Kraton Can't get screws out of aluminum

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I was doing fine until my motor mount screws locked up with blue loctite. I mostly think it's poor hardware and my Allen wrench was too worn out also.

Now I have stainless philips heads in there. Paired with a good Snap-on screw driver. I hate Allen heads and Torx heads. I also hate philips. But they are needed with some applications. A good square drive always seems to work well, but there is nothing out there that is used for rc.

After purchasing a quality set of rc Allen tools, things have been much better. Great investment.

I occasionally have the problem of stripping out the screw due to having a "low quality". Allen set.
1. How do I determine what is a good "high quality" Allen tool?
2. Can you name a brand that I can purchase?
3. Where can I get it? (Reasonable price please)

Thanks
 
Search E-bay for a set made for RC. Look to see if they have special coating on them to make them harder. I can wear out a set from sears pretty fast.

The ones I have now have that gold coating on them that you see on good rc shock shafts. They are sold advertised as rc tools.
 
Thanks
Search E-bay for a set made for RC. Look to see if they have special coating on them to make them harder. I can wear out a set from sears pretty fast.

The ones I have now have that gold coating on them that you see on good rc shock shafts. They are sold advertised as rc tools.

Thanks. I'll look around for them.
 
I occasionally have the problem of stripping out the screw due to having a "low quality". Allen set.
1. How do I determine what is a good "high quality" Allen tool?
2. Can you name a brand that I can purchase?
3. Where can I get it? (Reasonable price please)

Thanks
Look no further than these. Pretty much the go to industry standard. Consider also getting the 3.0mm for the motor screws, etc.
https://smile.amazon.com/Moores-Ide...1482985069&sr=8-1&keywords=mip+hex+wrench+set
 
I occasionally have the problem of stripping out the screw due to having a "low quality". Allen set.
1. How do I determine what is a good "high quality" Allen tool?
2. Can you name a brand that I can purchase?
3. Where can I get it? (Reasonable price please)

Thanks

I find that having an Allen Key set, as well as an Allen Driver set is the best solution - it's difficult to get much torque with a driver, and that's where an L key comes in as the length allows you to apply more pressure without tearing the skin of your fingers if you were using a driver instead haha.

On a budget, I would recommend a set of Bondhus allen keys - made in the USA, lifetime warranty, and high quality so you won't have to worry about stripping heads unless you are applying wayyyyy too much pressure. They are also quite long so can get into tight spaces, and have a ball head on the other end which can be very useful - for example, I use it to adjust the droop set screws which are a pig to get to with a normal Allen key, but with the ball head and the length of the key I can squeeze through and turn the screw at up to a 30 degree angle. Link below:

https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-20199-Balldriver-L-Wrench-1-5-10mm/dp/B00012Y38W

For drivers, I use Eds which are good, but really 90% of the time I just use the Bondhus ones. If you really want drivers, Hudy, Eds, Turnigy, Arrowmax etc are the ones to go for.
 
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I hear those MIP's are very good.

Im not using Allen keys as much lately. I now only use them to add slightly more torque to maybe a motor screw. Most everything is a driver now. And not too much torque. Just snug and done.
 
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I am hopeful for any new Kraton owners that Arrma is addressing these issues. I just tore down my entire truck. The aluminum motor mount did have lock tite on it but all 3 screws came out with just a touch of extra elbow grease. What I would consider perfect for a motor mount application. My wheels came off with minimal brain damage as well. I have wrestled with stuck screws before and know how absolutely frustrating it can be. Even more so when you start tearing up screws, parts etc.

I feel very fortunate at this point. I had the heat gun, soldering iron and torch at the ready and did not need any of it. To say I was relived would be an understatement. I use a small electric drill driver for my tear downs on all the screws into plastic parts. I also use it after I get the first twist or two out of the way on metal to metal. I love the fact that this truck is laid out the same as an 1/8 scale buggy/truggy
 
I am hopeful for any new Kraton owners that Arrma is addressing these issues. I just tore down my entire truck. The aluminum motor mount did have lock tite on it but all 3 screws came out with just a touch of extra elbow grease. What I would consider perfect for a motor mount application. My wheels came off with minimal brain damage as well. I have wrestled with stuck screws before and know how absolutely frustrating it can be. Even more so when you start tearing up screws, parts etc.

I feel very fortunate at this point. I had the heat gun, soldering iron and torch at the ready and did not need any of it. To say I was relived would be an understatement. I use a small electric drill driver for my tear downs on all the screws into plastic parts. I also use it after I get the first twist or two out of the way on metal to metal. I love the fact that this truck is laid out the same as an 1/8 scale buggy/truggy
Hope you're right and that Arrma assembly team has chilled out on red locker overkill, such a PITA to deal with. Glad your tear down went so smoothly.
 
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I'm almost always 100% with hardware. However... the Kraton got me for the first time in years. I've had this truck apart 3-4 times.... then I got my most recent motor and a 5 min swap turned into an hour plus. I had to get a fresh box of left handed drills. Then added some decent drivers to the mix.
 
View attachment 4877.

I'm almost always 100% with hardware. However... the Kraton got me for the first time in years. I've had this truck apart 3-4 times.... then I got my most recent motor and a 5 min swap turned into an hour plus. I had to get a fresh box of left handed drills. Then added some decent drivers to the mix.
That's a bummer. Good quality drivers help out a ton. I never gave it much thought until I actually started using them. Having said that when red thread lock is in play all bets are off. Nothing worse then something simple turning into a huge event because of stuck hardware. I start having flash backs of working on all the rust bucket $150.00 Camaro, Firebird etc. piece of crap 1:1 cars I owned as a kid. My blood pressure goes up about 40 points, followed by a stream of obscenities, topped off by an enormous vain popping out of the middle of my forehead. This used to be followed up with an alternator bouncing off of the garage wall. Fortuntately I have mellowed with age and stopped launching parts and tools at the wall.
 
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That's a bummer. Good quality drivers help out a ton. I never gave it much thought until I actually started using them. Having said that when red thread lock is in play all bets are off. Nothing worse then something simple turning into a huge event because of stuck hardware. I start having flash backs of working on all the rust bucket $150.00 Camaro, Firebird etc. piece of crap 1:1 cars I owned as a kid. My blood pressure goes up about 40 points, followed by a stream of obscenities, topped off by an enormous vain popping out of the middle of my forehead. This used to be followed up with an alternator bouncing off of the garage wall. Fortuntately I have mellowed with age and stopped launching parts and tools at the wall.
LOL. This is hilarious. Sounds like how I felt tearing down my Kraton.
 
Looks like I've been one of the fortunate ones. I did however use a hair dryer to heat everything for around 5 minutes.

All came out nicely.
 

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