The BEST way:
Socket wrench Hex bits. Wiha makes great quality METRIC hex bits available for both 1/4” and 3/8” sockets. If you own a manual or digital torque socket wrench, they ensure how tight all the chassis screws are torqued in an even distribution. Using a socket wrench, you’ll be able to apply much more torque vs a typical MIP Hex driver. Additionally, with a socket bit, you can tap the bit into the screw’s hex pattern to ensure you have the bit as far and straight as possible before using the wrench to loosen the screw.
Next best way:
Standalone “L” or stubby “T” Hex tools. Again, Wiha makes quality ones. Use the short side into the screw’s hex pattern so that you can use the long arm of the tool to apply steady force to loosen the bit.
If those are not an option:
A straight end hex driver like MIP thorp hex driver. Just don’t over do it as these tools are not meant for serious torque applications and the driver will snap pretty because of the long reach.
Just don’t do this:
Ball-end bits: they just don’t have the “bite” and are weak at the tapered-neck of the ball-end.
And never do this:
Speed bits in a powered driver. Don’t get me wrong here, I use a powered driver and 1/4” MIP bits all the time, but never to remove a stubborn screw in a chassis or other aluminum part. I also keep the drag on the lowest setting, then use my hex driver or socket bits when it needs to be really tightened down.
