building a better Outcast

Rad369

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Since they stop me from posting the last time after all their replies Why build an RC that can't handle the power 4S Because all it does is burn transmission slipper clutches I'm sorry but junk is junk
 

Rad369

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All through your forms everybody's having problems with Bearings slippers Even contacted the company and they told me they would buy me new parts But it tears up a transmission after 2 days never even played with the slipper clutch left that the way it came and it still torn up after 2 days Like I've said before I've had cars that i have Owned for years and never replaced a Bearing
 

jondilly1974

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All through your forms everybody's having problems with Bearings slippers Even contacted the company and they told me they would buy me new parts But it tears up a transmission after 2 days never even played with the slipper clutch left that the way it came and it still torn up after 2 days Like I've said before I've had cars that i have Owned for years and never replaced a Bearing
There isn’t a transmission in an Outcast. Get lost.
 

Rad369

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I just want people who are thinking about buying it know what they're getting Their selves into Might as well stay away from the 10 scale plastic gears
I just want people who are thinking about buying it know what they're getting Their selves into Might as well stay away from the 10 scale plastic gears
There's a slipper and 2 diffs Sorry that you're all pissy
 

Rad369

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You Pay money for an RC $400 it should at least last a week or 2 before finally breaking something Best RC I've ever had was XTM mammoth If this is all you can expect from rc from these days I'd rather go back to the 80's and 90's And as far as my pick for $400 I have to check and see what has metal diff and all metal gears
I bought the truck because I liked it I didn't want the larger version I just didn't know you had to change all the gears to metal And that there was plastic gears in it I've dealt with nitro powerd trucks where everything is metal
 

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aznbaker

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@Rad369 Here's a question, what rc manufacturer is superior over the other manufacturers in your opinion??

Here's a picture of what I have now. In the past I've had a T-Maxx 3.3, HPI RS-4 EVO 3+ Nitro, 1/18 ECX Ruckus, T/A SC-10 (can't remember model #, from 15 years ago)...no matter what, every car I've owned in the past to today, I've had problems whether it's plastic or metal gearing stripping...slipper pads slipping, 2 spd transmission and or center diff locking up...
 

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Lovestricken

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@Rad369 I get it man you want to let everyone know the slipper comes loose. We hear ya loud and clear. If you read through the forum you will also find there is a 1 penny fix to the whole issue. You can't bash on a company because of 1 simple issue. It isn't even a problem but more of an inconvenience. Sorry you are having an issue. Please take the 5 minutes to correct the issue and enjoy the car... if you are that over it I will gladly buy it from you.
 

Rad369

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I bought all new metal gears from hot racing hopefully they will work I even seen the company has their own metal gears coming out I guess they know it's a problem too I should've been more informed and already bought the metal gears for it instead of trying a new brand and finding out later
 

Lovestricken

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You Pay money for an RC $400 it should at least last a week or 2 before finally breaking something Best RC I've ever had was XTM mammoth If this is all you can expect from rc from these days I'd rather go back to the 80's and 90's And as far as my pick for $400 I have to check and see what has metal diff and all metal gears
I bought the truck because I liked it I didn't want the larger version I just didn't know you had to change all the gears to metal And that there was plastic gears in it I've dealt with nitro powerd trucks where everything is metal
That happened because it was driven with the slipper out of adjustment and generating so much heat it melted where the bearings sit and caused the mesh to fall out of alignment. You shouldn't run them when you hear it slipping that bad.
That damage was avoidable completely
 

Alex.M

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I understand that the 4s trucks like the outcast have issues- just like every other rc. You can do a quick bit of reasearch before you buy the car to see what these issues are and how to fix them. @jondilly1974 has a method of sorting out these slipper clutch issues. You can weigh up the pros and cons of different trucks and decide what you want to buy. If your dumping a ton of money into those hot racing gears you must like this truck more than your saying. Close this thread. Nuf said
 

Rad369

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Nope it was whisper quiet The 1st day Like I said I never messed with slipper Then on one of the passes I notice it sounded weird when my son was using it so we turned it off Got home and check the parts out
No I just wanna get somebody's attention if they're gonna buy this truck I want to know all the crap I had to deal with going through mine Cause the only piece of poop about the truck is dam drive line And the factory bearings that come with it Even the company knows their bad Cause they already agreed to replacing all the stuff but I said no because I didn't want no more plastic
 

aznbaker

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Ok, so when you do go all metal diffs, how you're gonna fix the axle issues since, well...once again they plastic.
Just a heads up, the very first issue I had with my 4s Kraton in the first 10 mins running on 4S, snapped the pins off at the u-joints of the rear cv axle/slider axle.

Or did I spoke too soon??
 
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I bought all new metal gears from hot racing hopefully they will work I even seen the company has their own metal gears coming out I guess they know it's a problem too I should've been more informed and already bought the metal gears for it instead of trying a new brand and finding out later
Sorry but i just saw you snapped a sing gear teeth right off... this doesn't happen most of the diff failures is the sun gear wearing down to nothing before stripping so you snaping a ring gear teeth screma s clutch not set up correctly
That happened because it was driven with the slipper out of adjustment and generating so much heat it melted where the bearings sit and caused the mesh to fall out of alignment. You shouldn't run them when you hear it slipping that bad.
That damage was avoidable completely
I personally never melted a slipper only one difff yoke when bearings went fiddlestick u on me. When i felt the slipper was loose i stopped pushing the car or i tried to tightent it up but a lot of folks wont notice and will keep running as is until something melts or fuzes togueter
I have my car conpletly taken apart atm and ussualy after the run im able to grab my spur gear and it wont burn my skin its warm yes but not enough to butn you
 

Rad369

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I plan on replacing those as well as fixing the old Slipper since I bought a whole new one I'll just make sure it doesn't build up any heat and keep my eye on it This time Since the factory Slipper wasn't set right from the factory Cause that's the 1st thing everybody keeps telling me was the adjustment was right I'll just keep on adjusting until there isn't a lot of heat build-up
 
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i did a bit of comparaison yesterday with a breaked in differential and new differential and the differance is considerably big the breaked in diff has almost 100% teeth cobtacts while the brand new diff the sun gear gears look quite oversize vs the frowngear and has gaps i think if they made the mesh really tight fron the factory it has a reason
 

Rad369

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Only thing I did mess with was the pinion on the motor Because it wasn't tight and came loose
 

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