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Sorry I am a bit late to the party here but wanted to chime in since I have built 4 cap packs and done a fair amount of data logging of ripple voltage. (also have an Electrical Engineering degree) I suspect sadlerbw above might also.
To answer some questions, I personally believe you will not "feel" any difference.
These capacitor packs cannot power more than the servo on their own without the battery. Hitting the throttle would drain the caps almost instantly. (With the exception of some monsters over 20,000uF)
All of our ESCs come with capacitors built in already and are there to smooth out the ripples in the voltage supply. The problem comes up more so related to large motors and or aggressive gearing, which create larger amperage loads on the system.
The cap-packs purpose is to smooth out the oscillations in power, the ultimate goal is to provide a smoother power level. Having an oscillating dc power supply "stresses" the ESC and will greatly shorten its life. It could also blow the caps that are pre-installed on the ESC. That is the whole point, save the ESC from power supply stress.
During a speed run with an 8s system I would often see data logs of voltage drops of nearly 1v per cell. My 8s system (4.2v * 8 = 33.6 volts turned into nearly 25.6 volts. ) Prior to installing the cap packs data logs showed oscillations in the power supply of up to 20%
I have always built my Cap-Packs with low ESR caps from the Panasonic FM line. I have used 35v caps from 1000uF up to 2200uF wired in parallel depending on the car and room available. I have found that around 6000uF total is sufficient in most cases. On larger RC's where you have more free space, fit in as many as you can within reason. It is also noted that you should wire them as close to the ESC as possible. I like to install them with an battery connector to make it easy to remove during repairs on the RC. I also use clear shrink wrap because it is easy to inspect the cap tops for swelling which is the #1 sign of a cap on its way out. Like batteries caps have a certain number of cycles for their life span and heat tolerance, so considerations for mounting location should be made.
Ideally you may want to test the capacitor pack with your multi-meter initially and then test it every 6 months to make sure it is still healthy.
-Liberty
To answer some questions, I personally believe you will not "feel" any difference.
These capacitor packs cannot power more than the servo on their own without the battery. Hitting the throttle would drain the caps almost instantly. (With the exception of some monsters over 20,000uF)
All of our ESCs come with capacitors built in already and are there to smooth out the ripples in the voltage supply. The problem comes up more so related to large motors and or aggressive gearing, which create larger amperage loads on the system.
The cap-packs purpose is to smooth out the oscillations in power, the ultimate goal is to provide a smoother power level. Having an oscillating dc power supply "stresses" the ESC and will greatly shorten its life. It could also blow the caps that are pre-installed on the ESC. That is the whole point, save the ESC from power supply stress.
During a speed run with an 8s system I would often see data logs of voltage drops of nearly 1v per cell. My 8s system (4.2v * 8 = 33.6 volts turned into nearly 25.6 volts. ) Prior to installing the cap packs data logs showed oscillations in the power supply of up to 20%
I have always built my Cap-Packs with low ESR caps from the Panasonic FM line. I have used 35v caps from 1000uF up to 2200uF wired in parallel depending on the car and room available. I have found that around 6000uF total is sufficient in most cases. On larger RC's where you have more free space, fit in as many as you can within reason. It is also noted that you should wire them as close to the ESC as possible. I like to install them with an battery connector to make it easy to remove during repairs on the RC. I also use clear shrink wrap because it is easy to inspect the cap tops for swelling which is the #1 sign of a cap on its way out. Like batteries caps have a certain number of cycles for their life span and heat tolerance, so considerations for mounting location should be made.
Ideally you may want to test the capacitor pack with your multi-meter initially and then test it every 6 months to make sure it is still healthy.
-Liberty