Kraton Can't get screws out of aluminum

SniperXx · Dec 20, 2016

I can't get the screws out of any of the aluminum(motor mount) on the Kraton. Why are they torqued so tight from factory? I've twisted a allen wrench and stripped screws. Any ideas how to get them out. Going to have to pull the dremel out I guess.

Rich Duperbash · Dec 20, 2016

SniperXx said:
I can't get the screws out of any of the aluminum(motor mount) on the Kraton. Why are they torqued so tight from factory? I've twisted a allen wrench and stripped screws. Any ideas how to get them out. Going to have to pull the dremel out I guess.

Just had same nightmare with new Kraton. You need hot soldering iron to weaken thread locker, if you have a Torx bit, hammer one into the stripped screw and attempt to torque out slowly with socket wrench using 1/4 attachment to Torx. Has to be very hot to weaken locker.

SniperXx · Dec 21, 2016

Rich Duperbash said:
Just had same nightmare with new Kraton. You need hot soldering iron to weaken thread locker, if you have a Torx bit, hammer one into the stripped screw and attempt to torque out slowly with socket wrench using 1/4 attachment to Torx. Has to be very hot to weaken locker.

So they have thread lock on them? If so that explains why they are so tight. I'll pull the iron out soon and see if I can get them broken free. Didn't think of that. Whats the best way to replace the stripped screws? There a part number or something for the motor mount screw? Thanks

Rich Duperbash · Dec 21, 2016

SniperXx said:
So they have thread lock on them? If so that explains why they are so tight. I'll pull the iron out soon and see if I can get them broken free. Didn't think of that. Whats the best way to replace the stripped screws? There a part number or something for the motor mount screw? Thanks

Dude.... This is the Arrma hang up, they over thread lock motor mount screws and pinion. If you bought at LHS, have them help you. If bought online see YouTube for ideas, this is my 4th Arrma, great rigs, but assemblers are overthread-locking. Heat and lots of it is a must. All screws into metal should expect locker on it. Don't strip further if not totally rounded already. I have to pass out, don't bust out the drill or Dremel, wait for a better solution. I drilled through one as a last resort, total PITA, effectively ruined a brand new motor mount. I'll check with you tomorrow.

SniperXx · Dec 21, 2016

I was just going to cut into the screw enough to fit a flat head screw driver. But I'll try the iron out. I got a decent one. Thanks

JvG · Dec 21, 2016

Hi,

I had the same problem. Arrma uses a lot of red loctite which is almost superglue. I don't understand why they are not using the blue one, that is perfect for rc's.
The only way to unlock screws with red loctite is a lot of heat. Use a torch if you have one!

Vanning · Dec 21, 2016

If you stripped out the heads already and the iron won't work.....just drill the top of the heads completly off. This way you won't damage or cut into the chassis. Then just remove the motor mount. (put it in a vice) Once that is out...get a small drill and drill right down into the screws to hollow them out. (use fresh sharp drills) Once the screw wall is pretty thin...you can reverse a slightly larger drill bit on top of it and it should back right out. I replaced those motor mount screws with stainless Philips heads. No thread locker. They stay in there fine.

JvG said:
Hi,

I had the same problem. Arrma uses a lot of red loctite which is almost superglue. I don't understand why they are not using the blue one, that is perfect for rc's.
The only way to unlock screws with red loctite is a lot of heat. Use a torch if you have one!

The blue can be a problem also...it sometimes causes the steel screw to react with the aluminum and just binds the threads up. Then you go to remove it with a worn out Allen wrench on a low quality screw and it's all over.

JvG · Dec 21, 2016

Vanning said:
If you stripped out the heads already and the iron won't work.....just drill the top of the heads completly off. This way you won't damage or cut into the chassis. Then just remove the motor mount. (put it in a vice) Once that is out...get a small drill and drill right down into the screws to hollow them out. (use fresh sharp drills) Once the screw wall is pretty thin...you can reverse a slightly larger drill bit on top of it and it should back right out. I replaced those motor mount screws with stainless Philips heads. No thread locker. They stay in there fine.

The blue can be a problem also...it sometimes causes the steel screw to react with the aluminum and just binds the threads up. Then you go to remove it with a worn out Allen wrench on a low quality screw and it's all over.

Ah ok, fortunately i never had that problem (yet )

Patrick · Dec 21, 2016

I had all kinds of fun getting off the stock 12t pinion. Ended up cutting it off, or grinding it off actually. Soldering iron didn't work for me, heat gun and a good allen seems to work best. I think I've been through everything except the steering now.

Jerry-rigged · Dec 21, 2016

If the hex screw has started to round, use a Torqs bit - find one that fits snug - hammer it in if it is close. Heat + Torqs will get out most "stripped" hex screws.

Vanning · Dec 21, 2016

Extractor and left hand drill bit set. Great tools for RC tool box.

CL-Audio · Dec 22, 2016

This topic is my least favorite thing about my Kraton. I have wasted hours upon hours fighting the removal of metal on metal parts in the process of simply tearing down the vehicle to replace bearings and diff maintenance. I don't mind the wrenching, its part of the hobby, but I do not enjoy these obstacles and the damage, time, cost for parts, and the wait to get them. Pretty frustrating to say the least.

Vanning · Dec 22, 2016

I was doing fine until my motor mount screws locked up with blue loctite. I mostly think it's poor hardware and my Allen wrench was too worn out also.

Now I have stainless philips heads in there. Paired with a good Snap-on screw driver. I hate Allen heads and Torx heads. I also hate philips. But they are needed with some applications. A good square drive always seems to work well, but there is nothing out there that is used for rc.

After purchasing a quality set of rc Allen tools, things have been much better. Great investment.

gregmbrandt · Dec 22, 2016

heat ...always use heat

CL-Audio · Dec 23, 2016

Heat worked for some, but not all. I had to hammer out the input gear from the input shaft cup no matter how long I laid my solder iron on it, front and rear.

Rich Duperbash · Dec 23, 2016

I've used my my mini hammer several times too. Whatever gets the job done I guess.

Timritchieblue · Dec 24, 2016

I keep a small propane torch readily available, works good for removing small 3/4mm bullets from wires also.

Rich Duperbash · Dec 24, 2016

Timritchieblue said:
I keep a small propane torch readily available, works good for removing small 3/4mm bullets from wires also.

Almost bought one after last motor mount nightmare, which brand do you use and how long is torch applied? I was worried I'd melt surrounding plastics, diff case...etc.

Timritchieblue · Dec 25, 2016

Rich Duperbash said:
Almost bought one after last motor mount nightmare, which brand do you use and how long is torch applied? I was worried I'd melt surrounding plastics, diff case...etc.

It's the standard blue tank, hand held quick lite. I ussally just turn it all the way down.

Rich Duperbash · Dec 25, 2016

Timritchieblue said:
It's the standard blue tank, hand held quick lite. I ussally just turn it all the way down.

Thanks, I'm getting one next trip to HD.

Kraton Can't get screws out of aluminum

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