Castle XLX2 newb questions

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Dan B.

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I finally bit the bullet and went the XLX2 route. This will be in a scratch built 325mm SWB speed car.
I‘ve taken the advice of many (especially @Diem Turner and @LibertyMKiii , thanks so much for your knowledge) who’ve patiently explained the many reasons to go with this ESC. I do have a couple of questions though.
1. How necessary is it to run a cap pack? I do have an 8s Ripple Killer pack I was planning to incorporate but I’ve heard some say it isn’t really necessary with an XLX2. Bear in mind that this car will be pretty much maxed out at 150mph, so I’m not chasing records.
2. The Castle bluetooth link works with iOS through their ap, but this does not support the data logging? Is there a way with the regular (wired) Castle Link to use an iOS platform to run the data logs, or am I relegated to using a windows platform?
I‘ve found the answers to most of my questions on this setup from this, the best community forum ever, but I’m sure more questions will arise as I cut my teeth in the Castle World and with speed running in general.
Again, thanks for the help!
 
I finally bit the bullet and went the XLX2 route. This will be in a scratch built 325mm SWB speed car.
I‘ve taken the advice of many (especially @Diem Turner and @LibertyMKiii , thanks so much for your knowledge) who’ve patiently explained the many reasons to go with this ESC. I do have a couple of questions though.
1. How necessary is it to run a cap pack? I do have an 8s Ripple Killer pack I was planning to incorporate but I’ve heard some say it isn’t really necessary with an XLX2. Bear in mind that this car will be pretty much maxed out at 150mph, so I’m not chasing records.
2. The Castle bluetooth link works with iOS through their ap, but this does not support the data logging? Is there a way with the regular (wired) Castle Link to use an iOS platform to run the data logs, or am I relegated to using a windows platform?
I‘ve found the answers to most of my questions on this setup from this, the best community forum ever, but I’m sure more questions will arise as I cut my teeth in the Castle World and with speed running in general.
Again, thanks for the help!
I can only answer your first question since I have no experience running the BLink or castle software on iOS. It’s not necessary to run a cap pack with the xlx2. The ripple is already so low hence the reason you don’t see people using them.
 
I can only answer your first question since I have no experience running the BLink or castle software on iOS. It’s not necessary to run a cap pack with the xlx2. The ripple is already so low hence the reason you don’t see people using them.
That’s what I’ve heard, but I do still see a fair number of folks who have them. At this point I’m inclined to not run one. I think the fewer solder joints the better, especially if it’s not necessary.
 
That’s what I’ve heard, but I do still see a fair number of folks who have them. At this point I’m inclined to not run one. I think the fewer solder joints the better, especially if it’s not necessary.
Just slap some QS8’s on and run it. You’ll be just fine. Always check your logs anyways. Ripple is so low I barely even bother looking at it anymore.
 
Affirmative, I will be running QS8‘s. I’m trying hard to get most of this right the first time to avoid the further hemorrhaging of my already reeling bank account. I haven’t even bought the freaking batteries yet…
 
Affirmative, I will be running QS8‘s. I’m trying hard to get most of this right the first time to avoid the further hemorrhaging of my already reeling bank account. I haven’t even bought the freaking batteries yet…
Better set some more money aside for gears, tires, bearings, etc. Speed running adds up quick. Even more so when you crash. Ask me how I know. 🤣
 
I’ve been amassing a pile of gears and tires, I have a full set of ceramic bearings going into the build and one full set as a spare. I wish not to speak of the (inevitable) crash. There will be profanity…
 
Blink does datalogging.. but it's way more complicated than using a laptop.

Edit I have a android tho. Unsure on apple.

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No idea on iOS, I'm not aware of a package for downloading.
BT Adapter - only use it for looking at data, it is very flaky when settings being changed to the degree of rendering the ESC useless until a re-flash occurs (Windows). Seen this happen twice now with a friend.
Cap pack - throw it in a corner for now. You have to get your guidance from the data log. If that ripple is too high, you can start adding stuff and see if it actually makes a difference. You want to be able to observe changes, that is the entire reason for data logging. You might find that the cap pack does nothing for you, and you will never know.
This is very individual to each setup, lipo etc i.e. you can't rely on the internet and need to become self-sufficient. Plus, you don't even know if your cap pack is any good to begin with.
 
FWIW, I only have a cap pack in my car because I have one laying around from my MMX8S days and because I have enough real estate. Not because I need it. If (more like when) I break the XLX2 I'm using now, I won't be soldering pigtails to the next one.
I haven't used the B-link myself, but from everything I've seen I would definitely go with the normal USB link or programming card to hook it up to a PC/laptop. I find the app to be sub par compared to the CastleLink program for the kah-puh-tah in terms of: what am I looking at? Being able to compare and reference multiple data points to one another. Scrolling and zooming to get a better look at things. But that's just me personally. I've always been a desktop computer kinda guy.
 
I’ve been amassing a pile of gears and tires, I have a full set of ceramic bearings going into the build and one full set as a spare. I wish not to speak of the (inevitable) crash. There will be profanity…
Save your money on those ceramic bearings. They can't handle the abuse of speed running like SS can. Ceramics are good for motors and maybe the spool bearings. You'll be doing a lot of bearing changes and the ceramics are gonna get expensive VERY fast. I've had some good conversations will some faster folks than me and they all say to stick with SS.
 
Save your money on those ceramic bearings. They can't handle the abuse of speed running like SS can. Ceramics are good for motors and maybe the spool bearings. You'll be doing a lot of bearing changes and the ceramics are gonna get expensive VERY fast. I've had some good conversations will some faster folks than me and they all say to stick with SS.
Yeah, that's what I keep hearing as well. Once my ceramics are done for, I'll be going to SS as well and just buy in bulk.
 
I’ve been amassing a pile of gears and tires, I have a full set of ceramic bearings going into the build and one full set as a spare. I wish not to speak of the (inevitable) crash. There will be profanity…
Are you doing a build thread on car???I might be able to help ya save some $ on some things...I'm a cheap-skate,an have built a few swb rides on the cheap-cheap.esc-motor-packs are where ya don't go cheap,I've learned to go fast for cheap.lol
 
Personally, I love my B links. I think I have at least 15 of them at this point. Every once in a while, I'll have problems connecting to one but for the most part I feel like I can't live without them. Especially in rigs where I swap between 6s and 8s as I need to change the lvc cutoff and I'll be damned if I'm connecting it to my pc every time, I want to do that lol.

I've only tried the data logging once on the app and it worked fine but the updated app with data logging has an LVC cutoff bug where you can no longer set LVC higher than 3.5 and thats more important to me than data logging so I downgraded app lol.

B link is basically an auto buy for me every time I get a castle esc I have to add another 54$ to the price. Kinda sucks tbh, should be built in.
 
Personally, I love my B links. I think I have at least 15 of them at this point. Every once in a while, I'll have problems connecting to one but for the most part I feel like I can't live without them. Especially in rigs where I swap between 6s and 8s as I need to change the lvc cutoff and I'll be damned if I'm connecting it to my pc every time, I want to do that lol.

I've only tried the data logging once on the app and it worked fine but the updated app with data logging has an LVC cutoff bug where you can no longer set LVC higher than 3.5 and thats more important to me than data logging so I downgraded app lol.

B link is basically an auto buy for me every time I get a castle esc I have to add another 54$ to the price. Kinda sucks tbh, should be built in.
I just turn LVC off altogether (speed running Top Gear: Top Tip). I monitor voltage on my transmitter. :)
 
Save your money on those ceramic bearings. They can't handle the abuse of speed running like SS can. Ceramics are good for motors and maybe the spool bearings. You'll be doing a lot of bearing changes and the ceramics are gonna get expensive VERY fast. I've had some good conversations will some faster folks than me and they all say to stick with SS.
Ok then, surprised to hear this. I was going for that groovy, lightly oiled ceramic hybrid vibe that lets the car roll like it was in a vacuum. How many individual runs do you get on one set of bearings? Don’t tell me one… And again, I’ll be running up to 150 gradually if utter disaster doesn’t occur first. I won’t be pushing 180 or more with this thing. This is my first rodeo, feel free to laugh at me as we go.
Are you doing a build thread on car???I might be able to help ya save some $ on some things...I'm a cheap-skate,an have built a few swb rides on the cheap-cheap.esc-motor-packs are where ya don't go cheap,I've learned to go fast for cheap.lol
Too late!!! Jeez man, I’ve been laying in parts for 3 months now for this build. Yes, I’ll be doing a build thread, so please follow and make any and all recommendations that might save me a buck. My bank account (and my marriage) will thank you!
 
Ok then, surprised to hear this. I was going for that groovy, lightly oiled ceramic hybrid vibe that lets the car roll like it was in a vacuum. How many individual runs do you get on one set of bearings? Don’t tell me one… And again, I’ll be running up to 150 gradually if utter disaster doesn’t occur first. I won’t be pushing 180 or more with this thing. This is my first rodeo, feel free to laugh at me as we go.

Too late!!! Jeez man, I’ve been laying in parts for 3 months now for this build. Yes, I’ll be doing a build thread, so please follow and make any and all recommendations that might save me a buck. My bank account (and my marriage) will thank you!
You'll be fine with ceramics for a good while. I've taken mine to 120+ (nearly 130) quite a number of times and they're still fine. From what I've observed it's when you start pushing past 150 that you start getting into high wear territory and need to start swapping bearings more frequently. It's primarily the diff input bearings that suffer the most, but definitely start increasing the frequency of your maintenance as you go up in speed.
 
Personally, I love my B links. I think I have at least 15 of them at this point. Every once in a while, I'll have problems connecting to one but for the most part I feel like I can't live without them. Especially in rigs where I swap between 6s and 8s as I need to change the lvc cutoff and I'll be damned if I'm connecting it to my pc every time, I want to do that lol.

I've only tried the data logging once on the app and it worked fine but the updated app with data logging has an LVC cutoff bug where you can no longer set LVC higher than 3.5 and thats more important to me than data logging so I downgraded app lol.

B link is basically an auto buy for me every time I get a castle esc I have to add another 54$ to the price. Kinda sucks tbh, should be built in.
Are you using the iOS ap for your B link?
What a long, strange trip this will be.
 
Ok then, surprised to hear this. I was going for that groovy, lightly oiled ceramic hybrid vibe that lets the car roll like it was in a vacuum. How many individual runs do you get on one set of bearings? Don’t tell me one… And again, I’ll be running up to 150 gradually if utter disaster doesn’t occur first. I won’t be pushing 180 or more with this thing. This is my first rodeo, feel free to laugh at me as we go.

Too late!!! Jeez man, I’ve been laying in parts for 3 months now for this build. Yes, I’ll be doing a build thread, so please follow and make any and all recommendations that might save me a buck. My bank account (and my marriage) will thank you!
Not a chance. We'll either be cheering you on, cheering with you as you reach each new milestone, or suffering with you in the agony of failure. There is no fourth option.
 
I just turn LVC off altogether (speed running Top Gear: Top Tip). I monitor voltage on my transmitter. :)

I only have like 2 speed runs to my name and I totally forgot to turn off LVC even though I knew that I should lol. The Radiolinks can actually monitor voltage but I need to do some soldering to get it to work. Been so lazy with that =(




@Dan B. Android, shouldn't be any different for IOS. In fact, I bet the IOS app is better than the android app. They came out with it first and us android users had to wait a long time before the android app was even released.
 
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