Castle Creation "Cryo drive" ESC RPM matching.

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Please let us know with the replacement one if the problem is fixed.

I too am seeing this behavior with an MMX8s sensored to a 1717 1650kv.

All things are smooth and normal except:

If I apply aggressive burst power off the line and sense an unwanted wheelie, I get off the throttle.

Front end comes down and apply less power to continue on and immediate brake lock-up, like an instant crawler reverse scenario. Awful slamming crunch front tire dig!

Then normal forwards operations thereafter!

Fault is repeatable.

I noticed a workout if you patiently “wait” an extra second before immediately getting back on the power, no hiccup. But a user shouldn’t have to do this!

I suspect something with the programming logic like others have theorized.

Current settings that I’ll will check to troubleshoot:

punch control at 60%
Aux mapping to Drag Mode
Brake 100%
Brake ramp - instant/disabled

Even if my TX trigger joggled & overshot the deadzone, the expected brakes should be a touch not full on immediate lock up!!
Well I have a new update, I tested it on the bench, it looked worse, but once I drove it, it seemed great for the most part. Decided to take it to a park and really open it up. Was running great! Then it stopped after 5 minutes and caught on fire. Had to rush over, uplug my batts, motor wires, everything I could from the ESC. Motor temps were still cold, so I have no idea why this happened... ESC was manufactured last month by the way, this isn't a first run ESC.

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Wow and ouch! That’s very disheartening to see now esp given a newer replacement!!

Is the more burnt side look primarily to the motor wires? If so, wonder if something fell in between & direct shorted there FOD/debris/solder reflow? Or your motor internal windings shorted?

Since resetting my unit and only doing minimal setting changes from last, that throttle hiccup hasn’t come back since *knocks on wood*
 
Wow and ouch! That’s very disheartening to see now esp given a newer replacement!!

Is the more burnt side look primarily to the motor wires? If so, wonder if something fell in between & direct shorted there FOD/debris/solder reflow? Or your motor internal windings shorted?

Since resetting my unit and only doing minimal setting changes from last, that throttle hiccup hasn’t come back since *knocks on wood*
Both sides were burned to an absolute crisp, so I couldn't really tell you which side is worse. The motor seemed fine when I went to check the temps, and it was still rolling smoothly. So again, I'm uncertain what happened. All I know is I'm royally pissed off. I ran the motor with a max 5 for a couple of weeks with no issues, so I doubt it was the motors fault.
 
Curious on your post that you mentioned on your initial bench test “it looked worse”

What was worse, the way the esc behaved?

And this was an esc on the latest firmware reset to default?

I think this has got to be an internal mfg defect bc I can’t see how a user can provoke a fire at the esc on his own and the newer amp hog 1721 motor supposedly trips the internal amp safety ~600a as another safety guard (despite Castle making it seem that XLX2 had no limits)
 
Curious on your post that you mentioned on your initial bench test “it looked worse”

What was worse, the way the esc behaved?

And this was an esc on the latest firmware reset to default?

I think this has got to be an internal mfg defect bc I can’t see how a user can provoke a fire at the esc on his own and the newer amp hog 1721 motor supposedly trips the internal amp safety ~600a as another safety guard (despite Castle making it seem that XLX2 had no limits)
I'll put the link for the video I posted


My setup wouldn't even get close to 600 amps, the most I saw it pull was 300ish amps on my setup with my first XLX2. I just can't trust castle anymore after this, I might ask for a substitute combo, mmx8s with the 800kv. I'm not trying another XLX2 after this, I don't want to sacrifice my whole rig again.
 
Curious on your post that you mentioned on your initial bench test “it looked worse”

What was worse, the way the esc behaved?

And this was an esc on the latest firmware reset to default?

I think this has got to be an internal mfg defect bc I can’t see how a user can provoke a fire at the esc on his own and the newer amp hog 1721 motor supposedly trips the internal amp safety ~600a as another safety guard (despite Castle making it seem that XLX2 had no limits)
I made sure it was on the latest firmware as well. All settings were default for initial testing, but after driving it, it seemed fine, so I inputted my own settings. All I changed was my BEC up to 7.5 volts, brakes up to 65% and put my lvc to 3.4v.
 
Long-distance diagnosis is always a crap shoot, but your motor wasn't the issue. This shorted out right beneath the ESC terminals, or your wires would look different. None of your settings would have impacted any of this.
 
Long-distance diagnosis is always a crap shoot, but your motor wasn't the issue. This shorted out right beneath the ESC terminals, or your wires would look different. None of your settings would have impacted any of this.
I just don't get it, it's so... I just feel so lost 😅, I've had to get a replacement, and I thought I was in the clear and then this happens... C'mon castle!! Ffs, I thought they had this stuff dealt with... I just wanna drive my outcast LOL. I'm hoping my SMC batts aren't dead, I checked them with a cell checker and it came back good. The puffing they experience basically completely went away after they cooled down. I unplugged them fairly quickly, so I'm pretty sure they're alright.
 
Is your drag brake turned up/on? Maybe turn that off if it’s on
He stated Drag brake was disabled.(y)

@JayP. , That's a defect somewhere. What I see in the video at least. Have you considered a F/W downgrade. Or even a reflash. Of the current one.
Could be a F/W hiccup.:unsure: Aside from doing this, it has to go back to CC. Ask for a new one. What else??
You got a Gnome in there.:LOL:

Data logs should reveal something.
 
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That initial thread I opened of the "known issue" with the xlx2 WAS what would be considered an issue, and the first tech guy I talked to made it clear to me that it was, but a "fix" wouldn't be issued for a while. When I was told it was rpm matching, they didn't elaborate on it enough, so I assumed all their escs did it, and that the xlx2 was doing it incorrectly causing it to "apply" the brakes. I just got off the phone, they processed my claim, and told me everything came back perfectly, and that the "issue" I'm having is the rpm matching doing what it's supposed to do. Why would they even implement this if it's stupidly annoying to run any vehicle with? I wasn't really told the benefits of why they use this, I'm assuming it's for efficiency? But I don't see how efficient it could be to intermittently apply the brakes to match the rpm, especially when it locks up the tires sometimes. When I opened that thread originally, some people said they weren't experiencing this issue, so I'm lead to believe people didn't 100% understand what I meant? With that being said, I don't think I'd want to deal with something like that for everyday driving. Probably just going to have to settle for a max 5, which isn't ideal... It all feels like a huge waste now, absolutely ridiculous... This wouldn't be an issue if they'd allow the user to disable this, but it's most likely more complicated than that, and I won't pretend to understand how that would work. I don't have another cryo drive castle ESC in my hands to try out for myself, so I'm not even sure if what they're saying is 100% true or not. I've never seen that behavior in any videos I've watched on the mmx8s or the xlx2.
@Engineer shared your link with me on my recent post of this same issue. I feel we’re cryo-bros now lol stuck with the same transmission killer. C-support says the same thing but…. Im good at thinking outside the box and I have some ideas… hear me out, im going to look into castle link first and then im going to look into my radiolink transmitter. Because rpm matching happens “suddenly” rather than gradually and won’t wait for the vehicle to slow down on its own, im going to create a smooth “RAMP UP” and a smooth “RAMP DOWN” on my trigger/throttle. When I let off, it’ll do it smooth and swiftly. And when I get “back on” the throttle, it’ll introduce the throttle input quickly but smooth and swift. I only need this feature to work while “still in motion” but not from a dead stop. Between what castlelink has to offer and all my transmitter’s expo’s and curves, I should be able to “beat the system” okay man who’s excited with Me lol?
 
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