Kraton Bullet Proof diff question

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ParkRacing

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I decided to tune all my diffs and wanted to do them well, while I was doing my research on this forum someone posted this video, "sorry I cannot remember which thread it was". however at 1:13 of the video the guy uses 2.2mm drill shaft to replace his stock cross-pin. I am just wondering, I have purchased all the shims, oil and new seals and gaskets, should I bother with this extra step?
*Has anyone ever broken these? is this a known part to break?

 
I have never broken a pin. I've only broken a couple of the larger gears.
I don't see the drill stock as a upgrade,the gear is made of much softer material ,so it will break first.Also the shaft the drill stock goes in to would need to be of hard metal.Something needs to give somewhere !
 
I kept those pins as is for now....I have not busted anything in the diffs so far. I thought about doing it because I have cracked those types of pins in other vehicles... I shimmed the Kraton's diffs but kept the pin as is for now.

One thing I can mention to you on your build....if your front suspension is all the way down, you may feel the diff binding while turning one of the wheels. Mine was doing that and I decided to correct it. I just added a flat washer to the end of one of the A-arms. It moves the dog-bone away from the inner diff cup. This way it doesn't jam into the diff cup when the suspension is traveling all the way down and up. Jamming the diff cup like that may cause a gear to crack.

Some people noticed this and some didn't
 
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Hi Vanning

I did notice the diff binding on my vehicle. But if you want your wheels 100% vertical, I think you have to add a washer on both lower and upper arm, or am I wrong here?
 
You are correct heth....I just corrected the problem on mine and at the same time got the camber where I wanted it. I had to mess around with a few washers and spacers both top and bottom. It didn't take much but I got it where it's fine for me. My front tires seem to have zero camber. It runs fine like that....It's no race vehicle so I don't think about it for too long. :) I do like that I don't feel that binding in the front diff. I rather have zero camber or slight negative....as long as it's acceptable...I'm good. I prefer a steel flat washer over the plastic C shaped shims. I kept loosing the C shaped plastic shims, they kept falling out.
 
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I decided to tune all my diffs and wanted to do them well, while I was doing my research on this forum someone posted this video, "sorry I cannot remember which thread it was". however at 1:13 of the video the guy uses 2.2mm drill shaft to replace his stock cross-pin. I am just wondering, I have purchased all the shims, oil and new seals and gaskets, should I bother with this extra step?
*Has anyone ever broken these? is this a known part to break?


Actually i broke some of those pins....however....this happened always at the same time as the big gear in bottom of cup broke (twice and always same gear) so it could been cause it got shredded by the gears...now after shimmed the diff i never had any trouble tho so i wouldnt go for the drill shaft unless you reeeally wanna :)
 
You are correct heth....I just corrected the problem on mine and at the same time got the camber where I wanted it. I had to mess around with a few washers and spacers both top and bottom. It didn't take much but I got it where it's fine for me. My front tires seem to have zero camber. It runs fine like that....It's no race vehicle so I don't think about it for too long. :) I do like that I don't feel that binding in the front diff. I rather have zero camber or slight negative....as long as it's acceptable...I'm good. I prefer a steel flat washer over the plastic C shaped shims. I kept loosing the C shaped plastic shims, they kept falling out.

What size washer do you use? Part number?
 
Well guess what guys...... I did the shimming and everything else in the video. Did super heavy diff oil ran it thru three packs and decided the oil was too thick for my taste, I am going with a standard truggy set up of 7 10 3...
Anyways what I wanted to say was when I pulled the front diff apart guess what.... a diff pin was broken in three pieces. So yeah a pin can easily break before a diff gear.

This must have happend at the very end of the run because there were no issues!
 

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I wonder if you were 2 wheeling it for a while and didn't notice front wheels not spinning during last part of your run. Maybe drill bit upgrade has some merit. I'm surprised planetary gear didn't break first. I'd recheck clearances with your rebuild/shimming. Also heavy center fluid should remove extra load/free spin from front diff, may help from repeat failure if you're hard on the throttle like I bash.
 
I wonder if you were 2 wheeling it for a while and didn't notice front wheels not spinning during last part of your run. Maybe drill bit upgrade has some merit. I'm surprised planetary gear didn't break first. I'd recheck clearances with your rebuild/shimming. Also heavy center fluid should remove extra load/free spin from front diff, may help from repeat failure if you're hard on the throttle like I bash.
I don't know what happened? I don't bash that hard? Shimming may be too tight!
 
I don't know what happened? I don't bash that hard? Shimming may be too tight!

On my diffs i could put one shim behind both planetary gears on the centerdiff...on front and rear it got too tight so i losened the 4 screws just never so little until the diff felt good that way i could fit one shim on both planetary gears in front and rear. yes so i put 6 total :)
 
I've only shimmed my center diff thus far, too busy with kids/life of late, I used 2 planetary total and 6 total satellite shims with 100k fluid and has been working great in Typhon where I had planetary gear breakage before. Plan to replace F/R diff fluids soon with new Outcast and shim if needed once gears break in and foul up fluid, in a pack or 2 more. 100k center worked well on Outcast maiden voyage, leaving to bash now.
 
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