Brushless Fury build

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Arrma RC's
  1. Fury
I bought my Arrma Fury BLX to run with my roomates ecx torment. Since then I have taken interest in the rc tracks and so the build begins...

First thing I wanted to address was the lack of a front sway bar. only cost me a few dollars and some time.

I started with a Team Associated RC8.2 RS Sway Bar Set- $4.54 shipped on ebay


I cut the bracket in half so I could attach it to the front bumper mount.


Then I trimmed them up and took the set screws out of the smaller hole


Test fit to the bumper mount, looks good enough for me!


I bought some longer (m3x16) bolts to attach.


With the mounts on the bumper finished, I moved on to the control arms

What I did was use the inside shock mounting hole as a guide to drill a 3/32 hole through the control arm. you have to be careful and it only takes a few turns from the drill to get through. Don't spin the drill fast or you risk ruining the threads for the lower shock mount.


its tough to see but by using the shock mount as a guide, it puts a hole in a good mounting location for the sway bar links.


With the holes drilled all I had left to do is attach the associated links to the front arms using the extra 2 bolts from the bumper mounts. I used a screwdriver to open up the 3/32 holes and make it easier to thread the m3 bolts in.


just a couple turns to ramp the screw in.

once the associated links are mounted I went back to bumper mounts to get the 3/32 stainless rod sized up for use.

put the rod through, made sharpie marks where I wanted the bends and then bent the rod to fit.


here is the first mockup I used:


After running this bar I realized that the bar being able to slide in the mounts made a big difference on the spring effect in opposite turns.

so for version 2 I got a new bar so I could attach collars before bending.


I also only bent the bar in 2 spots the second time. Doing it this way makes it much easier to keep the bar symmetrical. here is the finished swaybar how it sits on the car now:


and a closer look

So far I only have a few packs ran through it, but it is a night and day difference. and the best part is the whole thing only set me back about $10

Anyway more build progress is to come, I think rear swaybar is next.
Yeah the rear is my next project, Should be finished soon I just have to take some pictures.

I have the slash 4x4 wheels, I actually got the street fighters for free from a shipping error. So I use them to tune suspension on the street.

wheel model is trinidad sc. I used nail polish to keep them from looking dull.

How do you like the Street Fighters? I was thinking about getting some of those or maybe the Primes or Strikers for street duty.
The street fighters have been good to me. I have been using them on an outdoor sugar track and they seem to grip well. Most of my tire experience is finding traction in the sandy dirt. But for street suspension tuning and the outdoor high traction track these work good.

Best part about them is the wear. I have about 4 practice/bash days on the track and many 2s and 3s packs through it doing figure 8's, full throttle blasts, hard braking and tuning the suspension on the street and there is still a good amount of tread left.

The only downside with all the wear is the weight. Just holding one wheel in hand with streetfighters and the other with jconcepts barcodes on them the weight was noticeable.
Rear bar installed!
I did not take pictures along the way but the rear is easier to figure out. The most work was moving the radio box in front of the esc. Just a note, with the stock bodywork set at the lowest setting it cleared the antenna for me.


Same as the front, I cut the associated mount in half to make the mount for the bar, but you can probably just leave it in one piece too. I used the extra m3x16 screws from the front bar to secure the rear mount. I measured then marked the holes and drilled through the frame.


The bottom two screws are the ones holding the bar. the other screws are holding the esc and radio box.

After the screws are through, I put washers on the screws to adjust the height for the mount to pass through the rear suspension cage.
you can see the washers and how the bar passing through here:


The rest is really easy, I used traxxas 50mm camber links (Tra#2334) as turnbuckles to clear the rear suspension arms/springs:


The package comes with just the turnbuckles. I had the ends already from doing the captured ends on the tie rods so I just threaded them on real quick. and snapped them on the truck.

Then all that is left is putting the collars on and making two 90 degree bends in the bar. I used the same size as the front. the rear can be adjusted by either sliding the upper mount point on the swaybar, or by using the different holes on the control arm.

here is the finished bends, nothing to exciting. goes together very quickly after making the body mount.


with the body mounts being so narrow it feels like the sway bar effect is not as effective on the rear as it is on the front. luckily the rear is easily tune-able and also the bar is not as necessary as the front was.
I am hoping to make the car competitive. My local track is not at all concerned with the width, but I did notice that there is new fury wheels that don't have the "cone" shape that lets the tire roll so there may be hope too if it comes down to it.

old wheels:

new wheels without cone!
Yes, they are just like the yellow slash wheels I have. The bead just steps down to 2.2 but the wheel stays big. The plastic staying bigger in diameter helps the insert keep the tire from being pushed in and traction rolling.

That's why I am using the slash wheels, the edge makes a world of difference. And the street fighters I have on there are the 2.2 3.0 sct size
Here is another functional mod but its not for everyone. I used the Traxxas jato/slash 2wd slipper clutch. I did this for a few reasons, I was having trouble with the Arrma slipper. I would get it right where I wanted it, then after a few runs it would go to full slip and glaze the stock fiber pads. So I made a solution. well, I found a solution on youtube, and modified it for me :) here is a few reasons why this works for me:

1. Multiple sized spur gears are available and very affordable. Makes gearing much easier.
2. this style pressure plate is easy to see when the pads are wearing out.
3. It seems to hold the brushless power better for me
4.When I do burn out the slipper pads, I can get replacements right away from my lhs.

you will need:

Tra5556 pressure plate and hub
Tra3958, 3956 2wd spur gear .8 pitch
Tra5552 just for pads
Tra2554 screws for pressure plate to spur
Tra5116 10x15x4 bearing for spur
m3 washers x2
arrma spring
arrma bolt

Its really simple. Just remove the stock arrma slipper all the way down to the last metal plate:

then assemble the traxxas slipper. it goes pads > pressure plate > spur > screws >bearing




Then you just attach it to the driveshaft same as the original. I used m3 washer > arrma clutch spring > m3 washer > arrma nylon lock nut


My truck had .8 gears on it so the pinion gear I had worked fine. you will need a .8 pitch pinion to match the traxxas spur part numbers I am providing in here. the traxxas clutch assembly puts the spur gear further from the motor plate so I flipped the pinion around.


plenty of motor shaft for it to grab on to.


Also the motor cover will not fit over this any more if that is a concern for you. with .8 gears I have had no trouble at all with debris. I have many lipos put through the local track and in the sand without issue on this setup.

again, gearing options are now endless!
Next mod is fitted, but not tested yet. I used aluminum HPI blitz rear hub carriers. I did this for two reasons.
first is I wanted to experiment with the bigger changes in size for the rear camber link length. the HPI rear carrier makes it possible to run a much shorter camber link in the rear. I want to see how the car responds to the increased camber gain on compressed suspension.
2nd reason was to see if decreasing the wheelbase would help the turning radius.


the aluminum carriers are too wide to fit in the Arrma control arms. so I decided to dremel just one side. this makes it so I can run the wheelbase either 2 mm shorter or longer. all that you have to do is switch carriers to the other control arm to change wheelbase.

this picture shows the offset pushing the wheels forward.

I didn't take progress pics but it is easy to do. I just took a sanding drum and kept removing material and test fitting until the carrier fit into the control arm.

The HPI carrier uses a 3 mm hinge pin and the Arrma is 2.5 what I did to solve this was drill out the control arm to a 3 mm hole and just used Arrma front hinge pins in the rear. they hang outside the control arm a little bit but not close to hitting the wheel so I just left it. I could have cut the excess off but it didn't bother me. you can see the hinge pin hanging over on the picture above.

here is the HPI dog-bone. in the picture it is pushed all the way toward the wheel side. no binding at full compression and looks well fitted at full droop.

A note on the dog-bone fitment, I also use the HPI blitz diff in this truck, Not sure what size Dog-bones you would need with the Arrma Differential

that is basically the whole install. here is all the parts to do the conversion:
AR330018 Arrma front 3mm hinge pin
STRC Blitz aluminum rear carriers (ebay for $15)
Bearings for carriers
Hpi 101235 6x83mm HPI Dog-bones
Hpi 103361 5x39mm out-drives
3 mm drill bit.

And here is the body on, doesn't look too bad with the wheels pushed forward.



Now I am just waiting for the track to open back up and take it out for a test spin!
You don't happen to have a part number on those new wheels? I assume they're by Arrma?
AR510045 -chrome
AR510044 -black

I still have my fingers crossed for the electric yellow
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