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Morning. Yeah I have had that happen before when I first switched the extruder stepper to all metal. I ended up taking that metal insert out of the spring. Never had an issue since
 
He hasn't swapped it yet as I know of.
jondilly1974 said:
Did you calibrate the z steps when you swapped the extruder?
Click to expand...
🤫 little sneak peek

16253200440693923977141641326924.jpg
 
JoshHefnerX said:
Ah, was thinking down by the nozzle. You said you have an all metal extruder, assuming aftermarket. Wonder if you could replace or trim the spring on it?

I think the new pla you ordered, will probably help.

My understanding is the pla is basically corn starch, and it will get softer when its full of moisture.

My pla leaves a very slight imprint but nothing bad enough to wedge in the tube.

There's an aftermarket extruder that's had some good reviews and isn't terribly expensive if the pla/spring doesn't help.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SY745C...olid=3RBJIUZNNLGYR&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Was thinking about picking one up.
Click to expand...


It's actually the opposite.. water soaked pla gets brittle, not softer...👍

@FatCatRC ...If the Hobbed gear is pinching the filament to the point it enlarges, then it's being run over to many times..

What's your retraction distance? And speed?

What's your retraction minimum travel?

What's your maximum retraction count?

What's your minimum extrusion distance window?

As for the picture... Is coasting enabled, if so what's the value?

What is your maximum resolution setting?

The pimples it leaves looks like a momentary stall at which it raises per layer.. I assume your z seem is set to random with the behavior shown.. watch the machine and when the zits happen.. does it stall for a split second?.. incorrect maximum resolution can stall the processor..

The gaps for sure look like moisture pops, especially if in vase mode.. but do not rule out an incorrect coasting volume if it's enabled..


The bottom line is a clean smooth print all depends on slicer settings.. even the crappiest machines can produce stunning prints if the slicer is setup correctly..
 
Camaroboy383 said:
It's actually the opposite.. water soaked pla gets brittle, not softer...👍

@FatCatRC ...If the Hobbed gear is pinching the filament to the point it enlarges, then it's being run over to many times..

What's your retraction distance? And speed?

What's your retraction minimum travel?

What's your maximum retraction count?

What's your minimum extrusion distance window?

As for the picture... Is coasting enabled, if so what's the value?

What is your maximum resolution setting?

The pimples it leaves looks like a momentary stall at which it raises per layer.. I assume your z seem is set to random with the behavior shown.. watch the machine and when the zits happen.. does it stall for a split second?.. incorrect maximum resolution can stall the processor..

The gaps for sure look like moisture pops, especially if in vase mode.. but do not rule out an incorrect coasting volume if it's enabled..


The bottom line is a clean smooth print all depends on slicer settings.. even the crappiest machines can produce stunning prints if the slicer is setup correctly..
Click to expand...
I believe he is just using the standard cura profile currently.
 
Lovestricken said:
He hasn't swapped it yet as I know of.

🤫 little sneak peek

View attachment 155650
Click to expand...
The extruder I did yes, that the board and the bl touch were my first upgrades. The hot end I have not done yet.
Camaroboy383 said:
It's actually the opposite.. water soaked pla gets brittle, not softer...👍

@FatCatRC ...If the Hobbed gear is pinching the filament to the point it enlarges, then it's being run over to many times..

What's your retraction distance? And speed?

What's your retraction minimum travel?

What's your maximum retraction count?

What's your minimum extrusion distance window?

As for the picture... Is coasting enabled, if so what's the value?

What is your maximum resolution setting?

The pimples it leaves looks like a momentary stall at which it raises per layer.. I assume your z seem is set to random with the behavior shown.. watch the machine and when the zits happen.. does it stall for a split second?.. incorrect maximum resolution can stall the processor..

The gaps for sure look like moisture pops, especially if in vase mode.. but do not rule out an incorrect coasting volume if it's enabled..


The bottom line is a clean smooth print all depends on slicer settings.. even the crappiest machines can produce stunning prints if the slicer is setup correctly..
Click to expand...
That is a lot of fancy settings I have no idea about. I litterally just started using cura. Never done anything in 3d before. This is all new. I have been watching lots of videos but it's a lot to learn. And some like to do gcode while others use cura so it's hard to find consistent info on things like settings and layers etc. I was thinking it was retracting quite far and fast myself but I haven't touched those settings. When I was doing my cover for my goggles that has a lot of holes in the design it would retract back and forth constantly for the first few layers to make that design. Thats when the most problems happened
 
Last edited:
FatCatRC said:
The extruder I did yes, that the board and the bl touch were my first upgrades. The hot end I have not done yet.

That is a lot of fancy settings I have no idea about. I litterally just started using cura. Never done anything in 3d before. This is all new. I have been watching lots of videos but it's a lot to learn. And some like to do gcode while others use cura so it's hard to find consistent info on things like settings and layers etc. I was thinking it was retracting quite far and fast myself but I haven't touched those settings. When I was doing my cover for my goggles that has a lot of holes in the design it would retract back and forth constantly for the first few layers to make that design. Thats when the most problems happened
Click to expand...
Have you tried using the CHEP profiles? What version of Cura are you running? What firmware? What board revision?
 
FatCatRC said:
The extruder I did yes, that the board and the bl touch were my first upgrades. The hot end I have not done yet.

That is a lot of fancy settings I have no idea about. I litterally just started using cura. Never done anything in 3d before. This is all new. I have been watching lots of videos but it's a lot to learn. And some like to do gcode while others use cura so it's hard to find consistent info on things like settings and layers etc. I was thinking it was retracting quite far and fast myself but I haven't touched those settings. When I was doing my cover for my goggles that has a lot of holes in the design it would retract back and forth constantly for the first few layers to make that design. Thats when the most problems happened
Click to expand...


Well.. it's all gcode.. the slicer just compiles and sorts it.. don't even bother altering code, it's nothing you need now, or possibly ever by any means..

In cura, click on the settings gear and click show all.. all of the above mentioned values will be in the right side drop down tabs..

The thing you printed with alot of holes would be directly related to minimum extrusion distance window.. that setting determines retraction,( and z hop if enabled).. it controls how close together the retractions are.. if the value is low it will retract constantly.. certain models need certain settings, it will be a steep learning curve to recognize what a model needs for setting's by seeing it printed..

Cura is very explanatory, if you hover over the setting in question it will give a brief rundown of the settings function, which can help you along..

Best practice is the same model over and over again, playing with settings until the print is clean.. it will help get a grasp on the settings and what they do..
 
FatCatRC said:
Thank you, ya I know fak all about cura or 3d printers. The first time I tried cura was when I got the printer.
Click to expand...
Yep I’m not far behind. I’ve had a printer for a year or so and just passing along what I’ve found helpful. I tried to change way too many things at once and lost track of what caused my issues. Definitely don’t do that. Get it dialed in and only change things that really need upgraded for a specific reason.
 
Does anyone have or can compile me a working firmware that requires no configuring for an ender 3 pro with bltouch 3.1(stock mount) and 4.2.7 board? I don't care what flavour you have/use as long as it works.
 
I picked one up off someone's site for the e3 v2 w/ 4.2.7 board and it worked well. I'd think it'd work for you... I'll see if I can find the site again. Last one I had to compile for myself because of the ender extender bed.
https://smith3d.com/ender-3-v2-bltouch-firmware-installation-guide-by-smith3d-com/

There's a 4.2.7 load on there. I used his build on my original bltouch and it worked beautifully. Good luck
 
dure0016 said:
How does the filament exit the dehydrator during printing? Any chance you have a pic of the setup?
Click to expand...


Drill a hole..👍
FatCatRC said:
Does anyone have or can compile me a working firmware that requires no configuring for an ender 3 pro with bltouch 3.1(stock mount) and 4.2.7 board? I don't care what flavour you have/use as long as it works.
Click to expand...


Why are you messing with firmware?
 
dure0016 said:
How does the filament exit the dehydrator during printing? Any chance you have a pic of the setup?
Click to expand...
Yep drilled a hole and put a boden tube fitting in the hole as a guide

image.jpg
 
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