt even break the a arms. Probably 60 foot jump and landed on all four. The kit only comes with one extra. So far the spare one is still good. Looks like I’ll be going back to stock for now.

 

[Dscracing1320]

Ive just broken the 2nd hinge pin on the other side now. Didnt even break the a arms. Probably 60 foot jump and landed on all four. The kit only comes with one extra. So far the spare one is still good. Looks like I’ll be going back to stock for now.

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That sucks. Kinda like mine. If it's my fault by all means break but when they are breaking on a what appears to be good landing its disheartening.

 

[Greengaunja]

You know, I've been thinking about this. The theory behind drawing it together and locking it with a locknut is sound. On paper and with thought, its a great idea. Yet I wonder... does that create a "shear point"? What I mean is, I've yet to see any posts or had the stock pin break myself. Not saying it doesn't. But take into account what's different. Drawing it tight and locking it doesn't allow for flex potential. So it shears off. Especially if it doesn't want to flex. I could be wrong here, but it's surprising that a hardened, tool grade pin breaks and the plastic bored lower arm doesn't...

 

[Dscracing1320]

You know, I've been thinking about this. The theory behind drawing it together and locking it with a locknut is sound. On paper and with thought, its a great idea. Yet I wonder... does that create a "shear point"? What I mean is, I've yet to see any posts or had the stock pin break myself. Not saying it doesn't. But take into account what's different. Drawing it tight and locking it doesn't allow for flex potential. So it shears off. Especially if it doesn't want to flex. I could be wrong here, but it's surprising that a hardened, tool grade pin breaks and the plastic bored lower arm doesn't...

It's what I'm thinking. But I broke 2 on very very small jumps. But yes even I was thinking of it as a potential shear point. Now I'm thinking of going back to my voltage suspension blocks if it happens 3 more times "the number of m2c pins I have left"..

 

[Greengaunja]

You know, I've been thinking about this. The theory behind drawing it together and locking it with a locknut is sound. On paper and with thought, its a great idea. Yet I wonder... does that create a "shear point"? What I mean is, I've yet to see any posts or had the stock pin break myself. Not saying it doesn't. But take into account what's different. Drawing it tight and locking it doesn't allow for flex potential. So it shears off. Especially if it doesn't want to flex. I could be wrong here, but it's surprising that a hardened, tool grade pin breaks and the plastic bored lower arm doesn't...

Test it. If a gap is left(between nut and pinholder bracket) or maybe if you don't draw the nut tight, or allow a 1/16-1/8 gap there might be some flex. Whether it's enough is anyone's guess, but a flex or "slide" should eliminate a shear point.

 

[SrC]

Never tried the M2C, but just put in @HotdogCustoms titanium in my KEXB. So far, working well considering I'm sending it just as hard in the same cold weather. I tried making my own out of tool steel, and found them to be way more brittle than stock. Is it really the best material to use in this application?

I like $Ti$, there are different grades and all. You get lucky most of the time. But I have cracked Ti before. They have good tensile memory, buy beyond a point can crack.

 

[Notorious J]

beyond a point can crack.

I strive to find that point whenever I can.

 

[Greengaunja]

I like $Ti$, there are different grades and all. You get lucky most of the time. But I have cracked Ti before. They have good tensile memory, buy beyond a point can crack.

So true. "Stronger" doesn't equate "indestructible".

 

[jkflow]

Stronger only means that it will fail in a different way.

 

[Angel]

You know, I've been thinking about this. The theory behind drawing it together and locking it with a locknut is sound. On paper and with thought, its a great idea. Yet I wonder... does that create a "shear point"? What I mean is, I've yet to see any posts or had the stock pin break myself. Not saying it doesn't. But take into account what's different. Drawing it tight and locking it doesn't allow for flex potential. So it shears off. Especially if it doesn't want to flex. I could be wrong here, but it's surprising that a hardened, tool grade pin breaks and the plastic bored lower arm doesn't...

Hey I just broke two hinge pins on my kraton 6s on simple minimal landings. I called Looper and he said he’s only had 3 pins reported broken this year. I agree with the possibility that the screwing from both ends doesn’t allow for flexibility.

 

[SrC]

I don't know what is worse, a bent H. Pin ( usually stockers) or a cracked/snapped one.
I agree that an arm should usually split or crack before a H. Pin cracks or sheers off.

 

[jkflow]

I have yet to break mine on 'simple' or awful landings.
Make sure your droop is correct, it's a contributor.

 

[hobo]

no trouble with mine must have been on the kraton a year or so

 

[aahwhatever2]

Guys, please correct me if I am wrong…but just a thought;

I have seen multiple people that jump a LOT and flip a LOT… (LOL) but they guys I have seen use nitro fuel tubing and put a little on the bottom of the shock shaft (also easy to replace, as they wear out) and they use another small piece of fuel line inside the Diff cup… so the axle doesn’t bottom out against the Diff cup.
Wouldn’t this also “help”, along with the drupe screws and relief some of the presser at the bulkhead/Diff and arm (where these pins are?)

I think it would be worth a try, at least.

 

[Reubydoobe]

Broke 2 within 10min. This is the upgraded m2c pin and block system. Anyone else snapping pins? Droop is set perfect and the jump was a sub 50ft with perfect chassis slap. Rear left arm both times.

Simply asking a question to see if others are having any issues.

I fully support and stand behind Mitch and m2c racing I love the company and truly believe arrma wouldn't be possible without support from such amazing vendors like M2C.

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It's not as good as its made out to be in my experience. I've bent and broke a few of there bits now. The bit where you have to pay half again for a failed part annoys me.

 

[Greengaunja]

The nature of what we are doing with our RCs virtually guarantees the parts we buy WILL break. Nothing is unbreakable. Yes, bad parts slip through quality control. It's a numbers game. 50% off your next order sounds fair to me and believe me, I know many save up and do without just to get higher end parts. And can ill afford buying the same part again even with 50% off.
Seems to be a new scam going around. Ever see those posts on FB or other rc trading sites where that one guy seems to have multiple esc's and motors brand new still wrapped? I recently had an argument with another guy I know. Last 4-6 months, he bought several Horizon brand RCs. And has been posting ads online and in the local rc groups I belong to. Anyways, long story short, I really wanted to see his new Infraction up close and running. Maybe even race. But he told me he "returned" it. In fact, most of the RCs he bought(arrma, losi, and ecx) were returned. He buys rcs, makes claims for new parts and electronics(probably using family and friends too because I can't believe Horizon hasn't caught on) and then returns the unused RC. And sells the warrantied parts when he gets them.
And IM the @sshole who should mind his own business because "its not hurting me" because I called it out as fraud.
But it IS hurting me and you. And will soon when Horizon changes their warranty policies. Because even if only 10% of people do this, it takes from the REAL warranty claims. I can't be the only one noticing this but soon, bad claims will overshadow the real ones. Can't blame M2C or any other aftermarket part producer here trying to limit losses. I'm a noob here but have read enough of the history to see most of these people are in the hobby themselves and at one time made so so for their own rigs. Then had others wanting their parts. They are not millionaires or huge corporations. Most have day jobs. The gist I get is many like Mitch view what they do as a contribution to the hobby. And most are outsourcing materials as they don't have the means to produce their products from scratch.
Sorry for the rant. Just wanted to show it's a 2 way street. Personally I feel it's stupid to have warranties on things we are lauching off of cliffs or smashing into curbs. I don't think Mitch gives that 50% because a part failed and might have been defective. Probably more so because he's feeling, "yeah, that sucked but please give my product another chance but also understand the parts shipping and delivery can put me under and out of business"

 

[slick2500]

Or even keep popular models. I'd buy a Senton 8s EXB roller in a heartbeat.
But yes they could. And they won't. The guy above had the right of it about capitalism.
Let me give a good example. Carriage cars, Model Ts and any car car built prior 1980...Does anyone think cars today hold up as well? Nope. Same with parts.
Manufacturers have learned there's more money in parts and they sell more vehicles if the vehicles don't last as long.
When I had my old Sonoma, I once had to replace exhaust manifold. The bolts were shot so couldn't be reused. They use a special bolt, bigger bore/thread at bottom and thinner bore/thread at top. The dealership wanted over $50 for complete set(I think it was 16). Auto parts places were close to $30. I went to the fastener place that actually supplies GMC in Canada(both are in Oshawa). They charged me less than $10. That's just one example and all manufacturers are the same. China took it further and proved people don't care if it lasts a year if they pay a hell lot less. SMH

I have you beat, I was swapping the engine in my old car, the old engine sheared off all of the flex plate bolts, the new engine didn't come with any, these were a special bolt with a low profile head to avoid hitting the Tranny when the engine was spinning. Everywhere I looked wanted $18 per bolt plus shipping and handling the cheapest quote I got was $122 for 6 friggin bolts. Luckily I was able to find some aftermarket ones from ARP for $20.