Kraton Building a 10th scale 6s Kraton

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Jimbobjr

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 8S
  2. Kraton 6s
  3. Mojave EXB
  4. Outcast 6s
  5. Talion
  6. Typhon 6s
I'm turning my trugified typhon into a 10 scale Kraton. Love the size of the new 4s one but want the quality, toughness and speed of the 6s line. Making a chassis, towers, wing mount and bracing. Extending the axle, hubs, and hexes out on each side will be a challenge.

Typhon arms are too short, Kraton too long even with the talion hubs. Hex extenders I fear will be too weak so I do have some plans on making my own axles and moving the outside bearing where it needs to be.

Want to keep the total weight around 8lbs like the 4s rig. This will take a while being it's right in the middle of a busy time but will keep posting the slow progress.

Heading to church camp with 55 teenagers this coming week so you guys won't see much of me...
Jim

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Forgive my ignorance but isnt the 1/8 scale typhone chassis the size of a 1/10 scale truck? Theoretically its 1/8 of a buggy, but not 1/8 of a truck. Can you bolt all the kraton stuff on and use typhon drive shafts and what ever else u need?
 
Forgive my ignorance but isnt the 1/8 scale typhone chassis the size of a 1/10 scale truck? Theoretically its 1/8 of a buggy, but not 1/8 of a truck. Can you bolt all the kraton stuff on and use typhon drive shafts and what ever else u need?
Yes but than you have an outcast...already got one...
 
I want one please!
 
Will this build be different from the Siren?
The Siren is just a Typhon with a 34mm shorter chassis. It's a suitable platform for the 4s Outcast garb. I made both the Kraton & Outcast. I'll show them off when i get some time :rolleyes:

Typhon arms are too short, Kraton too long even with the talion hubs. Hex extenders I fear will be too weak so I do have some plans on making my own axles and moving the outside bearing where it needs to be.
I used the cheap 25mm & 30mm extensions for both the 1/10 Outcast/Kraton that I conjured up as well as my huge Zennon 1/6 beast & a few others & had no problems sending any of them. But I had to use washers to fill the gaps between the hub & extension for the 6s Kraton hub/axles.
Nice @Jimbobjr!

I feel you're making what some thought the 4s Kraton would be!
EXACTLY :ROFLMAO:(y)
 
It is different from the siren as the wheelbase will be 12.9” and wider. Different from a trugged typhon because it will be 15.75” or there about wide front and rear. Different from the 6s Outcast because it is around 18” wide and rides higher. Basically same deminsions and weight as the 4s Kraton is what I’m shooting for.
Towers will be slightly broader than the typhon and will be using Talion shocks.

The 4s Outcast would make a killer project for this to but I need another Typhon for parts. Chassis will be like the Siren for that one.

Arms will be the tricky part. I ordered some extensions but have a feeling I won’t like the play. Also puts the pillow balls towards the middle and effects steering. Making my own is possible but than have to make dog bones and cvds to go with them. Will cross that bridge when it comes. Most likely stay with the typhon arms and make a dummie bearing to fit in the hub to space it out with the proper counterbore for a bearing in the end. This way I use Kraton hex’s and just have to make new axles.
 
It is different from the siren as the wheelbase will be 12.9” and wider. Different from a trugged typhon because it will be 15.75” or there about wide front and rear. Different from the 6s Outcast because it is around 18” wide and rides higher. Basically same deminsions and weight as the 4s Kraton is what I’m shooting for.
Towers will be slightly broader than the typhon and will be using Talion shocks.

The 4s Outcast would make a killer project for this to but I need another Typhon for parts. Chassis will be like the Siren for that one.

Arms will be the tricky part. I ordered some extensions but have a feeling I won’t like the play. Also puts the pillow balls towards the middle and effects steering. Making my own is possible but than have to make dog bones and cvds to go with them. Will cross that bridge when it comes. Most likely stay with the typhon arms and make a dummie bearing to fit in the hub to space it out with the proper counterbore for a bearing in the end. This way I use Kraton hex’s and just have to make new axles.
It definitely affects steering. I had to bump up the servos to 25kg just to deal with the extra torquing with the Backflip LPs. It wasn't as apparent with the smaller Badlands 3.8 & mx28s. I also want to play around with fabbing my own arms & CVDs for these brutes but it looks like I won't have any downtime soon. I just have to make it an extended WIP :ROFLMAO: There are alternatives out there such as finding models that fit the build & extorting parts here & there. Either way, these cars will see perfection :love:
 
I didn't have to go too far to find the right stuff

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This Force RC Muckraker has the same width as the 4s trucks but it's a huge ass truggy. Luckily, it shares its platform with the Duratrax 835e, which is a buggy. They use the same front center dogbones just like the Kraton/Outcast/Typhon & all 3 sections are bolt-ons as well. So add 835e & rear dogbone & you have instant Kraton 4x4. As for the Outcast, the easiest route will be adding the Force parts to the Siren. The geometries of both suspensions are identical but spacers will have to be used to fill the arm gaps since the Arrma arms are wider.

Seriously, these things sold for $299, $249 before being discontinued, had 4s electronics, all 1/8 duratrax upgrades could be used on them, & now a pseudo big 1/10 can be made from mixing parts. Pure insanity . . . & they sold like rubbish. BTW, if you never seen the diffs in these cars, they are too awesome to describe. Machined, hardened, thick deep grooved spiral cut, I would high-five them if I could. They're straight out of the 835e, looking the part of any Losi kit. If Arrma had these diffs, we would have NO diff teeth problems, EVER :love:

My LHS still has a few of these dirt cheap I can use since I'd rather keep this one the way it is. My kids took the other 2 I had so I never got around to toying with them. They were both 6s upgraded but I immediately returned them to stock when they wanted them :ROFLMAO: My Kraton & Outcast bodies are still boxed. I won't crown them to chassis until I have this mess all figured out. I still need to find some decent wheels for the Kraton or stick with another set of Backflip LPs.
 
Yes I already built a kick ass one of those with shortened Arrma arms to beef up the front end. What I’m building now will be far better...
Btw. It’s a shame the Arrma 4s are not builtas good as the force Muckraker. It is a great platform. All horizon had to do is mod the front end a little and they’d have a great 3diff 4s car that will take a beating like no other I know of...
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Yes I already built a kick ass one of those with shortened Arrma arms to beef up the front end. What I’m building now will be far better...View attachment 43543
I remember. I also have a set of rpms ready to stub for this one as well as all the duratrax braces I could find. I love your fab work. I wish I didn't leave the CNC shop a decade ago. It would of come in handy many times over. There's also a way to use the buggy chassis for the Outcast, but it would require cutting the rear of the chassis & a 62mm rear center dogbone - the same one I made for my finished Tsaagan. Looks like I'll be breaking out the welding torch again :LOL: After experiencing the abuse these diffs can take this is definitely the right platform for the 4x4s.
 
It's inevitable that I would gush after seeing that in a $300 truck. After many years of racing (& bashing) Losi 1/10s with the same cut diffs, I never had one diff issue. Both Losi MTXL & DBXL tortured with 12s setups, no diff issues. My poor ass diff eating 6s X-Maxx, ate more diffs than any car I ever owned, nothing after the China spiral cut diffs. I even blew the rear bulkhead in a jump & the diffs took it like it was nothing. This IS the strongest diff design. 1:1 cars use them for a reason. The more angle on that spiral, the more area of contact, the more power transfer, the longer they will last. The only reason I see more not using them is money, mainly the money made with replacements :ROFLMAO:
 
Or just save your diffs by letting off on the throttle just before you hit the ground. Went through diffs left and right until I learned that. I shimmed the center diff in my outcast when I first bought it almost 2 years ago and have never had a diff problem with it and I launch it!

I went through 2 diffs in 2 days with my typhon. Learned above advice and no problems since, been 2 years since any diff problems!
 
Or just save your diffs by letting off on the throttle just before you hit the ground. Went through diffs left and right until I learned that. I shimmed the center diff in my outcast when I first bought it almost 2 years ago and have never had a diff problem with it and I launch it!

I went through 2 diffs in 2 days with my typhon. Learned above advice and no problems since, been 2 years since any diff problems!
That doesn't help when your blowing diffs while grounded. The X-Maxx the King of that. But landing off power is a rule of thumb everyone should follow. That's basic knowledge. Applying it is another story :LOL: Still, no diffs are designed to withstand suddenly stopping under load.
 
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