Typhon Building a typhoon 6s to race

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I've polished ti before and have everything to do it so that's not a problem I just ordered the titanium now I'm just waiting for that and my front shocks to show up and I can finish putting my buggy together next upgrade will be shock caps that are aluminum with breeders and titanium pins for the lower shock mounting and then upgrade the shock standoffs
I imagine you will making the Shocks into "Emulsion" type setup with those new Bleeder shock caps?? Tossing the bladder setup altogether?
Which upgrade shocks did you go with?
The OE TLRT shocks are actually very plush. With all the Machined Delrin pistons, bottom cartridge parts, and X-rings already in there. Just changing them into Emulsion shocks alone would make them very track worthy. Keep the same weight of oil all around, and not any thicker than stock to Start with.
 
Only if you want to save .5 grams....if that. There are other areas to reduce weight. Need to slam it with all CF to get any real weight reduction. The towers and all.
You plan on racing this with a 4s setup, My TLRT roller was setup as light as I could get. I did run the EXB Fr and Rr alloy braces. Adding uneeded weight right there. Yet honestly, they are simply not needed for track use at all, And the plastic ones will afford some wanted chassis flex which is actually an advantage for many seasoned race guys.
The TLRT shocks are the same as the red Arrma ones. Just use all the machined TLRT delrin machined parts and matching X rings and will perform identical. Makes them very track worthy IMHO. The cheapest way to go. Color of the shocks does nothing for performance. The Losi Eight $shocks$ are the better shocks hands down. How much better may be splitting hairs however. Making them Emulsion for track uses is a plus for sure.
My TLRT with a CNHL 5600mah racepack, 4s lipo in place, full running weight is 8.23 pounds. Yet Still aprox. 1 full pound heavier than the average Track Brand Kit Buggy found on most 1/8 tracks. CF has its advantages to reduce more overall weight.
I would Stay with all OE plastic parts, vs alloys, including the Hubs/uprights. Alloy just adds more weight, offsetting any CF weight reductions gains you made. Also, not all CF is lighter than some composite Plastic in many cases.
 
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Only if you want to save .5 grams....if that. There are other areas to reduce weight. Need to slam it with all CF to get any real weight reduction. The towers and all.
You plan on racing this with a 4s setup, My TLRT roller was setup as light as I could get. I did run the EXB Fr and Rr alloy braces. Adding uneeded weight right there. Yet honestly, they are simply not needed for track use at all, And the plastic ones will afford some wanted chassis flex which is actually an advantage for many seasoned race guys.
The TLRT shocks are the same as the red Arrma ones. Just use all the machined TLRT delrin machined parts and matching X rings and will perform identical. Makes them very track worthy IMHO. The cheapest way to go. Color of the shocks does nothing for performance. The Losi Eight $shocks$ are the better shocks hands down. How much better may be splitting hairs however. Making them Emulsion for track uses is a plus for sure.
My TLRT with a CNHL 5600mah racepack, 4s lipo in place, full running weight is 8.23 pounds. Yet Still aprox. 1 full pound heavier than the average Track Brand Kit Buggy found on most 1/8 tracks. CF has its advantages to reduce more overall weight.
I would Stay with all OE plastic parts, vs alloys, including the Hubs/uprights. Alloy just adds more weight, offsetting any CF weight reductions gains you made. Also, not all CF is lighter than some composite Plastic in many cases.
I imagine you will making the Shocks into "Emulsion" type setup with those new Bleeder shock caps?? Tossing the bladder setup altogether?
Which upgrade shocks did you go with?
The OE TLRT shocks are actually very plush. With all the Machined Delrin pistons, bottom cartridge parts, and X-rings already in there. Just changing them into Emulsion shocks alone would make them very track worthy. Keep the same weight of oil all around, and not any thicker than stock to Start with.

I'm running the tlrt shocks all around I just need to get the bleeder caps do the normal losi 8 aps fit? What weight shock and diff fluid should I start with to get close to what I need
 
I've got the buggy running and driving in 1 piece I just need the shims for the arms anybody know where I can get some?
 
Took mine to the track for a few hours with 100% stock settings. The stock tires were overall terrible for both the outdoor and indoor. Switched to a set if JConcepts Ellipse (green compound) and it made a huge difference. Averaged around mid-22 seconds which I was pleased about.

Changed the Ackerman steering down to its lowest setting and moved up the rear camber link up two notches from the rear housing. Left the rear hubs alone.
 
I've got the buggy running and driving in 1 piece I just need the shims for the arms anybody know where I can get some?
Any 4mm I.D. shims/spacers/washers will also work for the Front upper Arm Castor setting. Aprox. 4mm of total spacing is required. The (3) stock spacer clips, 2 thin and 1 thick clip = aprox. 4mm.
If you can't source the stocker shim "clips", washers/shims work. (stockers tend to pop out at times, FWIW) Captured spacers/washers are actually better.
Shims placed at the front of the Arm increases the Castor angle. Placed to the rear reduces Castor angle.
You can also mix and match spacers at both front and rear, to make the Castor angle somewhere in the middle of both extremes, as desired. Trial and error dictates what works for you.
 
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