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Castle motor temperature suggestions?

Twitchfast

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I will preface this with the fact I'm not that well informed on most motor/esc matters.
I recently bought a 2200kv Castle motor & Mamba Monster 2 ESC combo (link)

I'm not sure what the stock spur the Typhon V4 has, however I am running a 21T pinion and it's getting uncomfortably hot on 4S?
The drivetrain feels as expected, no particularly obvious stiffness.
Could it be that I'm under geared? over geared? I'd love to hear any suggestions since I don't have a clue, nor do I have spare pinions to test with.

Thanks.
 

Mr.Duke

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Sounds like it may be slightly over geared. On 4s you're geared for about 54mph and on 6s, around 82mph.
What's the motor temperature getting up to?
 

Twitchfast

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Sounds like it may be slightly over geared. On 4s you're geared for about 54mph and on 6s, around 82mph.
What's the motor temperature getting up to?
Unfortunately it's not sensored so I don't have temperature readouts, I would ordinarily run 6s however my 5th cell decided to poop the bed and was doctored out of the situation.

I consistently check temperature with my palm, eventually it gets to a point where it's painful for me to touch for longer than ~2 seconds, at which point I stop.

I also feel the car is hitting top speed very quickly, which is why I was wondering if it's undergeared.
 
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Mr.Duke

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It's difficult to diagnose without an infrared thermometer and the exact temperature. You're going to want to pick up a temp gun or pocket thermometer to see what it needs. They're inexpensive and worth every penny. I carry around one of these in my pocket and use it during every pack checking temps on the motor, ESC, center diff, battery and xt90 connectors.
https://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-pocket-thermometer-93983.html
 

Twitchfast

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It's difficult to diagnose without an infrared thermometer and the exact temperature. You're going to want to pick up a temp gun or pocket thermometer to see what it needs. They're inexpensive and worth every penny. I carry around one of these in my pocket and use it during every pack checking temps on the motor, ESC, center diff, battery and xt90 connectors.
https://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-pocket-thermometer-93983.html
I'll get one on order,
From memory I recall the wires getting warm (not hot), the ESC seems well within operating temperature so I doubt that's a concern.

I have noticed the drive shafts either side of the center diff getting noticeably hot, I assumed that was natural though.
I'm running 1M weight in the center diff if that's of any help.

And I edited my last post rather late so I suspect you missed it, I feel the car is hitting top speed quite quickly compared to when I was running the 6S BLX setup, that's why I was curious if it's undergeared.

Thanks again!
 

Peeeenuuutt

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I'll get one on order,
From memory I recall the wires getting warm (not hot), the ESC seems well within operating temperature so I doubt that's a concern.

I have noticed the drive shafts either side of the center diff getting noticeably hot, I assumed that was natural though.
I'm running 1M weight in the center diff if that's of any help.

And I edited my last post rather late so I suspect you missed it, I feel the car is hitting top speed quite quickly compared to when I was running the 6S BLX setup, that's why I was curious if it's undergeared.

Thanks again!
Yeah that esc will run absolutely forever. I’d love to help with your motor but to be honest I don’t have experience with their new fleet. I’ve only used their NEU sensorless (2008-2013/14) fleet of motors. Nowdays I run brands like hobbystar and arrma because castle asks way too much for their motors, and the cheap counterfeit ones on eBay are a hard pass for me. The finger meter really isn’t effective. 2 seconds till pain can really mean anything between 120 degrees and 200. One is basically operating temp, the other is permanent magnetism loss.
 

Twitchfast

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Yeah that esc will run absolutely forever. I’d love to help with your motor but to be honest I don’t have experience with their new fleet. I’ve only used their NEU sensorless (2008-2013/14) fleet of motors. Nowdays I run brands like hobbystar and arrma because castle asks way too much for their motors, and the cheap counterfeit ones on eBay are a hard pass for me. The finger meter really isn’t effective. 2 seconds till pain can really mean anything between 120 degrees and 200. One is basically operating temp, the other is permanent magnetism loss.
No worries, I had read you can lower timings on the ESC to reduce heat, but based on the tooltip I'll inevitably lose power as well.

I find it interesting how much more torque the Castle setup has in comparison to the stock BLX electrics though.
I did order a 1515 motor cooler from modelsport but only god knows when Castle will have them in stock.

A bunch of noob questions lol.
Any suggestions for decent batteries in the UK?
I bought a 6s Turnigy 5000mah 70c battery that initially performed great, but the 5th cell has very quickly been dropping out of balance, nearly an entire volt below the other cells.
My brother ended up removing two of the cells so now it's only 4s and the loss of power is traumatic.
 

Peeeenuuutt

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I was just talking with one of their reps... huge shortage of materials in Asia.
 

leo248

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Unfortunately it's not sensored so I don't have temperature readouts, I would ordinarily run 6s however my 5th cell decided to poop the bed and was doctored out of the situation.

I consistently check temperature with my palm, eventually it gets to a point where it's painful for me to touch for longer than ~2 seconds, at which point I stop.

I also feel the car is hitting top speed very quickly, which is why I was wondering if it's undergeared.
The typhon has a 50t spur like almost all the Arrma 6S cars. With a 21t pinion that's pretty high gearred.

If that is the speed pinion then it is not designed to be run off road and is only for short runs up and down a road to achieve top speed but it does work the motor hard anyway.

With a 2200kv motor it is slighly on the higher side of kv range therefore you should be running a smaller pinion to take advantage of the higher rpm that motor spins at. If it's geared too high it will bog down, run hot and be slower.
No worries, I had read you can lower timings on the ESC to reduce heat, but based on the tooltip I'll inevitably lose power as well.

I find it interesting how much more torque the Castle setup has in comparison to the stock BLX electrics though.
I did order a 1515 motor cooler from modelsport but only god knows when Castle will have them in stock.

A bunch of noob questions lol.
Any suggestions for decent batteries in the UK?
I bought a 6s Turnigy 5000mah 70c battery that initially performed great, but the 5th cell has very quickly been dropping out of balance, nearly an entire volt below the other cells.
My brother ended up removing two of the cells so now it's only 4s and the loss of power is traumatic.
Lower timing will make the motor spin slower but have more torque. So yes it will be slower.

I would recommend a gens ace 6S 4500mah 60C hard case lipo. I have had one for seveeral months now and it performs very well and is a good quality battery.

I also run turnigy graphene 3S 45c packs in series which perform just as well.
 
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