Castle Creations BEC 2.0 Issue with Kraton v3

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I searched a lot when I bought mine. Ended up getting the hakko fx888d29by. Lots of good reviews. Got it for about 100 bucks on ebay. It's also available on amazon as well I see.
Damn it.... That harbor freight is 100 watts not a 1000. Yes I saw the Weller and the hakko were basically even on price and reviews. Looks like a coin toss.
And another $100 will be spent I guess.
 
If you have the opposite end, male or female, and plug it in to the one you're soldering, it acts as a heat sink, and no melting, and holds everything in place. I too learned the hard way. The Hako is good, cause you can adjust the heat. But for cheaper to use on big wires, I have one of these Weller's. Heats up very fast, has lights too, and only $20
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40N...oldering+iron&qid=1554398662&s=gateway&sr=8-6
 
If you have the opposite end, male or female, and plug it in to the one you're soldering, it acts as a heat sink, and no melting, and holds everything in place. I too learned the hard way.
Thanks, I was just watching a how to video and that's what they did.
And my brain is shot today that HF solder gun is 100 watts but over 1000 degrees.
That's what I was remembering. So maybe I'll check it out anyways and see how it do for my needs
 
Just got a used Weller wes51 that needed some tlc for free! Works great after a simple fix. So the wires definitely fit through the cap. It's all tight but doable.
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So I have 4 plugs to connect to my receiver and 4 slots in the receiver. 2 from the bec, 1 esc, 1 servo.
What goes where?
 
I have this harness... Is this something I need?
I'm just lost on what goes where and I don't want to short anything out.
Thanks for any help
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I ended up not using the harness. Just put the two bec plugs into the two open slots on the receiver. doesn't matter which one goes where just make sure the polarity is right. Open slots should be "B" for battery and slot 3. Off the bec, one wire has brown, yellow red. Brown is the ground. All ground wires should be to the far edge. Like pictured. I just don't have the esc or servo plugged in in the pic. Also, what reciever are you using? Fyi it's kind of a pain trying to fit all the wires into the receiver box. Just a warning. Lol
 
I ended up not using the harness. Just put the two bec plugs into the two open slots on the receiver. doesn't matter which one goes where just make sure the polarity is right. Open slots should be "B" for battery and slot 3. Off the bec, one wire has brown, yellow red. Brown is the ground. All ground wires should be to the far edge. Like pictured. I just don't have the esc or servo plugged in in the pic. Also, what reciever are you using? Fyi it's kind of a pain trying to fit all the wires into the receiver box. Just a warning. Lol
Thanks for the reply, I have the tactic 326 RECEIVER.
My brother told me the B is for bind and that it doesn't work like an extra channel.
So use that b and the channel 3 which would be the other free slot.
And doesn't matter which go in what slot... OK, I can do that.
Also why didn't you use harness, is it just not needed?
 
I think you could or would use the harness if you only had one slot available and needed two. And I'm pretty sure the slot marked "B" is for battery, not bind. This receiver doesn't use a bind plug that I'm aware of. I didnt get one with either of my arrma vehicles. And since you have the 326 it will handle higher voltage than 6v. I think up to 9.6v.The tactic 325 will not. Also , did you get a castle link to program the bec? From factory I think it's set at 5.5v.
 
I think you could or would use the harness if you only had one slot available and needed two. And I'm pretty sure the slot marked "B" is for battery, not bind. This receiver doesn't use a bind plug that I'm aware of. I didnt get one with either of my arrma vehicles. And since you have the 326 it will handle higher voltage than 6v. I think up to 9.6v.The tactic 325 will not. Also , did you get a castle link to program the bec? From factory I think it's set at 5.5v.
Yes I have the link and set the bec to 7.4 to match the savox. Should I have set it a tad lower?
And yes you are correct it shows battery for "B".
On his new V4 it shows bind.
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I'm surprised not to find this info here or on Google... Which plugs go where when hooking up a savox, bec and tactic receiver. This is how you have it set up?
Thanks for the help
 
I recommend using the adapter since everything is plug and play. The two wire male plug goes into the steering channel of the receiver, the male plug from the BEC goes to the two wire female plug on the adapter and the servo male plug goes to the three wire female plug. The male plug from the ESC goes to the throttle channel of the receiver. Only thing else left to do is connect the + and - power leads of the BEC to the + and - power leads of the ESC that connect to the LiPo batteries.

Best regards,
Brian
 
I recommend using the adapter since everything is plug and play. The two wire male plug goes into the steering channel of the receiver, the male plug from the BEC goes to the two wire female plug on the adapter and the servo male plug goes to the three wire female plug. The male plug from the ESC goes to the throttle channel of the receiver. Only thing else left to do is connect the + and - power leads of the BEC to the + and - power leads of the ESC that connect to the LiPo batteries.

Best regards,
Brian
Isn't the way mentioned above the same but without harness?
It's simply plug and play into receiver without harness.
Is there a benefit to using harness?
The CON I see is extra wiring to keep neat or try to stuff in receiver box
 
Isn't the way mentioned above the same but without harness?
It's simply plug and play into receiver without harness.
Is there a benefit to using harness?
The CON I see is extra wiring to keep neat or try to stuff in receiver box
I use the harnesses in most of my vehicles. The thing I like about it is that you don't need to cut any wires, which helps out if warranty is needed. But yes, stuffing the harness into the receiver box is a little tricky, but once it's done, it's done and I rarely ever need to deal with it again.
 
I use the harnesses in most of my vehicles. The thing I like about it is that you don't need to cut any wires, which helps out if warranty is needed. But yes, stuffing the harness into the receiver box is a little tricky, but once it's done, it's done and I rarely ever need to deal with it again.
If you read post #27
There are no wires that need to be cut... Or am I missing something?
Seems just like plug and play without the harness
 
If you read post #27
There are no wires that need to be cut... Or am I missing something?
Seems just like plug and play without the harness
As far as I know you need to cut one of the wires on the esc plug to run an external bec. I could be wrong but that's my understanding of it.

Edit: if you look at post #9 he did cut the wire going to the receiver from his esc.
 
As far as I know you need to cut one of the wires on the esc plug to run an external bec. I could be wrong but that's my understanding of it.
Oh. No you just need to disconnect the (red) power from the ESC plug going into receiver.
Now that I think about it the only difference is the power goes directly to servo using the harness vs not and the power for servo travels through the receiver first.
I might be wrong but that's what I was just thinking the difference was.
I know a lot of the crawlers use this harness so they can run different powered items through receiver like a led bar, etc.
Hey thanks, I think u made me figure out what the difference is
 
Oh. No you just need to disconnect the (red) power from the ESC plug going into receiver.
Now that I think about it the only difference is the power goes directly to servo using the harness vs not and the power for servo travels through the receiver first.
I might be wrong but that's what I was just thinking the difference was.
I know a lot of the crawlers use this harness so they can run different powered items through receiver like a led bar, etc.
Hey thanks, I think u made me figure out what the difference is
So are you guys who are using the harness not disconnecting the power from the ESC?
 
Oh. No you just need to disconnect the (red) power from the ESC plug going into receiver.
Now that I think about it the only difference is the power goes directly to servo using the harness vs not and the power for servo travels through the receiver first.
I might be wrong but that's what I was just thinking the difference was.
I know a lot of the crawlers use this harness so they can run different powered items through receiver like a led bar, etc.
Hey thanks, I think u made me figure out what the difference is
Yes, disconnecting the red wire does accomplish the exact same thing as the harness. But with the harness the esc remains factory. If you clip the red wire and and the esc fails and send it in for warranty, they can always come back and say that clipping that wire caused the failure. Chances are slim but I see it as leaving a door open for them to reject the claim.
 
So are you guys who are using the harness not disconnecting the power from the ESC?
Correct. That is the whole point of the harness is that you do not need to disconnect the power from the esc. The part of the harness that it plugs into only has two wires coming out of it, so the signal stops there since there isn't anywhere for it to go.
 
The servo can draw 3 or more amps and using the wiring harness feeds all the power directly to the servo. The wiring harness also allows you to use any receiver, since it's being powered by the ESC. So the servo can get 7.4V from the external BEC and the receiver can get 6.0V from the ESC.

Without the harness, you do need to disconnect the red wire from the ESC male plug that goes into the receiver. You don't need to cut it, you can just use a small flat blade screwdriver to release the metal connector from the plug.

Either set up will work fine, I just prefer to power the servo directly in the same way the motor is powered directly from the ESC. I don't see the need to have any extra power going to the receiver when it only needs 500 mA or less to operate correctly.

Brian
 
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