+Can anyone verify which aftermarket Felony chassis braces are compatible with 8mm driveshafts?

[InTheZone]

I just purchased an Arrma roller and am in the process of completing it. Just learned about the terrible driveshafts so I have some balanced TRC titanium shafts coming. I would like to use metal chassic braces instead of shaving the stock plastic braces. Has anyone here used aftermarket front and rear braces with cutouts that clear the thicker driveshaft?

 

[#ARRMArcfanboy4life]

I am pretty sure the driveshaft manufacturer said that the original braces would need to be shaved down a little, I am guessing aftermarket is the same. I would try to drill new holes in the chassis to mount the braces in. I might be wrong, but I don't think on-road need aluminum braces. If you crash at high speed, it won't matter. If you crash at low speed, the plastic braces will still work. Maybe a tower to tower brace would work better for you.

 

[Liquid SSSnake]

I've done it with the 8mm shafts and alloy brace, The diameter of the standard Dremel sanding drum is the perfect guide to clearance the front brace.

Also replace the Safe-D wobble input cups with something else, M2C, HR, Tekno....

 

[Senton_Prime]

You could try crcu.. I think there are are others as well but not certain!?
http://customrcupgrades.com/product/arrma-limitless-infraction-felony-front-and-rear-chassis-braces/

 

[InTheZone]

I am pretty sure the driveshaft manufacturer said that the original braces would need to be shaved down a little, I am guessing aftermarket is the same. I would try to drill new holes in the chassis to mount the braces in. I might be wrong, but I don't think on-road need aluminum braces. If you crash at high speed, it won't matter. If you crash at low speed, the plastic braces will still work. Maybe a tower to tower brace would work better for you.

some of the aftermarket braces have pre-shaved areas, I'm just wanting to know if anyone has used these.

 

[Cereal_killer]

Get rid of the D-cups while you’re at it. Since it will be a part…. There junk.

 

[Paulcandb]

I have hot racing chassis braces in my limitless and have the scorched ti shafts. I can't remember the diameter of the shafts but they cleared without any mods.

 

[Dan B.]

Don’t drill new holes for whatever chassis brace you use. Just relieve the recess a bit more on the braces as necessary with a file or a rotary tool. No big deal unless you order color anodized braces. Then you can see raw silver aluminum, but the center driveshafts won’t be what’s eating it up.

 

[InTheZone]

I have hot racing chassis braces in my limitless and have the scorched ti shafts. I can't remember the diameter of the shafts but they cleared without any mods.

Thanks. I ended up ordering the TRC shafts, I believe they're the same diameter as scorched. I was a click away from ordering scorch, but was trying to find any negatives for either brand and I saw something concerning. Someone had posted a video on youtube or facebook, can't remember, and it was showing his scorched shafts, one of them wasn't balanced. He was rolling it on a sheet of lexan and you could see the center of the shaft wobble/bounce. Maybe it was just his order that was bad, but that was a bit concerning. I'd imagine anyone selling titanium shafts would have QC for proper balancing as well.

I'll look in into the hot racing braces, they do look nice.

 

[SrC]

Don’t drill new holes for whatever chassis brace you use. Just relieve the recess a bit more on the braces as necessary with a file or a rotary tool. No big deal unless you order color anodized braces. Then you can see raw silver aluminum, but the center driveshafts won’t be what’s eating it up.

+1
I agree.
Most upgrade braces were notched out to work with stock diameter rear driveshafts.
Best to dremel them for wider Upgrade driveshafts. Don't drill the chassis to move the Brace over. Absolutely wrong to do. The top rear of the brace is already aligned where it needs to be at the tower.
I use a Dremel Drum sander disc also. The Best way with some careful Patience. Use a sharpie marker while all is assembled to find where you need the clearance. It is all trial fitting to get it right. Shaft Oscillation can still occur with many Upgrade driveshafts and can still rub the Rear brace. Hard to control this sometimes. Been there with different brand Upgrade driveshafts. Wobbly drive shaft cups can also cause much of the oscillation and rubbing.
Toss the Safe-D rear Input cup altogether. They absolutely suck. Get M2C's.