Kraton Camber settings arrma Kraton

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vale-vox

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Thailand
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
Ciao Guys ,

I would like to ask you how to set up the camber and the toe in the kraton. unfortunatly i'm very new in the world of RC cars . I hope you can understand me.

Thanks in advance!
 
The fact that you are asking is very positive. A lot of new RC'ers don't even consider it. Read up on wheel aligning in general. This translates from real scale cars. There is neg and pos Toe as well as Camber. Camber is adjusted at the pillow balls with shims or removing as needed. I find removing the washer on the front lower pillow balls gets Camber very close Out the box these Arrmas are not best aligned at all. Perfectly vertical is what I aim for in Camber. I like Toe zeroed or slightly positive. Negative toe will bring front of the wheels inward (toe-in). Not recommended. The steering will get Darty and tend to drift left or right at speed.
Its hard to get it perfect. A good eye with the rig on a perfectly flat surface is where you start. The rig should be at its running weight. (with Lipos in place) when doing this. Good wheel alignment makes a difference. There are camber/wheel alignment gauges to help get it very close. Not absolutely necessary, but I have them.
Zero Camber is when the tops of the wheels are perpendicular to the ground surface. You get best tire contact.
The Toe is adjusted with a wrench at the steering turnbuckles. The servo/rig must be powered On and centered to start all these adjustments.
Hope this gives you a start. Others may chime in with their thoughts :cool:
BTW , don't forget your rear wheel Camber. Rear Toe is fixed (toe-in) and not adjustable. The Fixed Rear wheel Toe-In keeps the rig going straight on hard acceleration. By design and for most all RC rigs.
 
Last edited:
The fact that you are asking is very positive. A lot of new RC'ers don't even consider it. Read up on wheel aligning in general. This translates from real scale cars. There is neg and pos Toe as well as Camber. Camber is adjusted at the pillow balls with shims or removing as needed. I find removing the washer on the front lower pillow balls gets Camber very close Out the box these Arrmas are not best aligned at all. Perfectly vertical is what I aim for in Camber. I like Toe zeroed or slightly positive. Negative toe will bring front of the wheels inward (toe-in). Not recommended. The steering will get Darty and tend to drift left or right at speed.
Its hard to get it perfect. A good eye with the rig on a perfectly flat surface is where you start. The rig should be at its running weight. (with Lipos in place) when doing this. Good wheel alignment makes a difference. There are camber/wheel alignment gauges to help get it very close. Not absolutely necessary, but I have them.
Zero Camber is when the tops of the wheels are perpendicular to the ground surface. You get best tire contact.
The Toe is adjusted with a wrench at the steering turnbuckles. The servo/rig must be powered On and centered to start all these adjustments.
Hope this gives you a start. Others may chime in with their thoughts :cool:
BTW , don't forget your rear wheel Camber. Rear Toe is fixed (toe-in) and not adjustable. The Fixed Rear wheel Toe-In keeps the rig going straight on hard acceleration. By design and for most all RC rigs.

The fact that you are asking is very positive. A lot of new RC'ers don't even consider it. Read up on wheel aligning in general. This translates from real scale cars. There is neg and pos Toe as well as Camber. Camber is adjusted at the pillow balls with shims or removing as needed. I find removing the washer on the front lower pillow balls gets Camber very close Out the box these Arrmas are not best aligned at all. Perfectly vertical is what I aim for in Camber. I like Toe zeroed or slightly positive. Negative toe will bring front of the wheels inward (toe-in). Not recommended. The steering will get Darty and tend to drift left or right at speed.
Its hard to get it perfect. A good eye with the rig on a perfectly flat surface is where you start. The rig should be at its running weight. (with Lipos in place) when doing this. Good wheel alignment makes a difference. There are camber/wheel alignment gauges to help get it very close. Not absolutely necessary, but I have them.
Zero Camber is when the tops of the wheels are perpendicular to the ground surface. You get best tire contact.
The Toe is adjusted with a wrench at the steering turnbuckles. The servo/rig must be powered On and centered to start all these adjustments.
Hope this gives you a start. Others may chime in with their thoughts :cool:
BTW , don't forget your rear wheel Camber. Rear Toe is fixed (toe-in) and not adjustable. The Fixed Rear wheel Toe-In keeps the rig going straight on hard acceleration. By design and for most all RC rigs.
Wow
The fact that you are asking is very positive. A lot of new RC'ers don't even consider it. Read up on wheel aligning in general. This translates from real scale cars. There is neg and pos Toe as well as Camber. Camber is adjusted at the pillow balls with shims or removing as needed. I find removing the washer on the front lower pillow balls gets Camber very close Out the box these Arrmas are not best aligned at all. Perfectly vertical is what I aim for in Camber. I like Toe zeroed or slightly positive. Negative toe will bring front of the wheels inward (toe-in). Not recommended. The steering will get Darty and tend to drift left or right at speed.
Its hard to get it perfect. A good eye with the rig on a perfectly flat surface is where you start. The rig should be at its running weight. (with Lipos in place) when doing this. Good wheel alignment makes a difference. There are camber/wheel alignment gauges to help get it very close. Not absolutely necessary, but I have them.
Zero Camber is when the tops of the wheels are perpendicular to the ground surface. You get best tire contact.
The Toe is adjusted with a wrench at the steering turnbuckles. The servo/rig must be powered On and centered to start all these adjustments.
Hope this gives you a start. Others may chime in with their thoughts :cool:
BTW , don't forget your rear wheel Camber. Rear Toe is fixed (toe-in) and not adjustable. The Fixed Rear wheel Toe-In keeps the rig going straight on hard acceleration. By design and for most all RC rigs.
Thank you very y much for the professional and ns precise reply. I did a as mentioned. The car drives perfectly now. Anyhow i just had a bit of a problem with the dog bone as is constantly popping out the right cup. This is happening since i bought the kraton and i may know why. The first time the dog bone pop out, broke the sway bar and since then i ride without it, this means that the travel of the arms ia way longer during landings on big jumps. As i live in Thailand its kind of hard to order stuff and get it delivered within a month... So i will have to wait. Take care and thanks again for your kindness.
 
Sway bars do limit travel to some extent. But I would focus on droop limits more so to prevent the dog bones from popping out.
 
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