Can someone explain what these motor numbers mean?

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DoNoHarm

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Arrma RC's
  1. Senton 6s
I like my hobbystar motors and am buying a 4092 as an upgrade because 4074 cans just aren’t big enough for an e revo, especially one with a mamba monster ;).

What does the numbers after the measurements mean? (For example, one says 3Y and one says 5D and stuff like that)
30416

See what I mean? And what’s the benefits/differences? The 4092’s also have differences but the 4076’s have the most variation so it made me curious.
 
I mean I know one is wye and one is delta after doing a google search, but still, what the hell is it all about. Why are some wye and some delta, what are the numbers in front of the letter, and why is one better than the other, or why are they both useful in different situations...etc.
 
The number refers to the number of winds per stator and the Y or D is the configuration. Have a look at the attachment.
the greater the number of winds, the lower the KV, assuming you're comparing motors of the same configuration (2Y vs 3Y). However, if 2 motors have the same no of winds, but different configuration (3Y vs 3D), D has lower torque but higher KV.

In summary, number of winds translate to KV, more winds, less KV and vice versa
Between Y and D, D has less torque but more KV, while Y has more torque and less KV
 

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Not always true. A TP 4050 is actually 40x82 and a castle 1515 is 40x75. But yeah, most manufacturers follow the DDxLL convention
Castle and TP (and Tekin, and inrunners) show size as (diameter of Stator)(length of rotor), instead of (diameter of can)(length of can). Makes more sense, really.

Castle size also looks different because they are using tenths-of-inch instead of mm. So 1515 is 1.5"x1.5"
 
Castle and TP (and Tekin, and inrunners) show size as (diameter of Stator)(length of rotor), instead of (diameter of can)(length of can). Makes more sense, really.

Castle size also looks different because they are using tenths-of-inch instead of mm. So 1515 is 1.5"x1.5"

Well now I know. And yes, that is more sensible because it's the size of the stator/rotor that counts
 
The number refers to the number of winds per stator and the Y or D is the configuration. Have a look at the attachment.
the greater the number of winds, the lower the KV, assuming you're comparing motors of the same configuration (2Y vs 3Y). However, if 2 motors have the same no of winds, but different configuration (3Y vs 3D), D has lower torque but higher KV.

In summary, number of winds translate to KV, more winds, less KV and vice versa
Between Y and D, D has less torque but more KV, while Y has more torque and less KV
Ah, so if I’m understanding, D means less torque and Y means more torque? So higher KV motors are more likely to be D and lower are more likely to be Y?
 
Getting pretty deep in here on a Sunday, now let’s talk about how much timing and boost is optimal based on the windings 😂
 
This is a four year old thread… but very educational and is answering some questions I’ve been pondering for awhile. I’d love to see more discussion on it? @Diem Turner @SrC etc…
 
Timing selection is relative to the operational load placed on the motor. It's always about the gearing/final drive ratio and weight of the rig in hand. Mechanical or Electronic Timing is just a tool for tweaking the RPM output of a motor. At some point, timing peaks out when maximum torque has been achieved. Temps will obviously be higher at this point. Sometimes way too high. Need to back off the timing. With no appreciable gain in performance. Never start high with timing. Start at zero and work your way up a few degress at a time. Or you will overshoot the proper Timing. Losing performance and just cooking the motor. I prefer to dial in my electrics/ESC with zero timing and work with my gearing. Increasing timing at some point gradually, once I have my gearing all good enough. I found that too much timing reduces your torque at some point. There is always a comfortable medium. Exceed that and you fry your motor, Magnets "overheat"/ demagnetize, and the motor is toast.
 
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Timing selection is relative to the operational load placed on the motor. It's always about the gearing/final drive ratio and weight of the rig in hand. Mechanical or Electronic Timing is just a tool for tweaking the RPM output of a motor. At some point, timing peaks out when maximum torque has been achieved. Temps will obviously be higher at this point. Sometimes way to high. Need to back off the timing. With no appreciable gain in performance. Never start high with timing. Start at zero and work your way up a few degress at a time. Or you will overshoot the proper Timing. Losing performance and just cooking the motor. I prefer to dial in my electrics/ESC with zero timing and work with my gearing. Increasing timing at some point gradually, once I have my gearing all good enough. I found that too much timing reduces your torque at some point. There is always a comfortable medium. Exceed that and you fry your motor, Magnets "overheat"/ demagnetize, and the motor is toast.
What is a stator? What do they mean by Y wind and D wind? I know it’s how the wire is wrapped but I still don’t quite get it. Could you break down the way a motor is put together please? I know I could google it but you seem to word things in a way I understand.
 
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