Typhon Can someone do this experiment on the 3-4s shocks?

[Surchaufeur]

I was wonderings if the 3s and 4s shocks can be saved specilly the 4s shocks i know some people had leaking issues on them but could just a 4$ for a few sets of orings fix the leakage for ever?. The 3s shocks has a 3mm shaft and comes wih rubber seals 3x2mm the fix would be to try 2.8x1.9 would be the closest i think. And the 4s shocks uses 4x2mm for a 4mm shaft. The arrma 6s ones uses 3.8x1.9mm. As you can see the seals of the 3s and 4s shocks have the same diameter than the shaft and i think thats why they leak. So im asking if someone can do this experiment and just switch the o rings for silicones ones and see if they hold up. For anyone trying thank you

 

[Camaroboy383]

You would want 2.6 x 2.. for the 3mm shafts...

 

[slick2500]

You would want 2.6 x 2.. for the 3mm shafts...

I was just going to say I think your little trick should work for the 4s just like they did with the 3s. Just remove the spacer and add more orings.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I was just going to say I think your little trick should work for the 4s just like they did with the 3s. Just remove the spacer and add more orings.

Heh yeah but you will need 2 times more orings to buy if they work with 2 remplacememt orings then it means the problem was the stock o rings

 

[Camaroboy383]

Heh yeah but you will need 2 times more orings to buy if they work with 2 remplacememt orings then it means the problem was the stock o rings

Well there is no doubt the stock orings are awful.. hard and typically ripped right from assembly..

 

[Surchaufeur]

Well there is no doubt the stock orings are awful.. hard and typically ripped right from assembly..

Thats how my wltoys 144001 shock o rings were

 

[RSM801]

My 4s shocks have not leaked yet.
The 3s shocks on the used granite I got were all leaking but 1.
When I dismantled them, that little plastic round plate that clips on and off the cartridge with the orings in them, well, all of those clips were not on tight, and none of them tighten down enough to form a seal on that cartridge.
Im not sure if the previous owner was rough on them, or if thats just a design flaw in these where those plates will not ever fully clip in and form a seal.

 

[Kylerc]

I think it’s a design flaw like RSM801 said. I really like my 3s shocks after I replaced the o rings they are easy to rebuild and a pretty strong after that I super glued the o ring retainer down with thick glue so it doesn’t flow down onto the shaft. Lasting just fine since last year.

 

[Camaroboy383]

4s shocks are prone for leakage as well.. I opened a 4s outcast yesterday that has 2 leaking shocks inside the box...

It is a design issue.. there needs to be a land in the body to compress the cap onto the orings.. they relied on the clipping cap.. which would have worked if the plastic spacer between the orings was a touch longer and they used better orings..

The majority of shocks that leak out of the box is due to the assembly process, the shafts have a nasty burr on them where the land is machined for the piston that rips the orings while being assembled... between that and the hard crappy orings is destined for failure ..

Just a better set of orings can be enough to quit the leaking.. but a better set and a properly compressed cartridge is key...

 

[RSM801]

yeah, that cartridge is the culprit for sure on mine.
That lid/plate retainer thing on the cartridge, I cant get mine to seat and seal all the way on 3 of the 4 shocks on my 3s vehicle.
so in my case, replacing orings will not solve the leaks since no matter what I try, that retainer will not snap in place.
Super glue would work too like KyleRC said, but then you need to hope your orings hold up cause you arent getting back inside that cartridge. Superglue isnt blue loctite. lol

 

[Yonic]

I'm the only one thinking the issue is not the cartridge/shaft o-rings?

All the leaks i see are from the body o-ring, there's a tunnel going through the threads (that do the auto-bleeding), so the seal is just on that last part before the o-ring.

Also on the hot racing shock bodies, which not leak what so ever, the cartridge cap is completely loose and not attached in any way.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I think it’s a design flaw like RSM801 said. I really like my 3s shocks after I replaced the o rings they are easy to rebuild and a pretty strong after that I super glued the o ring retainer down with thick glue so it doesn’t flow down onto the shaft. Lasting just fine since last year.

You superglued what?

yeah, that cartridge is the culprit for sure on mine.
That lid/plate retainer thing on the cartridge, I cant get mine to seat and seal all the way on 3 of the 4 shocks on my 3s vehicle.
so in my case, replacing orings will not solve the leaks since no matter what I try, that retainer will not snap in place.
Super glue would work too like KyleRC said, but then you need to hope your orings hold up cause you arent getting back inside that cartridge. Superglue isnt blue loctite. lol

How you cant get the cap back on if you took it out it doesn't make sense

 

[RSM801]

I didn't glue anything, a poster above said they did.
The cap i speak of is the cap you have to remove to access the orings and spacer.

I do not know why mine leak, i am assuming that cap since none of them seal down all the way no matter what.
There is a small gap on all of them, so that large oring there isnt doing much without the cap sealing.
That is where the leaks were on my own 3s granite

The hot racing shocks, that bottom which has no cap does not need a cap the same as the arrma one, its just your typical oring assembly which pushes down and seals the bottom retaining piece. That bottom white part below the orings presses down into the shock bottom, and the orings compress and create the seal the shocks need.
The arrma cartridge cap on my shocks don't close and therefore no seal is made and the leak occurs

 

[Camaroboy383]

I'm the only one thinking the issue is not the cartridge/shaft o-rings?

All the leaks i see are from the body o-ring, there's a tunnel going through the threads (that do the auto-bleeding), so the seal is just on that last part before the o-ring.

Also on the hot racing shock bodies, which not leak what so ever, the cartridge cap is completely loose and not attached in any way.

There is a land machined in the bodies of the hr shocks, when you tighten the cartridge it compresses the cartridge cap and puts pressure on the orings...

The only time I've seen the plastic bodies leak at the outer cartridge oring is when they are not lubricated and screwed in or over filled screwed in and compressed blowing the oring out the side..

 

[Yonic]

There is a land machined in the bodies of the hr shocks, when you tighten the cartridge it compresses the cartridge cap and puts pressure on the orings...

I'm pretty sure i don't have that land and they are the same diameter as the pistons, but i need to try a different oil so i'll check again once opened.

 

[Camaroboy383]

I'm pretty sure i don't have that land and they are the same diameter as the pistons, but i need to try a different oil so i'll check again once opened.

Its there... at the end of the threads.. if it wasnt the shocks would leak severely, the cartridge cap would walk up and down in the body pulling the orings out of the bore and rendering them usless.. the shock shaft would then wobble around as the orings and spacers is what keeps the shaft in a vertically straight line... merry christmas ?

 

[Yonic]

Its there... at the end of the threads.. if it wasnt the shocks would leak severely, the cartridge cap would walk up and down in the body pulling the orings out of the bore and rendering them usless.. the shock shaft would then wobble around as the orings and spacers is what keeps the shaft in a vertically straight line... merry christmas ?

I see what you're saying, i just imagined that every time the shock fully extends it pushes everything back down and that was enough.
I'll dissasmble the shocks today and see again if i remember correctly (that the cap is the exact same diameter as the piston)

@Camaroboy383 you're right. I changed the oils today (down from 40wt to 32.5wt) and there is a slight size difference between the piston and the cap, enough to catch to the land.