Cameras and Wind Noise

Grumpy Old Man RC

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I was gonna make a video but this guy does a decent job.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SdT2ydlx-gc
My Amateur radio is in a room with a couple of fans and it has a big wind thing on it that makes it look like half of a bull scrotum. Picks up no wind noise.
I also use amplified electronic cutoff hearing protection while playing with some of my other toys and they have little foam thingies on the mics and they keep out all but the strongest wind gusts.
There's a reason the pros use all that foam or "dead cats" on their mics. It really does help.
 

olds97_lss

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Will have to see if I can do somethign like that on my hero5 but still be able to put it in the cage holder. I think it has a couple microphones on it. Then again... I don't talk, except for the occasional outburst because I did something stupid or cool.
 

Grumpy Old Man RC

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Will have to see if I can do somethign like that on my hero5 but still be able to put it in the cage holder. I think it has a couple microphones on it. Then again... I don't talk, except for the occasional outburst because I did something stupid or cool.
I have an Akaso Brave6 and use the waterproof case because I'm so clumsy. Drilled a little hole right in front of the mike and just slip a small piece of open cell foam in place, then the camers and shut it up. I may need a slightly thicker piece of foam and I didn't do this at first but playing around with other things and recording it seems to be fine now.
 

olds97_lss

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I have one of those cases for the gopro. It muffles the sound quite a bit and would cut down wind noise anyway, but the camera runs hot in there. I keep mine on for the entire duration of a pack or a run with nitro, so it's on for 20-60 minutes at a time.

I have that case above my work area on my bench and leave the back open while recording myself wrenching. With the back open, the heat is able to get out.
 

Grumpy Old Man RC

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I have one of those cases for the gopro. It muffles the sound quite a bit and would cut down wind noise anyway, but the camera runs hot in there. I keep mine on for the entire duration of a pack or a run with nitro, so it's on for 20-60 minutes at a time.

I have that case above my work area on my bench and leave the back open while recording myself wrenching. With the back open, the heat is able to get out.
If you don't need it to be waterproof, drill some vent holes in strategic places and thanks for the idea.
 

Mike-NLD

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I have one of those cases for the gopro. It muffles the sound quite a bit and would cut down wind noise anyway, but the camera runs hot in there. I keep mine on for the entire duration of a pack or a run with nitro, so it's on for 20-60 minutes at a time.

I have that case above my work area on my bench and leave the back open while recording myself wrenching. With the back open, the heat is able to get out.
Does the camera need to be waterproof?

My older hero3+ and hero4 came with a backdoor wich only has an outer rim.. Just enough to keep the camera fixed in there.. And more then enough space to breath free air..

Now im thinkin of it.. I wanna use it.. LOL.. But need to find it first!
 

olds97_lss

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I bought this one Quelima SQ12 Mini this sure is a nice tip with the foam over the mic, next thing is howto mount it on the car without drilling holes in the lexan. How did you mount it?
It's an ongoing process... the hero5 session is a heavy SOB and any type of legged mount just adds to the leverage the camera has. I've tried the super duty velcro, complete fail. Zipties, fail. Dual sided tape, fail. Dual sided tape and holes/screws with a backing plate, worked until the rails of the camera mount plate get ripped off, which is about the 3rd jump.

Now I just gave up trying to use the camera mount at all, bought an alloy frame that had a removable leg, put HD velcro on the bottom/side. On my outcast, I made an L bracket that screwed to the back of the cab with 4 screws then came out the side of the body. With the HD velcro on it and a velcro wrap, it held on for a while, but would still pop off on less than stellar landings. The leverage/weight of the camera cracked the entire side of the body at the seams.

On my savage and revo, I cared less about the body, drilled a couple larger holes in the hood, put some HD velcro on it, riveted a thin metal plate underneath, then used a velcro wrap to strap it to the hood. That seems to work best, but I really miss seeing the wheel articulation as you drive/bash, but I still see the hood in the field of view, so it doesn't feel like a camera floating through the air and gives a bit of perspective.

I may try something more permanent on the outcast and savage at least to hard mount the camera under the body, then put a hole in the windshield for the camera to see. Not sure yet, but I do like the video with the PIP going on, so I'll try to figure out something.
 

uncels

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Previous i owned a $40 rc car, and had tons of fun with it. (You should check this out, it's a Latrax Teton clone & really fast. (advised 14+ age)). This is actually a rock climber & has an interior and no windshield, on 1 youtube movie they mounted a mini cam in the driverseat, so they had driverview while bashing it. So your idea of letting the cam look through the windshield is very good, but since we don't have an interior in the Arrma's maybe a sturdy aluminium strip onto the chassis will do & let the cam peep through the windshield, but the cam needs to be tiny and light for that purpose. (Sorry i can't find the vid anymore)
 

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