building a better Outcast

[Surchaufeur]

I plan on replacing those as well as fixing the old Slipper since I bought a whole new one I'll just make sure it doesn't build up any heat and keep my eye on it This time Since the factory Slipper wasn't set right from the factory Cause that's the 1st thing everybody keeps telling me was the adjustment was right I'll just keep on adjusting until there isn't a lot of heat build-up

Best thing to do take it apart clean it pur red threadlock on the rear slipper hole where the screw go in 1.25 turn from tight to be sure it wont loose on you thats what i did when i had enough its conplicated to take apart after but well worth it
Also a bit on the end threads
What people has described is the hot rscing alluminum yokes seems to fix the issue of diff stripping in the rear
Here is my rear diff gears after a month with a bad gearmesh

vs new one

You see the gaps of the gears are conpletly differant
The fatal issue to me seems here is to make the diff spin freely like a baby butt from new by moving the shim to the other side or shiming it that way
after a while the gears will only have pretty much 60% gear contact and its going to wear
And in fact most people breaking diffs is on the jratin 4s owners because a lot more stress is put in the rear than the outcast short wheel base can wheelie like if it was nothing while the long wheel base not so much you see

 

[aznbaker]

On a side note, instead of horizon sending out the slipper clutch assembly under warranty, I had them send me all the parts that made up the assembly individually that way, I could set the slipper how I want it from a clean slate.
Just another option...

 

[Rad369]

Hopefully with this and changing the Bearing out in the slipper And proper adjustment I won't have no more problems

 

[Surchaufeur]

Hopefully with this and changing the Bearing out in the slipper And proper adjustment I won't have no more problems

You have to get the alluminum differential yokes from them too or you are conpromising your new differential

 

[Rad369]

This is one of the best transmitter I bought for its day Still got a lot of old stuff like this lying around can't wait to try their rugged version

 

[Surchaufeur]

I use dumborc lul cant see myself trowing 300$cad on a radio

 

[Rad369]

Yeah if you can find them Those are extremely hard to find had to go with plastic ones for now

 

[Surchaufeur]

Yeah if you can find them Those are extremely hard to find had to go with plastic ones for now

Call your hobbyshops they might be able to order them might take a week tho worth a try
I don't want you to maybe strip your diff or something just because of the stupid yokes
Aliexpress has them not ideal but so far thats what i found

 

[Rad369]

They just got a hobby shop around here But they even said parts are scarce right after son trashed mine I bought him a stamped One shock already broke Motor fell out the case After that my diff went in my truck

 

[Rad369]

sold hyper st pro so now onto buying the talion which was my first real pick still building outcast broke handle pulling out motor case trying to find out if all metal granite case will work if so will order

 

[slick2500]

You should get the Hobao Hyper SSTe over the Talion, but that is just my opinion. I'm this close to just selling my Typhon 3s, something is always broken on the damn thing.

 

[Surchaufeur]

You should get the Hobao Hyper SSTe over the Talion, but that is just my opinion. I'm this close to just selling my Typhon 3s, something is always broken on the damn thing.

What did u broke?
me who just bough a typhon 3s with bumpers everywhere screams in a corner

 

[Rad369]

had hyper st pro kit just not into hobao any more i like how easy they make arrma rc simple to work on no need to take a thousand screws out
traxxas no either revo 3.3 cost of replacing lid o ring on tank 15.00 bucks to replace every few runs got it when it first came out still leaves a bad taste in my mouth

 

[slick2500]

What did u broke?
me who just bough a typhon 3s with bumpers everywhere screams in a corner

A arms again and bent the front turnbuckles again. Monster Slash survived the same beating...............

 

[Surchaufeur]

A arms again and bent the front turnbuckles again. Monster Slash survived the same beating...............

Get the mega typhon turnbuckles then you don't run rpm arms?
Slash is more durable because its a short course truck body and big bumper absorb most of the things vs a buggy who has everything exposed

 

[slick2500]

Get the mega typhon turnbuckles then you don't run rpm arms?
Slash is more durable because its a short course truck body and big bumper absorb most of the things vs a buggy who has everything exposed

The Rpm a arms always break right there, it is a design flaw, the arms either need more material there, gussets in the corner or that entire spot needs to be solid.

This is my Monster Slash pretty far from a short course truck at this point.

 

[Surchaufeur]

The Rpm a arms always break right there, it is a design flaw, the arms either need more material there, gussets in the corner or that entire spot needs to be solid.
View attachment 81213

This is my Monster Slash pretty far from a short course truck at this point.
View attachment 81214

Flood the stock arms in wd40
Thats what im doing atm putting multiple coats on them im still running with a broken front arm it doesn't pop out of the pin

 

[slick2500]

Flood the stock arms in wd40
Thats what im doing atm putting multiple coats on them im still running with a broken front arm it doesn't pop out of the pin

I only have one side.
This is what I have for spare a arms at the moment.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Oof im not really a fan of rpm arms because they are expensive and when they break you have to get more of them they hpare 2 times more expensive almost than stock

 

[slick2500]

Oof im not really of rpm arms because they are expensive and when they break you have to get more of them they hpare 2 times more expensive almost than stock

I think I'll just switch back to the stock ones.