Castle XLX 2 and 1100kv motor issues. Or XLX2 faulty anyone?

[RC-Tango]

I appreciate your brand neutral stance. I do not have Castle products, but I have made rather pointed remarks in the past about brands.

I have conversed with the op of this thread at length several times and he is a great resource for me. I have followed his advice several times, always with success.

However, my attitude gets a bit carried away at times .....

So.....to be fair, like you were, my setup, which is not Castle brand.....could also become a fireball..... Any loose connection or soldering job, a jolt in a certain way, etc, and there goes 100's and 100s of $$$$$$$$$

Up in smoke

It just so happens that the XLX2 seems to be a bit touchy right now. Hopefully they will firmly address this soon.

You shared wisdom about the checks you do before running your rigs. I do, but I need to do better......

This is just a part of the hobby....one we do NOT enjoy, one we want to avoid.....

Good to have you on board, btw

Thank you so much for the warm welcome guys / girls. I was really kind of worried about posting my xlx2 experience because I didn't want you all to think I jumped on to bash a brand. I wanted to be clear that I have been a supporter of Castle and really any other company that makes quality parts and gear. You're 100% correct though, no matter what brand we choose to run we all could experience failures with products at any time. Regardless of how many pre-run assessments you do of your equipment or how well you think you maintain it. All parts could fail depending on how they are used or built. The simple fact is that all the parts are made with very little quality control checks in place and I really think the R&D done on some of this stuff leaves a lot to be desired. Hell, I'd be willing to bet much of the so called name brand stuff I've purchased off places like Amazon, ends up being counterfeit. Actually this just happened to me. I bought a set of HRB 4s 9500mAh lipos. I received them without too much fuss and the batteries appeared to check out. After a few uses I ended up having a problem with one of the cells and I called HRB to see what their 6 month warranty process was. They knew right away what batteries I had and advised me that they didn't make the batteries and they would not provide warranty on them. Not that I expected them to warranty a counterfeit product they didn't make. I contacted the seller of the items and they were quick to shoot me down and tell me I caused the problem witj the lipos. Lol They didn't even give me a chance to explain that I always balance charge, I never run my lipos to dangerous low levels, never get them wet etc etc. They blew me off and said they sold other people batteries and they are fine so it must of been a "me" problem. SMH.

Oh well stuff like that comes with the territory in this hobby. Most of the parts and products come from countries where counterfeiting is a large scale production.

Thanks again everyone on the welcoming to the community and I will keep everyone posted when I get notified from Castle. But on the flip side, my Kraton 8s now has a Max4 12S installed. way way over kill but damn it's sweet. The ESC really doesn't fit in the K8 all that well but she's in there and not going anywhere. I can't wait till the market catches up and people like Beverly from basher queen makes mounting plates for the Max4.

 

[Jon NC RC]

Thank you so much for the warm welcome guys / girls. I was really kind of worried about posting my xlx2 experience because I didn't want you all to think I jumped on to bash a brand. I wanted to be clear that I have been a supporter of Castle and really any other company that makes quality parts and gear. You're 100% correct though, no matter what brand we choose to run we all could experience failures with products at any time. Regardless of how many pre-run assessments you do of your equipment or how well you think you maintain it. All parts could fail depending on how they are used or built. The simple fact is that all the parts are made with very little quality control checks in place and I really think the R&D done on some of this stuff leaves a lot to be desired. Hell, I'd be willing to bet much of the so called name brand stuff I've purchased off places like Amazon, ends up being counterfeit. Actually this just happened to me. I bought a set of HRB 4s 9500mAh lipos. I received them without too much fuss and the batteries appeared to check out. After a few uses I ended up having a problem with one of the cells and I called HRB to see what their 6 month warranty process was. They knew right away what batteries I had and advised me that they didn't make the batteries and they would not provide warranty on them. Not that I expected them to warranty a counterfeit product they didn't make. I contacted the seller of the items and they were quick to shoot me down and tell me I caused the problem witj the lipos. Lol They didn't even give me a chance to explain that I always balance charge, I never run my lipos to dangerous low levels, never get them wet etc etc. They blew me off and said they sold other people batteries and they are fine so it must of been a "me" problem. SMH.

Oh well stuff like that comes with the territory in this hobby. Most of the parts and products come from countries where counterfeiting is a large scale production.

Thanks again everyone on the welcoming to the community and I will keep everyone posted when I get notified from Castle. But on the flip side, my Kraton 8s now has a Max4 12S installed. way way over kill but damn it's sweet. The ESC really doesn't fit in the K8 all that well but she's in there and not going anywhere. I can't wait till the market catches up and people like Beverly from basher queen makes mounting plates for the Max4.

That's why I scan posts relating trends of good or bad experience with a product......

Everyone makes an occasional lemon, but something that typically causes problems or typically works well is good to know.

And yes, counterfeits

One thing I have always enjoyed about AF is that there are very few radical extreme " my way is right - everyone else has to be wrong" kind of people here.

The vast majority is just people who want to learn, share, and have fun

 

[Armarookie43]

I'm not new to RC. I always check temps and run though my list of safety checks before and after each run. I'm not drag racing or doing any hard bashing. Like that should make a difference. But yes QS8 connectors were used.
Your right there is warranty but does that cover the other aspects of a mess that the burnt ESC left my RC in? Replace bodies, paint jobs, internal parts / plastic that melted and oh yeah, a new set of batteries? I'm not trying to be a smart ass or anything. I'm asking cause I really don't know. I assume I will be told that if there's no other issues found or things that can be blamed for the ESC catching on fire then castle will replace the xlx2 so I can possibly go through this issue again.
I've been building and running RC's for years and have had many kinds of electronics installed over the years. However, I've never gone through anything like this before. Even with components that some people would call "lesser of quality", they all worked fairly well for me. Yes I've had parts fail but I've never had massive destruction of an RC because an RC caught fire.
I don't know but to me there could be a million and one excuses made as to why it burnt up. I guess even down to the type of solder used when the connectors were installed. But to me and others that have gone through it, the fire issue with these esc's is a very real problem.

What gearing were you using? What batteries? The worst thing for me so far that has happened with both my XLX2 has been the bullets coming off the board completely on the battery side after months of crazy crashes, lots of 26ft high jumps, and stuff like that. I guess I've been lucky. Castle did hint that 35/47 and 30/39 gearing were "very aggressive" and that the data showed 500 plus amp spikes regularly. So he blamed my soldering job and mentioned the gearing. So I went to 30/47 gearing with better soldering and I've only seen 300 amp spikes. My batteries getting too hot with my almost 100F weather has been noted, and hopefully, after resetting one of my new XLX2 from Castle with my PC, maybe the "radio glitch" issue goes away. The other XLX2 has been fine after like two runs. Same results with the data and batteries.

 

[Matt05]

Well add me to the list of crispy xlx2s. Running in my Kraton 8sexB with 1100kv, 34/47 gearing and hoovo 9200mah batteries. Was just running around in the yard, wheelied a little too hard and it ended up on it’s lid. Went to retrieve it and before I made it half way I heard the poof and saw the flame. Unsoldered the negative on one of my batteries, and burned up the wiring to my motor fan. Had to leave for work this morning so I didn’t get a ton of time to fully go over the damage. It could have been much worse, but it still sucks. Wish I would have ordered a spare when tower had them on sale a week or two ago.

 

[Armarookie43]

Well add me to the list of crispy xlx2s. Running in my Kraton 8sexB with 1100kv, 34/47 gearing and hoovo 9200mah batteries. Was just running around in the yard, wheelied a little too hard and it ended up on it’s lid. Went to retrieve it and before I made it half way I heard the poof and saw the flame. Unsoldered the negative on one of my batteries, and burned up the wiring to my motor fan. Had to leave for work this morning so I didn’t get a ton of time to fully go over the damage. It could have been much worse, but it still sucks. Wish I would have ordered a spare when tower had them on sale a week or two ago.

Not giving Castle a break here, but I had Hovoo batteries come unsoldered from the internal solder, which is not repairable (I tried). Or are you talking about the connector? What connectors are you using?

 

[jkflow]

So is this an xlx defect or just the battery? I wouldn't touch hoovoo or other no name brands with a 10ft pole when it comes to the xlx. It e ceeds the capability of those inferior brands. Pull the log and see how much the current was.

 

[Matt05]

It very well could be the battery. I’m using qs8 connectors on everything. The negative came unsoldered right at the pack.

So is this an xlx defect or just the battery? I wouldn't touch hoovoo or other no name brands with a 10ft pole when it comes to the xlx. It e ceeds the capability of those inferior brands. Pull the log and see how much the current was.

I thought Hoovos were supposed to be a half ways decent battery? I’m really having a tough time picking batteries. I have a set of CNHL batteries I typically use in my Kraton and these in my Outcast (CNHL are too big for that truck)

I debated ordering a set of smc’s to replace these hoovos but they seem to be hit and miss. Powerhobbies are also an option but again they seem to be hit and miss.

I’m a few hours away from my stuff at the moment but when I get back I will see if I can’t dig into the situation further.

 

[RCbuzz]

If you had poof and a flame out of the ESC I am assuming that XLX2 has gone to dead short.

That type of current would de-solder just about anything.

 

[Armarookie43]

It very well could be the battery. I’m using qs8 connectors on everything. The negative came unsoldered right at the pack.



I thought Hoovos were supposed to be a half ways decent battery? I’m really having a tough time picking batteries. I have a set of CNHL batteries I typically use in my Kraton and these in my Outcast (CNHL are too big for that truck)

I debated ordering a set of smc’s to replace these hoovos but they seem to be hit and miss. Powerhobbies are also an option but again they seem to be hit and miss.

I’m a few hours away from my stuff at the moment but when I get back I will see if I can’t dig into the situation further.

My powerhobby 4s graphene 8000mah 120C HV batteries have been working well for me. They just get very hot when it's hot outside, but I've noticed that with all my rigs when it's almost 100F outside. Furthermore, 35/47 gearing for me personally (which is only a tooth less than your set up), was causing 500A spikes, which is nothing a good thing. 30/47 gearing has been working better for me so far (I've only seen a few 300A spikes so far). I've had SMC batteries come unsoldered from the inside just like the Hoovo batteries. No problems like that with the hardcased powerhobby ones.

 

[Matt05]

My powerhobby 4s graphene 8000mah 120C HV batteries have been working well for me. They just get very hot when it's hot outside, but I've noticed that with all my rigs when it's almost 100F outside. Furthermore, 35/47 gearing for me personally (which is only a tooth less than your set up), was causing 500A spikes, which is nothing a good thing. 30/47 gearing has been working better for me so far (I've only seen a few 300A spikes so far). I've had SMC batteries come unsoldered from the inside just like the Hoovo batteries. No problems like that with the hardcased powerhobby ones.

I think I will grab a set of them and probably gear my outcast with a max5/980kv down to like 28/39 and take the 30 from that build and put on my Kraton with the 47 spur. I’m also contemplating picking up a max5 to put in place of the xlx2 while I wait for the warranty process. How did you Castle 1100kv like working with the Max5?

 

[jkflow]

It sounds like the Lipo might be the weak link and your xlx2 is just fine. Try powering on with a 3s or something low power. Do it outside, just in case.

SMC is a very stable brand. CNHL, stay above 90C and quality is stable.
Hoovoo etc are all hit or miss between batches. Gens are good as well. Long topic and can't list em all.

 

[Matt05]

It sounds like the Lipo might be the weak link and your xlx2 is just fine. Try powering on with a 3s or something low power. Do it outside, just in case.

SMC is a very stable brand. CNHL, stay above 90C and quality is stable.
Hoovoo etc are all hit or miss between batches. Gens are good as well. Long topic and can't list em all.

I trust your guys’ opinions way more than my own, and the battery very well could be the weak link… but I don’t think I’m going to get too many more good runs out of the xlx2.

 

[jkflow]

Yup its toast, didn't get that from your posts as you only mentioned the battery.

 

[Matt05]

Yup its toast, didn't get that from your posts as you only mentioned the battery.

Haha yeah for some reason I didn’t include that part. Not sure why I brain farted there. Do I need to worry about the motor as well in your opinion?

 

[jkflow]

Motor should be fine.

 

[Armarookie43]

I think I will grab a set of them and probably gear my outcast with a max5/980kv down to like 28/39 and take the 30 from that build and put on my Kraton with the 47 spur. I’m also contemplating picking up a max5 to put in place of the xlx2 while I wait for the warranty process. How did you Castle 1100kv like working with the Max5?

It didn't like it. Honestly, that motor is a bit too much for the Max 5 with adapters. What messed me up is that I used adapters (8mm to 6.5mm) so that created so much resistance that my Max 5 motor side bullet got de soldered from the board. It's a PITA to remove the wires from the Castle motor too. My LHS couldn't do it. I guess their soldering iron doesn't get hot enough. Neither does my small one. The proper way to do it, would be to remove the Castle motor wires and solder up some 6.5mm wires. Or remove the 8mm bullets at the end an solder some 6.5mm bullets. Too much trouble for something temporary TBH. Once you gear down, go ahead and check your logs and temps. That's the only way you know for sure you'll have long term success.

I trust your guys’ opinions way more than my own, and the battery very well could be the weak link… but I don’t think I’m going to get too many more good runs out of the xlx2.

View attachment 228194

Do not tell them that you used 35/47 gearing. Tell them 30/47 or less. They are going to check the logs. If they see something they don't like, they charge you like $175 for a replacement. They blamed my bullet on the battery side coming desoldered because of poor soldering job on my QS8 connectors (I honestly don't buy that) and tall gearing (35/47 and 30/39). And my bullet just came off. Yours on the motor de side looks way worse. Damn.

 

[Armarookie43]

When

Haha yeah for some reason I didn’t include that part. Not sure why I brain farted there. Do I need to worry about the motor as well in your opinion?

When you get your new XLX2, always doubled check your QS8 connectors and the bullets that go from the motor to the ESC. I've noticed that after one run, sometimes those bullets and connectors can get a bit loose. Even if it's only a little bit, that creates an incredible amount of heat and resistance. I use a medium sized Phillips screw driver to open those connections evenly after almost every run. They have to be opened evenly and slowly. I've opened them up incorrectly before, and that messes them up too. Yeah the XLX2 and their big motors need TLC after a bash to keep thing going along fine. You can't mess up because of the crazy amount of current (in my case sometimes 300A and up to 12HP) going through the system.

 

[Matt05]

It didn't like it. Honestly, that motor is a bit too much for the Max 5 with adapters. What messed me up is that I used adapters (8mm to 6.5mm) so that created so much resistance that my Max 5 motor side bullet got de soldered from the board. It's a PITA to remove the wires from the Castle motor too. My LHS couldn't do it. I guess their soldering iron doesn't get hot enough. Neither does my small one. The proper way to do it, would be to remove the Castle motor wires and solder up some 6.5mm wires. Or remove the 8mm bullets at the end an solder some 6.5mm bullets. Too much trouble for something temporary TBH. Once you gear down, go ahead and check your logs and temps. That's the only way you know for sure you'll have long term success.

Do not tell them that you used 35/47 gearing. Tell them 30/47 or less. They are going to check the logs. If they see something they don't like, they charge you like $175 for a replacement. They blamed my bullet on the battery side coming desoldered because of poor soldering job on my QS8 connectors (I honestly don't buy that) and tall gearing (35/47 and 30/39). And my bullet just came off. Yours on the motor de side looks way worse. Damn.

Well I guess using a max5 as a spare isn’t my best option. I already filled out the warranty form and told them the gearing, but I guess
I could say I fat fingered a 4 instead of a 0.

They can’t really blame soldering on me on this one, I bought it from Radio Control Power with the qs8 harness attached (great company to deal with).

I will have to start going over the connections like you do in between runs. I’ve honestly done very little with it besides rip around. No major jumps or anything so I’m a bit disappointed.

Once I get home and get time to fully assess the damage I will update my build thread to stop mucking up this one.

 

[Armarookie43]

Well I guess using a max5 as a spare isn’t my best option. I already filled out the warranty form and told them the gearing, but I guess
I could say I fat fingered a 4 instead of a 0.

They can’t really blame soldering on me on this one, I bought it from Radio Control Power with the qs8 harness attached (great company to deal with).

I will have to start going over the connections like you do in between runs. I’ve honestly done very little with it besides rip around. No major jumps or anything so I’m a bit disappointed.

Once I get home and get time to fully assess the damage I will update my build thread to stop mucking up this one.

Oh don't worry about posting over here. Go ahead and keep posting. I don't mind at all. I want to hear that you don't have any further issues. I've ran my rigs around 3 or 4 times each, including a couple of hardcore construction bashes with just the batteries getting too hot with 30/47 gearing so it's looking promising. I'm also checking the logs and connections like I mentioned before. And my temps. I didn't check anything for months honestly. Not even temps, which is crazy.

 

[Toothless]

Add me to the list, was running 32-39 and motor temps where hitting 170 at the end of my run. ordered the PPS motor mount and went to 32-47, on the 3rd blip of the throttle walking to my spot, the car just stopped and before I realized what was wrong it was on fire !

Lost the body and a Battery because I pulled a lead wire out of it trying to get it disconnected.... have'nt looked at my radio yet, but at the end of the deal it was about 8ft away on the concrete ! lols