Kraton BurninTrees Garage

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Messages
183
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Location
Fort Worth, TX
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
  2. Kraton EXB
Picked up in Feb 2021, getting back into RC after ~17yrs. Saw a dude walking in the park driving one last summer and it set the wheels in motion and got me looking into them.


OG V1 Everything Stock except I swapped the deans connectors to IC5

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Within the first couple times driving it , the servo died and quick and painless death. After some research I learned thats kinda just a thing that happens and to keep them in stock lol. I went with the JX CLS-HV7346MG . I picked up a Flysky FS-GT5 at the same time for separate L/R steering EPA adjustment, plus I just wanted a better remote :cool:

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Before I drove it for the first time I went to my local hobby shop which is small and I was talking with the owner about buying this used Kraton and what maintenance I should perform and his response was "None, drive it till you break it". What I wished he would have told me was check the diffs haha. At this point I had the car a week or so and not doing any kind of crazy driving and all the sudden it stopped driving. Turned out to be a broken center diff gear. I was lucky to find a complete center diff from my LHS so in it went with 100K oil.

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After that, I was back to bashing. Buddy and I found a sweet local spot. Giant mounds of dirt for local city trail repair.

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Dug in a few jumps

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After driving around in a local park and popped the body off after ~20 mins of driving and saw my motor had melted the plastic cover for the wires. I did several full throttle pulls in medium grass, nothing too crazy. I have been told by a few people now they're not surprised.




At this point I have had the car down more then up and as I do more research I am learning what a money sink these things can be, especially starting back off as a n00b with a used Kraton 6s. I also started having trouble with the pillar ball screws backing out, and the pillar ball cap on one side feels cross threaded so it was hard to adjust the tension. So at this point I am bummed having some issues, and a little disappointed and I don't know what else to do except to double down and buy and EXB 😁

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The V1 Kraton sits quite a bit lower than the newer models and the EXB. Starting with V2 heavier shock springs were from the factory

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I figure with 2 Kratons I should be able to keep one going while the other is getting repaired lol. For the EXB I went with the Hobbywing Max6/1650kv and ordered the same JX servo and another Flysky receiver. For the V1 Kraton, now dubbed The Beater, I picked up a new take off Spektrum motor from JennyRC. I also picked up RPM front arms upper/lower, Kraton V2 shock springs, and front/rear knuckles. Once I got the new Spektrum motor installed I found the ESC fried also, so I picked up a Spektrum 150A from my LHS. I also installed a yeah racing heatsink/fan on the Spektrum motor for the V1.

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Picked up in Feb 2021, getting back into RC after ~17yrs. Saw a dude walking in the park driving one last summer and it set the wheels in motion and got me looking into them.


OG V1 Everything Stock except I swapped the deans connectors to IC5

View attachment 134461

Within the first couple times driving it , the servo died and quick and painless death. After some research I learned thats kinda just a thing that happens and to keep them in stock lol. I went with the JX CLS-HV7346MG . I picked up a Flysky FS-GT5 at the same time for separate L/R steering EPA adjustment, plus I just wanted a better remote :cool:

View attachment 134464



Before I drove it for the first time I went to my local hobby shop which is small and I was talking with the owner about buying this used Kraton and what maintenance I should perform and his response was "None, drive it till you break it". What I wished he would have told me was check the diffs haha. At this point I had the car a week or so and not doing any kind of crazy driving and all the sudden it stopped driving. Turned out to be a broken center diff gear. I was lucky to find a complete center diff from my LHS so in it went with 100K oil.

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After that, I was back to bashing. Buddy and I found a sweet local spot. Giant mounds of dirt for local city trail repair.

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Dug in a few jumps

View attachment 134488

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After driving around in a local park and popped the body off after ~20 mins of driving and saw my motor had melted the plastic cover for the wires. I did several full throttle pulls in medium grass, nothing too crazy. I have been told by a few people now they're not surprised.




At this point I have had the car down more then up and as I do more research I am learning what a money sink these things can be, especially starting back off as a n00b with a used Kraton 6s. I also started having trouble with the pillar ball screws backing out, and the pillar ball cap on one side feels cross threaded so it was hard to adjust the tension. So at this point I am bummed having some issues, and a little disappointed and I don't know what else to do except to double down and buy and EXB 😁

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The V1 Kraton sits quite a bit lower than the newer models and the EXB. Starting with V2 heavier shock springs were from the factory

View attachment 134496


I figure with 2 Kratons I should be able to keep one going while the other is getting repaired lol. For the EXB I went with the Hobbywing Max6/1650kv and ordered the same JX servo and another Flysky receiver. For the V1 Kraton, now dubbed The Beater, I picked up a new take off Spektrum motor from JennyRC. I also picked up RPM front arms upper/lower, Kraton V2 shock springs, and front/rear knuckles. Once I got the new Spektrum motor installed I found the ESC fried also, so I picked up a Spektrum 150A from my LHS. I also installed a yeah racing heatsink/fan on the Spektrum motor for the V1.

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Welcome to the Forum!

Nice rigs and sweet bashing spot! Get yourself the m2c mounting plate for the Max6 esc, mounts up perfect!

https://m2cracing.net/cars-and-trucks/545-m2c3320-6s-esc-plate-.html

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There should be a trophy for melting motors 😬😭😤
Might your motor have burned out. I am slightly confused did you get the v1 kraton used and that is the one with the burned out motor. If so might it have been damaged from the previous owner
It was for sale as a stock roller, and when I inquired about it he tossed in the original unused motor/esc for a little more dough. There were very few scratches on the bottom of the chassis when I got it, so I can't really fault the guy or believe he was deceiving me. It was in good condition when I got it, but as someone new going into a used purchase, I didn't know what to look for, so I tried to stay away from anyone elses project. But I can say, if it sat on the shelf for years being a V1 since he had other cars, diff fluids could have leaked because the center was almost empty, as well as the front. The rear was full of diff goo.
Welcome to the Forum!

Nice rigs and sweet bashing spot! Get yourself the m2c mounting plate for the Max6 esc, mounts up perfect!

https://m2cracing.net/cars-and-trucks/545-m2c3320-6s-esc-plate-.html

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that is sweet. is it only for the m2c chassis or stock exb as well?

Edit**

Read the site description, works with stock chassis.
 
Ok just was wondering. I recently burned out my talion's motor. (first run of the season) (40mph on loose gravel is not a good combo) It was a the stock motor. I got the car new so I am the only person who can be blamed. But if I hadn't felt a burning hot motor and smelled the smell of a burnt motor I would not have been able to tell at all.
 
Nice rigs @BurninTrees , get a cheap infrared thermeter and check your motors mid pack or so and adjust your pinion size to the outside temp and your driving style/locations. Keep them around 170f or so. Gear up in the winter when grass and temperature is lower. Have fun!
 
Ok just was wondering. I recently burned out my talion's motor. (first run of the season) (40mph on loose gravel is not a good combo) It was a the stock motor. I got the car new so I am the only person who can be blamed. But if I hadn't felt a burning hot motor and smelled the smell of a burnt motor I would not have been able to tell at all.
that sucks. I noticed the melted connector, it still ran after that for a few packs worth. I had already ordered the replacement motor so I ran it kinda hard. It hit a hard chunk of dirt, stopped, and let out a giant puff of smoke. I figured it was the motor, but it may have been the ESC lol. Either way, i ended up replacing both. Theres a sweet deal on a new 6s take off spektrum motor/esc on the classifieds right now if you're still looking.
Nice rigs @BurninTrees , get a cheap infrared thermeter and check your motors mid pack or so and adjust your pinion size to the outside temp and your driving style/locations. Keep them around 170f or so. Gear up in the winter when grass and temperature is lower. Have fun!
Thanks, definitely good advice lol. I have the thermometer now, need to get in the habbit of stopping and checking the temp. I am running a 20T pinion on the EXB, and whatever was stock on the V1. I should probably check that... :whistle:
Living in Texas, I am hoping they handle the heat pretty well up to the 90s outside. After triple digits I tend to stay inside.
 
I don't have a instant read thermometer, but every 5ish minutes I will feel the motor. If it feels very warms I will take it in and let it cool down.
I got the hobbystar 4092 brushless motor and I am not disappointed
 
I don't have a instant read thermometer, but every 5ish minutes I will feel the motor. If it feels very warms I will take it in and let it cool down.
I got the hobbystar 4092 brushless motor and I am not disappointed
When it takes the finger prints right off your thumb, it’s time for a cool down.
 
On my EXB I have the HW 4985SL and I am looking to attach the Velineon 3362 1600XL heatsink and a PowerHobby dual fan shroud setup. I plan on putting some thermal pad between the motor and heatsink and then using an adjustable hose clamp. Any other thoughts or ideas on keeping the heatsink attached to the motor?
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Seems like a lot of guys will use two wire ties. A hose clamp of that diameter will take up a lot of space on the motor and will not have enough room. I guess you just give it a go and see. Like the thermal pad idea for proper heat transfer.
 
Well, unfortutenately the Traxxas 3362 Velineon 1600XL heatsink does not fit well on the HW 4985. As you're sliding it over the can, it will not fit over the ribs of the motor and the heatsink is thick solid aluminum and it does not flex. I was able to get it over the ribs and half way on the motor before it got pretty stuck and i lost some skin sliding it back off. Definitely not room for any thermal pad. Maybe using a thermal paste would give it enough lubrication to slide on easier. I am a little concerned the heatsink wouldn't be making good metal to metal contact for heat transfer although sliding it over the motor it was a super tight fit. I think for now I will mount up the fans to blow on the motor and forego the heatsink for now. For what its worth, the heatsink was so tight a hose clamp would not be needed to secure it, but there was enough room under to motor for the hose clamp to fit and the motor to mount up.
 
On todays episode of Pimp My Air Compressor. The other day I picked up this Harbor Freight quiet series 2Gal compressor and I agree that it is super quiet. Swapped out the outlet quick connectors for some high flow connectors because the factory ones leak with anything other than industrial style connectors. Also got a safety quick disconnect on the tool side so no more loud blow outs when disconnecting tools. Got an air dryer setup when blowing on my rack 😉

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Got the fan shroud for the HW4985SL cut up so it sit on top of the motor. Had to remove some of the inside material so allow it to sit flush against the motor. There is a nice air gap to allow air flow across the motor fins and I cut a little relief hole for the roll cage pin. I have some fan connector splitters and adapters. I am wondering if I should connect in at the Max6 fan and run 3 fans from that 1 connector, or if I should wire in at the receiver box. These fans pull ~0.65a @ 7.4V. I have a 3rd to put on the HWMax6 ESC so I think I will need to connect into battery instead at some point. The fans are a super tight fit into the shroud and you could run without screws if you didn't have a screen or anything to put over the fans.

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On todays episode of Pimp My Air Compressor. The other day I picked up this Harbor Freight quiet series 2Gal compressor and I agree that it is super quiet. Swapped out the outlet quick connectors for some high flow connectors because the factory ones leak with anything other than industrial style connectors. Also got a safety quick disconnect on the tool side so no more loud blow outs when disconnecting tools. Got an air dryer setup when blowing on my rack 😉

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Got the fan shroud for the HW4985SL cut up so it sit on top of the motor. Had to remove some of the inside material so allow it to sit flush against the motor. There is a nice air gap to allow air flow across the motor fins and I cut a little relief hole for the roll cage pin. I have some fan connector splitters and adapters. I am wondering if I should connect in at the Max6 fan and run 3 fans from that 1 connector, or if I should wire in at the receiver box. These fans pull ~0.65a @ 7.4V. I have a 3rd to put on the HWMax6 ESC so I think I will need to connect into battery instead at some point. The fans are a super tight fit into the shroud and you could run without screws if you didn't have a screen or anything to put over the fans.

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Why leave to old switches in the rack when you have a Ubiquiti switch? What are all the Dell servers for?
 
@jondilly1974 I left the old switches mainly because I only recently got the UBNT switch. I still get into small business with older Dell switches and Sonic wall devices, so I also have a SonicWall TZ300 up and going. As far as the Dell servers, the one up top runs PfSense bare metal on ATT 1G fiber and provides most of the network related funtions, dns/dhcp/vpn ect.. I have another Dell server running VMware esxi for various always on VM's such as TrueNas, Unifi Controller, some telemetry stuff like LibreNMS. I have a 3rd Dell server I power on for small projects or messing around, game servers and such. I have 2 other Dell servers I don't use anymore and should get rid. Between the old servers and the old switches my rack will be looking pretty bare, atleast more so than now. Its also fully enclosed so there is that.

EDIT** So to answer your question...because my rack will look even more barren lol.
 
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