Broken on/off switch on BLX 185 esc

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Notorious J

It's gonna break, so might as well send it!
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Like many of the fans I keep hearing about, it seems the violent force of some of my jumps caused the slide on the switch to snap off. It didn't break loose from the truck, but somehow managed to break anyways. It is still in the on position and works, but only by disconnecting the battery can I turn the esc off. Had a spare, so switched immediately, but my question is, if I hold the set button while plugging in a battery, will I be able to get into programming mode? I had considered splicing a switch from a toasted unit, but all three wires going from the esc to the switch are the same color, so next to impossible to know if they are going to be connected properly. I might be able to mark the wires by holding them side by side and color coding accordingly, but it seems a bit sketchy. Anyone ever run into this problem before?
 
Like many of the fans I keep hearing about, it seems the violent force of some of my jumps caused the slide on the switch to snap off. It didn't break loose from the truck, but somehow managed to break anyways. It is still in the on position and works, but only by disconnecting the battery can I turn the esc off. Had a spare, so switched immediately, but my question is, if I hold the set button while plugging in a battery, will I be able to get into programming mode? I had considered splicing a switch from a toasted unit, but all three wires going from the esc to the switch are the same color, so next to impossible to know if they are going to be connected properly. I might be able to mark the wires by holding them side by side and color coding accordingly, but it seems a bit sketchy. Anyone ever run into this problem before?
Can you post a pic?
 
I had the same problem all I did was remove the red rubber cover and used something small to slide the switch on and off
Did you end up just leaving the cover off? Mine broke right down to where it's completely flat, so only a small precision driver could even get to it.
 
. Anyone ever run into this problem before?
Hi,
I think, on brand new Typhon;
40641


I was losing the power, just by pressing the button. The silver square power module was unsnapped... I replaced it and works fine... (still)
PL
 
I super glued the little piece that broke off so far it's holding up fine , 5 packs later!
 
Hi,
I think, on brand new Typhon;
View attachment 40641

I was losing the power, just by pressing the button. The silver square power module was unsnapped... I replaced it and works fine... (still)
PL
Similar switch to the 6s model, but it is a separate switch. Only way to fix would be a splice.

20181223_152411 - Copy.jpg
 
Mine broke so I bought a regular 2 wire on off switch. I can't program it anymore with just the switch since there is no button, but a program card works to program if you plug it in the esc port
 
From my understanding the way the wires comes out of the esc for the switch are the same (wire placement coming out of the esc) as the receiver wires (signal, positive, negative) even though they are all black. There is a replacement switch you can buy which should work but not 100% positive Associated 29184 https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...zOuWyUapu_ptajLLD9wPBXI2gwJoh8V0aAhlBEALw_wcB or the Hobbywing HW664 (same thing).
 
From my understanding the way the wires comes out of the esc for the switch are the same (wire placement coming out of the esc) as the receiver wires (signal, positive, negative) even though they are all black. There is a replacement switch you can buy which should work but not 100% positive Associated 29184 https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...zOuWyUapu_ptajLLD9wPBXI2gwJoh8V0aAhlBEALw_wcB or the Hobbywing HW664 (same thing).
Yup yup.
I was looking at getting this one when I replaced mine. Wire placement is the same. Signal is the
white wire
Yup yup.
I was looking at getting this one when I replaced mine. Wire placement is the same. Signal is the
white wire
Since my shop was out of stock with this one, I bought just the switch and taped off the signal wire since my setting we're already set
 
Hello!
Sorry for reviving an old thread and being my very first post. :]

I have an Arrma Kraton 4S, the ESC power switch seems to be broken, it will turn on 1 out of 50'ish tries indicating a short I assume...

I've just got back into RC cars so forgive my ignorance here but how would I go about exactly bypassing the power-switch, what would be the advantages or pros & cons? Would my Rc car start immediately once I connected one of my batteries?

Thank you!
[UPDATE]
I've followed the instructions above and now my Kraton is ON/OFF switch free! though I think it's time for me to invest in a soldering iron ASAP!
Thanks for the tips guys/gals!

P.S
Make sure you program it and unplug your batteries before cutting your ON/OFF switch! Duh!
 
Last edited:
I just picked up a used Kraton EXB but the guy I got it from cut the switch of and was just twisting all 3 wires together. I picked up a new switch. How do I tell which of the 3 black wires coming out of the esc are the power wires and which is the signal wire?
 
I just picked up a used Kraton EXB but the guy I got it from cut the switch of and was just twisting all 3 wires together. I picked up a new switch. How do I tell which of the 3 black wires coming out of the esc are the power wires and which is the signal wire?
Since my 3 wires were all black I did a bit of trial and error.

Standing at the back of my Kraton looking towards the front there are 3 wires. The first wire on the left is the programing wire, the middle and right wires were for power.
 
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